Rich Carb

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I dont appreciate being called derogatory names over a thread red, it shows you to have a chip on your shoulder.the infos good, now be a good boy
 
because on a performance related car its always total, never initial. why? because it doesnt matter.your gaining 65% spark advance running total and it will rev, initial is meaningless to me unless its a new engine being broken in.it causes no harm to your engine seting total and it is the proper procedure for a mildly modified car, why is initial so important to you?
 
mopar3762 said:
I dont appreciate being called derogatory names over a thread red, it shows you to have a chip on your shoulder.the infos good, now be a good boy
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i feel like an explanation on YOUR part is due since you feel you know more about timing than any posters in this thread. my remarks are inline with your being a bit pompous, especially for a newbie.

look, we are here to help each other. not to prove who knows the most. you started it off by telling people they are in left field and don't know what they are talking about. how come you are so right and you make ALL posters here including myself feel like we know nothing about timing? you haven't been here long enough to be that sarcastic.

if you want to help people, don't come off so arrogant.
 
both procedures were explained in detail red and it does seem to have helped burnt so buy a book and back off as you make no sense to me and your a sheep following adams footsteps. read fast red, im getting tired of this thread.
 
I was trying to help,its you who started all the crap,ask burnt if it works,Im not a know it all but appreciate you thinking I am
 
you didnt answer the last question on why the initial number is so important on a modified street car red...
 
mopar3762 said:
because on a performance related car its always total, never initial. why? because it doesnt matter.your gaining 65% spark advance running total and it will rev, initial is meaningless to me unless its a new engine being broken in.it causes no harm to your engine seting total and it is the proper procedure for a mildly modified car, why is initial so important to you?
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first off. you have a racecar setup. initial is important for off idle response as well as having as much initial without starter kickback. i stand behind adam with how his was setup. i know countless people that will backup what our opinions are. you obviously have something that works for YOU. what stall do you have? most streetable cars have 3000 or less stalls. btw, most mp performance distributors have about a 29* centrifugal curve which is horrible for performance. the slots need to be welded up.
 
just trying to help red,heres my duster thats for sale for $3500 just dont stand too close to adam if he should fart.
 
correct now add 65% to the spark timing running 35 degrees total ful advance in by 2000 and see what happens,more off the line response. refer to almost there thread by 69 charger in the racers forum.
 
seems to have perked his engine up no? lets see if he hits the 11s
 
starter kickback with 400 hp? haha and I dont have a race only advance curve, its all common sense. I run 13.5 to 1 with no problems whatsoever full advance in by 1800 using the blue spring
 
mopar3762 said:
starter kickback with 400 hp? haha and I dont have a race only advance curve, its all common sense. I run 13.5 to 1 with no problems whatsoever full advance in by 1800 using the blue spring
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if full advance is in by 1800, what is it at 950?
 
Im done with this thread and Ill end it by saying I have 10k total including the body in the whole dart which went 9.80s 1/4 with a simple gear change and the silver spring that brings full advance on at 1400 and launching at 3500 rpm.
 
its whats built into the distributor and the curve red. seems to work for those who try it.like I said just trying to help and I did have a $6000 454 nova that would blow your doors off.it went 10.90s but I blew the 10 bolt rear at the top end
 
gonna paint the rims on the duster body color and use the small dogdish caps if it dont sell.
 
mopar3762 said:
Im done with this thread and Ill end it by saying I have 10k total including the body in the whole dart which went 9.80s 1/4 with a simple gear change and the silver spring that brings full advance on at 1400 and launching at 3500 rpm.
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i read your setup in the 69 charger thread. you have a race setup. 4500 stall, transbrake, command center? you have a race engine that may get driven on the street. i am happy that you got your car done for that cheap. i have never said that you don't have a hard running car. but when you try to compare a RACE car to a car that has factory k/d linkage, maybe a hotter cam and carb, some people don't understand how the 2 connect. btw, alot of people here have performance engines that use intial/total.

i am done as well. you are now on the ignorant list, i mean the ignore list..........
 
stall is meaningless, you just dont comprehend what im saying,cya red,btw the duster looks as good as your barracuda
 
mopar3762 said:
its whats built into the distributor and the curve red. seems to work for those who try it.like I said just trying to help and I did have a $6000 454 nova that would blow your doors off.it went 10.90s but I blew the 10 bolt rear at the top end
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first off if you read my post, i have the msd setup with the no vac adv. dist. i did just like 69chrgr and put the black 18* bushing. and i have the light blue and light silver springs in it. unless yours is locked out, you HAVE initial timing.
i just got done with a 454 68 nova that would blow my doors off too. does it drive good on the street? no. too hot. breaks loose the rearend at a drop of a hat.

even chevy guys know to put a 12 bolt or ford 9" in with a bigblock and not blow a 10 bolt.
 
maybe i am confused .... just trying to understand your point ....here is my take on it...a vacuum advance unit only advances at high vacuum.... so your car is in retarted mode when starting becuase of no vacuum ....the total we all agree on i think, it is the fifty something that i am in need of understanding .... at road speed ( cruising ) you have some vacuum...causing the advance unit to engage..... tip into the throttle and the vacuum advance looses vacuum and retards... hard throttle it goes back to total advance 35 degrees .....my misunderstanding lies in the advantage of using a vacuum advance at all on a perf motor....
we all can learn if willing to listen ...just explain how the vac adv builds more power ,,, drivability yes but not power from what i can see ...please explain so we can all understand . I would like to know , and i am not starting a beef ...just trying to see your side. thanks
 
68gts340 said:
maybe i am confused .... just trying to understand your point ....here is my take on it...a vacuum advance unit only advances at high vacuum.... so your car is in retarted mode when starting becuase of no vacuum ....the total we all agree on i think, it is the fifty something that i am in need of understanding .... at road speed ( cruising ) you have some vacuum...causing the advance unit to engage..... tip into the throttle and the vacuum advance looses vacuum and retards... hard throttle it goes back to total advance 35 degrees .....my misunderstanding lies in the advantage of using a vacuum advance at all on a perf motor....
we all can learn if willing to listen ...just explain how the vac adv builds more power ,,, drivability yes but not power from what i can see ...please explain so we can all understand . I would like to know , and i am not starting a beef ...just trying to see your side. thanks
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i think you have it right. i don't know much on vacuum advance but that seems right. they work for higher vacuum producing engines for driveablility and fuel mileage, but are tuneable(at least stock ones are, msd aren't) i don't use vacuum advance on any performance cars i do.
 
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