Restoration and Repair of the Front end Following the Wreck of "Calypso" a 69 Formula S 383 B7/B5 Fast Back

[1969383S]

Prices were not over the top!

The Front Clip was $125 and was a Just in case! A lot of the Metal on it can be purchased new and much will likely be wasted if used. For the Price I thought it was a good
Purchase, Considering my right front frame damage. Maybe a cut and insert plug square tube and some expert welding! Not My Cup of Tea But in reality I believe I could do it!

 

[1969383S]

Well no luck with Hodge Restorations or Jeremy Bishop @ Elite Customs! Decided to take the car to local shop here in Dawsonville, Cowarts Customs.

Russ said he can start in about 30 days or so, just get the car over hear so you are in line. His shop is about 20 minutes away. Told me to go ahead and remove the engine and trans but re-install the K-frame
and suspension. He will rack it and was not concerned about racking it before dissasembly. I can leave the car in the trailer at his shop.

So Started the rest of the strip down Today. Cleared out the Garage a bit and moved the car as far out as possible without dropping over the ledge. Brought the hose in and sprayed all the Dried Mud, and Compacted leaves and pine needles from underneath that I could! What a mess that was under there! I had already sprayed to kill all the ants that I scooped up! Got everything disconnected on the top side today while the floor was drying.
Mounted the Body Wheels and Lifting Jig to raise the car and drop the running gear out the bottom. Moved the car around to clean the floor all up and ready to dive under in the morning.
Need to unhook the exhaust, drive shaft, drain the Trans fluid, and all the other bits. Brother is comming over Saturday to help with the cart hook up and lift, and place the engine on the stand so we can pull what's left
of the oil pan and check for damage. Moving Foward at Last!

 

[67/6barracuda]

Glad to see you made progress on it and found a shop willing to do the work. You’re not far from AMD, did you check in with them?

 

[1969383S]

First thing this morning I reposistioned and put the car up on jack Stands. Started on the exhaust and grabbed the left side pipe and "OH ****" the driver side exhaust mainfold
flange is busted! Get the Phone and make a video for Hagarty! Wish I had know that at Carlisle!

 

[Mtrhead]

I sold Max Wedge a driver side manifold last year I don't know if he still has it but you might want to check with him

 

[1969383S]

After Todays Work and unfortunate discovery! I just have to unload the Suspension in the morning and slide the T-Bars out.

My back that was so aweful and I opted for an Ablation on both sides for L1 to S0 in December 2023 on my facet joints to kill the receptor nerves so far has been phenomenal!

I get tired and need some rest, but diving under the Fish has not Hurt me much so far! Amen!! The Damage be it light or heavy is scattered! Still lots of Dried Georgia Mud,Grass, Pine Needles and more
under the Body! Once I get the E and T out tomorrow, I will move it outside and give it a better wash prior to loading in the trailer!

 

[1969383S]

That Deep Heavy Duty MOROSO oil pan was destroyed by that oak stump! It at least took the lick to save it's sister Trans pans! It was ripped to Hell with a huge gash that dumped all the oil on impact!
I am very curious to see what, if any damage happened to the low end of the 383HP! Crossing my fingers all is ok and just the pickup is entangled! Told Hagarty there first look was too quick!

 

[1969383S]

Obviosly the body and all flexed hard enough for the Trans yoke to contact the trans tunnel!

 

[1969383S]

I put a Lot of Effort into reassembly of this car and today it almost seems that it was somewhat in waste! Or at a least for the last 11 years! I will admit that Calypso has held up well though.
Guess Once she is back on the road I will fell better!

 

[RustyRatRod]

Obviosly the body and all flexed hard enough for the Trans yoke to contact the trans tunnel!

View attachment 1716457220

It may have broken the transmission mount.

 

[1969383S]

It may have broken the transmission mount.

Nope, The Mount looks good Rusty, In fact all the seams except the tunnel to rear floor look great! This is what seems odd to me that I do not remember seeing in the past!

 

[RustyRatRod]

Nope, The Mount looks good Rusty, In fact all the seams except the tunnel to rear floor look great! This is what seem odd to me that I do not remember seeing in the past!View attachment 1716457242

I'm not familiar enough to know if that gap is normal or not. It would certainly seem to not be a good thing.

 

[1969383S]

Yea, the more I see, the More I am worried about the overal intgretiy of the car.

I will just move on and get it in smarter hands to see what the judgement is!

 

[1969383S]

I mapped the Engine\Trans and Rear Axle. They were all in line to Factory specs.

 

[340sFastback]

Nope, The Mount looks good Rusty, In fact all the seams except the tunnel to rear floor look great! This is what seems odd to me that I do not remember seeing in the past!View attachment 1716457242

My rear tunnel aera was sloppy like that from the factory. How sloppy mine was not sure cause my car was factory under coated. But even with the factory under coating there were gaps big enough water and dirt got in that void. The fit between the two panels on mine was not tight had gaps. When I put new one piece floor in mine had to work that tunnel a lot to get rid of the gaps. So I think its possible yours could have always been like that. Would be best to get those panels plug welded tight together then seam sealed. You'll gain a little rigidity and keep water dirt out. There are two smaller holes on back side toward axle of that void that don't get body plugs so void can breath. I cavity waxed void after I put new floor in mine.....

 

[340sFastback]

Check that rear tunnel area with the gaps for signs of spot welds. If I remember correctly those two panels aren't spot welded together from the factory in the tunnel area.

 

[1969383S]

Got Everything apart and the oil pan off the motor. it is smashed like a pancake! The Pickup tube is smashed all up in it! The windage tray is bent and looks line one or two rods made
very slight impact with it. The motor barred over fine once off. I now had access to the TQ bolts and could remove the trans. So the Trans is on my Tranny jack and the Motor is on the
New stand I purchased. We went ahead and re-installed the K-Frame. I just need to re-install the steering column, re-attach the upper ball joints to the spindles, Brake lines and Torsion bars.
Then slip the bushings and nuts back on the top of the shocks. @rlcbit offered up a set of good looking manifolds and assume he does not want to break up a set.

 

[1969383S]

Photos Attached, Will need to remove the remainer of the pick tube from the block!

 

[1969383S]

Motor is still nice and clean on the inside for 11 years since resto! No sight of any sludge anywhere! Valvoline VR-1 High Zinc

 

[jrc4y4]

Sorry to see the thing damaged. Will be interesting to see once they get it on the rack and inspected. Good luck on the re-rebuild and thanks for sharing.

 

[1969383S]

Nope, The Mount looks good Rusty, In fact all the seams except the tunnel to rear floor look great! This is what seems odd to me that I do not remember seeing in the past!View attachment 1716457242

I went through Every one of my restoration pictures from 2012 to 2014 and not one of them have this particular angle. I am talking about Hundreds and Hundreds of Pic's! From tear down to getting the body
home from Hodge Restorations! Some of them OHH so close but just not! I am going to assume that due to the fact there is no seam sealer here and that it is the normal primer type/overspray color seen on Factory
examples of non undercoated cars it is normal! I am 100% sure Le Hodge would not have missed this detail. The Stump obviosly hit hard on the driver side and was surely the reason the Exhaust manifold flange
broke off on that side. That is right where the drive shaft is all marked up as well, just ahead of the muffler. I even remember RRR saying "You Are Getting a Brand New Car Back in 2014"

 

[A56]

Well no luck with Hodge Restorations or Jeremy Bishop @ Elite Customs! Decided to take the car to local shop here in Dawsonville, Cowarts Customs.

Russ said he can start in about 30 days or so, just get the car over hear so you are in line. His shop is about 20 minutes away. Told me to go ahead and remove the engine and trans but re-install the K-frame
and suspension. He will rack it and was not concerned about racking it before dissasembly. I can leave the car in the trailer at his shop.

So Started the rest of the strip down Today. Cleared out the Garage a bit and moved the car as far out as possible without dropping over the ledge. Brought the hose in and sprayed all the Dried Mud, and Compacted leaves and pine needles from underneath that I could! What a mess that was under there! I had already sprayed to kill all the ants that I scooped up! Got everything disconnected on the top side today while the floor was drying.
Mounted the Body Wheels and Lifting Jig to raise the car and drop the running gear out the bottom. Moved the car around to clean the floor all up and ready to dive under in the morning.
Need to unhook the exhaust, drive shaft, drain the Trans fluid, and all the other bits. Brother is comming over Saturday to help with the cart hook up and lift, and place the engine on the stand so we can pull what's left
of the oil pan and check for damage. Moving Foward at Last!

View attachment 1716456840

View attachment 1716456841

View attachment 1716456842

Was Hodges all booked up?

 

[340sFastback]

Your gonna wanna close up the gaps in that tunnel.and plug weld it tight together. Then seam seal it and make sure any debris hung up in cavity is cleaned out and cavity is treated to prevent corrosion. You dont wanna be driving down road having bunch of dirt rocks ect getting in that cavity collecting over time holding moisture in there....

Like I said earlier mine had gaps in tunnel from the factory, bunch of debri was inside holding moisture, and rotted out that lower pan in both corners on mine which I had to cut out and butt weld in new metal.

 

[RustyRatRod]

It sure as heck flattened that oil pan!

 

[mygasser]

with parts like factory manifolds being more scarce here in the uk i'd repair that flange. cast iron will mig weld ok and with an 'L' bracket that went up the manifold from the broken parts bolt hole welded in place and even a flat plate matching the gasket welded to the existing flange it's be just fine.
neil.