Riddle me this...

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LivewireBlanco

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I am turning 3000 rpm at 65 mph. I measured my tire height at 24 inches, although discount tire says 25 online. My rear end is a 7 1/4 marked 2.76 on the outside. Shouldn't I be going a lot faster at that rpm? Could it be that the previous owner swapped gears in the rear end? Could it be the torque converter (it's stock rebuilt)?

Car is a 71 dart with 318 and 904 transmission. The transmission is a "new" rebuild from performance automatic and it shifts good and firm. Fluid in neutral is within the correct range on dipstick.
 
I was running an almost identical set-up, 7.25 with 2.76 gears, 318/904 and 235/65/14 tires and I was turning about 2500-2600 at 65. Stock converter, I'm assuming its an 1100 stall, your numbers sound like what I'm running now with 3.23s out back
 
Very simple to check rear end gear ratio. Jack rear wheels off the ground. Then put a mark on the drive shaft and a mark on the tire at the very bottom. Then turn the drive shat slowly until the wheel makes one full revolution (the mark will be back down at the bottom) while you are counting the revolutions of the drive shaft. So if the drive shaft turns 3.5 times to get the wheel to turn once, your ratio is about 3.5:1. Assuming the tranny is not slipping, I doubt you have 2.76 gears.
 
I am turning 3000 rpm at 65 mph. I measured my tire height at 24 inches, although discount tire says 25 online. My rear end is a 7 1/4 marked 2.76 on the outside. Shouldn't I be going a lot faster at that rpm? Could it be that the previous owner swapped gears in the rear end? Could it be the torque converter (it's stock rebuilt)?

Car is a 71 dart with 318 and 904 transmission. The transmission is a "new" rebuild from performance automatic and it shifts good and firm. Fluid in neutral is within the correct range on dipstick.
Yeah that doesn't sound right for that gearing at all. It almost sounds like you're in 2nd gear? Here's a question, can you just fog burn off at will with no problem? If yes then your gears are a lot lower than you think if no then something else is wrong.
 
Yeah that doesn't sound right for that gearing at all. It almost sounds like you're in 2nd gear? Here's a question, can you just fog burn off at will with no problem? If yes then your gears are a lot lower than you think if no then something else is wrong.
Yeah I can burn some rubber VERY easy with just a cam swap and 4 bbl carb. I also know for a fact it's in third cause I counted shifts to make sure. Brake stall is 1800.
 
Yeah I can burn some rubber VERY easy with just a cam swap and 4 bbl carb. I also know for a fact it's in third cause I counted shifts to make sure. Brake stall is 1800.
Okay well now the easy thing to do is to jack up the rear end and Mark your Driveline and chalk your wheel and see how many turns a Driveline takes as opposed to how many turns you get on the Wheel. likely you're going to get about 4 turns of your drive line before you get one turn of your wheel.
 
If you get two and three quarter turns that you're 276's. If you get three and a half turns that's 3: 55. If you get almost 4 turns that's 391's and if you get a little bit more than four turms that's four tens.
 
Gear ratio×MPHx336÷tire diameter equals RPM.

This does not factor in converter slippage for auto. Use formula backwards to calculate for any unknown variable.
 
65(mph)x336x3.23(gear ratio)÷24(tire diameter)=2939(rpm)

I would think you have 3.23 gears
 
65(mph)x336x3.23(gear ratio)÷24(tire diameter)=2939(rpm)

I would think you have 3.23 gears
I'm going to jack up the car like the others have said and count the revolutions of the driveshaft. If it turns 3 1/4 times you'll be the lucky winner. Actually I'll be the winner because I'll have 3.23 gears instead of 2.76!
 
I'm going to jack up the car like the others have said and count the revolutions of the driveshaft. If it turns 3 1/4 times you'll be the lucky winner. Actually I'll be the winner because I'll have 3.23 gears instead of 2.76!
Also are you getting a Sure Grip like I hate to say it, posi traction like both tires firing?
I would be trying to study and see if that is actually a seven and a quarter? If someone change the gears like that likely they did a little more..
 
What they ^ said...

Engine RPM Calculator | Spicer Parts


upload_2018-8-30_16-19-23.png
 
3000 rpm with 3.55s and a 25" tire is 63 mph.
I have the opposite issue in that my speedo is showing 50 mph running a 32 tooth speedo. It should be showing a higher speed than actuall mph.... mystery
 
Too many variables.
The tach could be out, or the speed-O. The rearend has not been proven, and the tire measurement has to be a roll-out measurement.
And the final variable would be the TC.
If the tire roll out is 77 inches, and the gear is a 2.76, then; the math says 65=2460 at zeroslip.
If the rpm of 3000 is correct, then the speed has to be 79mph with a 2.76 to satisfy zero slip.
If the roll-out is 77 and the gear truly is a 2.76, and both the tach and speed-O are correct, then the TC is slipping 540rpm or 22% which would be outrageous. I would expect 5% to be reasonable.
You can prove the speed-O by the fact that it takes exactly 1 minute to drive exactly 1 mile at 60 miles per hour. Run a 5-mile stretch and do the math. The percentage error in math equals the speed-O percentage error.
 
Very simple to check rear end gear ratio. Jack rear wheels off the ground. Then put a mark on the drive shaft and a mark on the tire at the very bottom. Then turn the drive shat slowly until the wheel makes one full revolution (the mark will be back down at the bottom) while you are counting the revolutions of the drive shaft. So if the drive shaft turns 3.5 times to get the wheel to turn once, your ratio is about 3.5:1. Assuming the tranny is not slipping, I doubt you have 2.76 gears.

This only works on "posi" LOL (limited slip) rear axles. If you jack up one wheel and it turns you do NOT have limited slip. No do the the above, only count shaft turns and turn the tire TWO full turns.

Also, I've bought several GPS units from C/L and local thrift stores. They make a cheap easy and ACCURATE speedo

I agree^^the tach could be off as well. You can actually check a tach by downloading some musical notes (tones) running your sound output through a low to high impedance transformer (to generate higher voltage) and using that to feed the tach trigger wire. You have to calculate the tone frequency to V8 trigger frequency

I posted a thread on this years ago, never find it now!!!
 
...................How to test a factory tach??

OK, Steve, here's what I came up with, and IT WORKS

You need

1 A laptop or even any computer with a sound card and analog output. Mine is pretty low level from my laptop (phones, not speaker) and it worked. Obviously you need basic software, which most computers come with to play sound files through the system.

2 A transformer to step up the voltage, some clip leads, and a cable to "get" the sound out of your computer

3 Some sound files which I easily found and downloaded. I easily found some that worked fine right here:

http://www.ronelmm.com/tones/

I also looked around and found a 440hz tone on the www

The tones translate thus:

That is, 100hz x 60 to get hz per minute, and divide by 4 to convert to V8 tach reading (V8's fire 4 times every crank rev)

100hz is 1500RPM

150hz is 2250RPM

250hz is 3750RPM

440hz is 6600RPM

500hz is 7500RPM




4 A small amount of math to convert the sound file frequency to V8 tach readings



In the top photo, I started out buying a Radio Shack audio transformer, not ideal, and the only one they had in stock. Part no 273-1380.

I also experimented with a "wall wort" you want one that is AC output, NOT DC output, and better the LOWEST voltage output if you have a choice. This one, second and third photos, is a relic from the thrift stores

The third photo shows all that there is for the wall wort. Once again, it MUST have AC not DC output. You hook the analog output of the sound card to the low voltage leads of the soundcard, in this case the USB dongle

The 120V AC plug is then hooked one lead to ground on the car, the other lead to the tach trigger wire, which MUST be unhooked from the coil/ ignition

Photo 4 shows the hookup for the RadShack audio transformer

The black and yellow clips at top, hooked to transformer white and red, come from the sound card.

The black lead of the transformer is the center tap, unused

Ground one secondary lead, and hook the other to the tach trigger (For this transformer, green and blue)

Then, just power up the tach, fire up a sound file, and crank up the volume. Turns out my tach reads "a little low" up above 3750RPM

By the way, that's not an ammeter you are looking at, but a voltmeter!!

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This only works on "posi" LOL (limited slip) rear axles. If you jack up one wheel and it turns you do NOT have limited slip. No do the the above, only count shaft turns and turn the tire TWO full turns.

Also, I've bought several GPS units from C/L and local thrift stores. They make a cheap easy and ACCURATE speedo

I agree^^the tach could be off as well. You can actually check a tach by downloading some musical notes (tones) running your sound output through a low to high impedance transformer (to generate higher voltage) and using that to feed the tach trigger wire. You have to calculate the tone frequency to V8 trigger frequency

I posted a thread on this years ago, never find it now!!!
Thanks, Del. I guess the only cars I have ever cared enough to know the gear ratio on had "posi" rear ends. I guess it DOESN'T work on all rear ends. Thanks for schooling / correcting me.
 
Ok my car doesn't have positive if only one wheel turns when it's jacked up, right? In that case I did two turns of the wheel and ended up with 2 3/4 turns of the driveshaft. Making it a 2.76. I've used a GPS to measure my speed and it's 3000 Rpm at 65. Now without all the computer stuff to calibrate my tach, my ear tells me it's turning a lot of rpm, not 2500. So I'm really thinking my torque converter really may be losing that much. When I punch it the rpms will go way up and stay there (about 2600) until I hit a certain speed and then they'll climb with the mph. Also at 65 if I punch it the rpms will climb a bit to say 3300 then go up with mph.

Do you think when the local shop rebuilt my torque converter they screwed it up?
 
What was the stall of your torque converter supposed to be. If you sit in drive foot on brake what RPM does the engine RPM top out at? be sure your brakes and engine mounts are good and don't be pointed at anything valuable.
 
What was the stall of your torque converter supposed to be. If you sit in drive foot on brake what RPM does the engine RPM top out at? be sure your brakes and engine mounts are good and don't be pointed at anything valuable.
1800
 
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