rev limint on a 383

[danbud61]

I'm a 340 man and doing a project with a 383.
It's a 1967 with 905 heads bored 30 over with kb pistons with an edelbrock intake.

Can anyone tell me what kind of revs this baby can take?

 

[66dartman]

stock oiling system? I think for 6500 and up you may want to do some mods to the small 3/8 oil pump pickup tube hole. Maybe an external milodon pickup.
Stock crank and rods should be good for 7000 with good bolts on the rods and main studs. H beam rods would be good insurance.

 

[danbud61]

Stock crank, hi flo oil pump, not shure on the rods?

 

[Longgone]

Those 383`s wind up fast with their short stroke. I agree with Dartman, it`s good insurance to use quality rod bolts and studded mains. You might want to get a hi-volume oil pan to match that pump if you plan on lots of WOT passes. I`d say stay under 6500 rpm with a stock bottm end and you should be okay.

 

[danbud61]

Thanks for the info gents!

Dan:read2:

 

[furz4]

I had a friend who had one with prepped stock rods, balanced, hv oil pump with pick up mods, ported heads and mechanical cam that he red-lined at 7800 and would ocasionly see 8000, never had any problems except holding valve adjustment. Others are right on, it will rev like a small block and turn RPM's with stock componants the brand X could only dream about. Most stock 383 magnums would turn 6000 + easily. I colapased a lifter and bent a pushrod once in my 70 roadrunner with stock 383 when a missed shift reached 6300, lol.

 

[demon seed]

You didn't mention whether you're running a hydraulic cam and what kind of rocker arms, single springs and damperers or double springs also I think ya meant 906 or 915 heads. I suspect that if you're running hydraulic lifters you'll find that 6000 will be the top of the curve and anything after that you'll feel her "nose over". In other words the time it took to go from 5500 to 6000 is quicker than going from 6000 to 6500 at which point bet on valve float between 6500 and 7. You'll be safe at 6500 tho but you needant go that far.

Terry

 

[Guitar Jones]

Here's my take on it. The stock stuff with good rod bolts and main studs should be good to 7200 (with occasional forays to 7500) with a 1/2" hemi oil pick up tube and a deep pan with about 8 quarts of oil in it. The limiting factor is really the heads, cam and intake combo. If you really want to get serious with it the 3.38 stroke of the 383 will allow for 8000+ rpm's with good H beam rods, lightweight Ross or other aftermarket pistons and a Milodon external oiling system with a swinging pickup. You will of course need some big port heads like the Indy 440-1 cnc 325 heads or something similar with a matching intake, .700 lift solid roller, 2 1/8 header and a Dominator. I know it sounds radical but can't you just imagine the sound of a big block Mopar spinning 8500 in the water? You'll get a lot of attention with that.

 

[danbud61]

I think that demon seed is on the mark.

I's an hydraulic cam with the stock springs on the 906 heads.
Eventually the valves will float.

Dan

 

[68383GTS]

I turned mine with a stock oiling system all the time at 6800 and a few times at 7200 and never had any problems with it.I had the motor together for 10 years before I did a rebiuld.I rebuilt only because I turned it 7800 once and it was alittle to much for the stock oiling system.It held together just fine and still had great oil pressure.I was going to put the 383 in my Dart so I pulled the oil pan to check a few bearings first.I got the pan off and pulled the main bearings and a few rod bearings.They were alittle scorn good thing I checked.I done a full rebuild and now have a high volume pump and a 8 quart pan.

Jim