Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
Totally cool thread, don't know how I missed it before. Subscribed!
Restoration of Tom Myl's 1968 Super Stock BO29 Hemi Barracuda
- Thread starter davescuda
- Start date
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my vote....and who says you can only have the first one once?
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
HemiDenny...that Duster in your sig, upper left...you have a full-sized pic of that one?
I like the first 3 paint jobs.
But Tony is still up in the air about color. Tony even mention doing it a solid color at one time. Its up to him. I know Tom Myl is pushing for the red (wants that name on the door). I wish we Had more picture of the blue because I think that one has some heavy metal flake in it. I think it looks better in person. Plus it's the first one. But Tom is not giving Tony any more pictures of the blue one.
Plus the Blue one says on it "1967 NHRA Notional Champion on it".
That red is going cost some good money. Its was a candy with all that air brushing and gold leaf. Not Cheap!
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
It's been a long time since I worked with gold leaf. It really wasn't that expensive to use. The last time I checked it still wasn't that bad. It's actually easy to do too.
Once you've drawn out the lettering you apply adhesive and then pat the sheets of gold on top. You gently brush away the excess and pinstripe around the edges. It's not applied with one large sheet but rather with several small ones. It would be a nightmare to attempt to do it with a large sheet. Applying a clear coat over isn't mandatory but I'd recommend it.
Some of the stuff sold today is imitation and is made from brass. You HAVE to apply a clear coat over the imitation to keep it from tarnishing.
The heavy metalflake probably wouldn't be any cheaper than the candy.
Once you've drawn out the lettering you apply adhesive and then pat the sheets of gold on top. You gently brush away the excess and pinstripe around the edges. It's not applied with one large sheet but rather with several small ones. It would be a nightmare to attempt to do it with a large sheet. Applying a clear coat over isn't mandatory but I'd recommend it.
Some of the stuff sold today is imitation and is made from brass. You HAVE to apply a clear coat over the imitation to keep it from tarnishing.
The heavy metalflake probably wouldn't be any cheaper than the candy.
rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
Dave, is any of this cheap? I mean come on...
1967 'cuda
Dropped on Head as a Baby
It seems that no matter which paint scheme is chosen, the car will be awesome! Each of those themes is iconic. I guess it comes down to personal preference.
Captainkirk
Old School Mopar Warrior
I vote red, Dave!
I wonder if the mods can ad a poll to the top of the page, so we can see what color rules.
Red car or Blue car
If you can PM
Red car or Blue car
If you can PM
Old Man Mopar
Righteous Dude
All I can say is SWEEEET !!!!!
update
All body work done and wet sanded. All the black is painted.
The car is back home waiting to go to the painter to do the out side. I think Bucky Hess son is going to paint it. Not a lot of people over here do the old school paint
All body work done and wet sanded. All the black is painted.
The car is back home waiting to go to the painter to do the out side. I think Bucky Hess son is going to paint it. Not a lot of people over here do the old school paint
Tom Myl'e told Tony that everything was black except the back seat area and floor that should not be black, it should be reddish primer. Tony did not want to see prime where the rug ends. Thats the only change we did.
autoxcuda
Well-Known Member
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Any other corroboration of that other than his memory?
notes, pics, disassembly remnants on old car...?
Supposably he has pictures when he pick the car up at hurst. But we have not seen them yet. I think he is not letting all the picture out yet. He has bin right on with everything else. Even if some parts were primed, Tony was going to paint them black anyway. Remember we are doing the car the way Tom first raced it. Not how it was when Tom pick it up at Hurst. If we did that the car would not even have a hood.
zac_F71
Well-Known Member
AMAZING! what a transformation! One more vote for the Red -was the Chrysler approved color - - vote for the 550hp hemi - Also vote for doing 2 cars with the back half that came out of it.. have the museum car and the driver/racer (especially since you have more than 1 hemi..)
I know that was going to get somebody.
Thanks you
The color and engine still have not bin divided yet. The other barracuda not much left after cutting small pieces from it to fix the firewall and the inner fenders where the roll bar went through and what they welded up over the years.
Next is to make sure the K Frame fits before paint. We should have done this before it was painted black. All these years of racing these car took a lot of abuses. We know the car is good, just want to make sure the original K Frame is good.
I had somebody ask about the numbers on the car and fender tag. I went back and noticed I never showed pictures. Here is the Radiator support, the trunk gutter and the original fender tag.
Take a good look at the fender tag how it was riveted on. They use dash rivets, they did that back when it went to the fab shop. They did not want the fender tag to get stolen. How smart they were back in the day to do that. Tony is going to do the same thing.
Almost all these super stock cars the fender tag is missing or they have a repro tag on them. Also missing body numbers. That's what makes this car so SUPPER RARE WITH THE DOCUMENTATION FROM DAY ONE TO PRESENT AND THE ORIGINAL FENDER TAG AND ALL THE BODY NUMBERS!
Take a good look at the fender tag how it was riveted on. They use dash rivets, they did that back when it went to the fab shop. They did not want the fender tag to get stolen. How smart they were back in the day to do that. Tony is going to do the same thing.
Almost all these super stock cars the fender tag is missing or they have a repro tag on them. Also missing body numbers. That's what makes this car so SUPPER RARE WITH THE DOCUMENTATION FROM DAY ONE TO PRESENT AND THE ORIGINAL FENDER TAG AND ALL THE BODY NUMBERS!
liteweight
Active Member
here's a pic of a brand new LO23 Dart . Shows that THIS car was all grey primer. I believe they were all delivered this way, then the owners did what they wanted after the fact. Is there a correct or incorrect way of restoring these cars?. Not in my mind anyway. Pick a period the car represents, then go for it.
That was someones great foresight in riveting the fender tag, & to use dash rivets, great idea. I riveted my fender tag but only one side to deter someone with a Phillips screw driver in they're pocket from collecting a memento when it's parked somewhere. My LO23 still wears all it's original ID's also.
Tom's car was an early build? did he receive a hood with it when new? Mine is early & did not. The hood was sent later
Thanx for the updates Dave. Looks great.
liteweight
That was someones great foresight in riveting the fender tag, & to use dash rivets, great idea. I riveted my fender tag but only one side to deter someone with a Phillips screw driver in they're pocket from collecting a memento when it's parked somewhere. My LO23 still wears all it's original ID's also.
Tom's car was an early build? did he receive a hood with it when new? Mine is early & did not. The hood was sent later
Thanx for the updates Dave. Looks great.
liteweight
When Tom pick up the car there was no hood, they had to ship the hood to him later.
Yes, you are most likely correct on the primer but that's not the look we are looking for. We want the look when it was done and race ready. The primer look is boring to use and the cars really where not finish in the eyes of Chrysler. Chrysler wanted the new owners to finish them. Other wise they would have painted them all.
I also thought the dash rivets on the render tag was smart and a great look.
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