THE ENGINE
I have rebuilt several engines, so I embarked on this one without hesitation. The block had the correct build date for the car and I sure had never been removed from the car prior to me removing the engine. I took extra precautions to insure I wasn’t personally responsible for it’s destruction. Perhaps overkill, but I double up on chains and only relax after the engine has been firmly attached to the engine stand. You have a boat anchor if the hoist/chains fail and the cast iron block impacts a concrete floor. Also a good idea to keep your kids, your pets and your feet clear if the unthinkable happens.
Removing the valve covers revealed sludge had accumulated …not unexpected from a 45 year old engine. (I guess this PO spent his oil change money on something else) I was dismayed to discover that a “mechanic” had failed to tighten three rocker arm shaft bolts on the driver side head. Two of them were backed out ¼”. I knew then the heads had been off sometime in the past and wondered what other surprises my mystery mechanic friend left.
All bolts, nuts, screws and washers were placed in several individual plastic zip lock baggies and labeled according to what part of the engine the hardware came from. Lucky I did this because three years would pass before re-assembling the engine. Detailed bagging like this saves a lot of time “finding” the right bolts for the intake manifold or water pump and etc. Also, I did
not take any bolts or other hardware to the engine machine shop to be degreased. The reason for this is because they dump all the hardware into a basket for cleaning, thus cancelling my efforts to keep them separated. And I know small parts are often lost this way…the machine shop included a timing plate from another customers engine with my stuff. So to insure you don’t loose vital small engine parts, clean them yourself with solvent and a wire wheel brush.
Almost three years after removing the engine, I took it to my trusted engine machine shop for a hot tank cleaning, a search for cracks in the block and heads and measuring for wear. I couldn’t believe my good luck….no cracks anywhere, cylinder wear was a maximum .005”, the pistons were good, (boring and buying domed pistons would have added almost $1000 to the overhaul cost.) and the rod and main journals on the crankshaft needed only a cleaning and standard size bearings.
Ah… but what to do about the cam that came out showing a lot pitting and who knows how far worn from the factory grind specs? I decided against new aftermarket cams and elected instead to have the original cam reground by Egge Machine Company in Santa Fe Springs, CA
http://www.egge.com/ or 1-800-866-3443
These folks know engines and you can talk to them about your particular engine with confidence. Log on to the Egge website, scroll down to the “Ask Bob” link and take a peek at few FAOs and you will see what I mean.
( note.. As it turns out I didn’t need them, but Egge was the only source I found for reproduction domed pistons for the 273 HP engine @ $428.00/8)
For some unknown reason the Egge catalog doesn’t list any 273 engine for Plymouth cars. But the both 180 and 235 HP 273 cubic inch engines are listed under Dodge cars.
I gave Egge the following information regarding the 273 HP camshaft:
The Chrysler part number for a 1965 273 4 barrel engine camshaft is 2465679
248 degree duration intake and exhaust
26 degree overlap
.415” lift intake .425” lift exhaust
The 2010 price to regrind my cam to these specs was $63.75
I ordered new solid lifters since the price was actually higher to regrind my old ones. ($12.00 each with new ones less than $7.00 each)) At the same time I ordered an engine assembly kit PKT550030 containing 6 quarts of break in oil and special lube used on the cam lobes during re-assembly.
After a through degreasing, the machine shop did surgery on the heads by installing hardened valve seats, new valve springs, 8 exhaust and 2 intake valves, new cam bearings and sent the patient back to me for reassembly.
Engine reassembly was uneventful with no unusual problems. It goes without saying that a factory service manual is an invaluable reference, especially concerning the engine. From timing marks to torque specs, this manual can save you a bundle of post-heartache.
Digital cameras are a quick and easy way to record before and after information. For example, I used the camera to record the position of the oil screen tube prior to removing it. An image showing the timing chain and alignment marks during assembly may come handy if there are timing issues at startup.
There has been much written about the unavailability of correct 273 head gaskets. The problem stems from the fact that the only head gaskets I found were the “one size fits all” for 273 to 360 engines. I believe the larger bore gaskets work fine on the 273, but I happened to find an NOS 2575038 engine rebuild gasket kit for a 1965 273 and used those head gaskets on my rebuild. The kit included new exhaust manifold gaskets with the heat shields and those are no longer available from aftermarket gasket makers.
Incidentally, engine gasket kits advertised as correct for 1964-69 273’s may not contain proper fitting gaskets. I know the front and rear rubber oil pan gaskets are different between a 65 and 65-69. 273. The little rubber tits that snap into the mounting holes on the pan are different in those years. So unless the gasket kit includes a couple of different versions, you may be forced to into other solutions. I don’t know, but the intake gaskets may not be the same either.
Anyway the engine was assembled, painted and installed back into the Barracuda in the spring of 2010. It wasn’t started for the first time until two years later in the spring of 2012. It took me two years to reassemble the rest of the car.
