Rodified #4 Cylinder

[Daves69]

This is a '68 440 Hp block that has received modification to #4 cylinder by a wayward rod years ago. Approximately 1/2" chunk is bit out. Across the lifter alley #3 has just a small nick. Other than that, nothing else evident w/o throwing bucks at it.

For those in the know, how much is too much on #4 cylinder?

 

[RustyRatRod]

That's a tough one and nobody's gonna really be able to accurately answer that because each block will be different due to core shift. The best thing to do is take it in and have it pressure tested. If it passes, what I would do then is have it sonic tested, particularly that cylinder in that area. That will give you a good indication of "where" the water jacket starts.

 

[3406pk]

If rest of block is good, could be sleeved.

 

[pishta]

If your running a stock skirt piston, go for it. The stroker pancake pistons will lower the ring pack. yooull have to slide a piston down and see where the oil rings are in relation to that chunk. Doesn't look like any piston rocking issue as it looks to be about 3/4 inch long? Farmer John would run it.

 

[RustyRatRod]

If rest of block is good, could be sleeved.

Yeah but if that broken spot is REALLY THIN to the bottom of the water jacket it can still start leakin. Even with a sleeve. He needs to find out how thick that is in relation to the bottom of the water jacket.

 

[RustyRatRod]

If your running a stock skirt piston, go for it. The stroker pancake pistons will lower the ring pack. yooull have to slide a piston down and see where the oil rings are in relation to that chunk. Doesn't look like any piston rocking issue as it looks to be about 3/4 inch long? Farmer John would run it.

The oil rings will never ever make it down that far. He's good there.

 

[yellow rose]

Sleeve it and go. The block is solid down there. You don’t need to run the sleeve out the bottom. That’s wrong. Leave a .500 step at the bottom.

It will run forever if it’s done right.

 

[Daves69]

Thanks all for the responses. So that you all know, this is not a hot project for me as it's a third block I have laying around taking up space. I'm am trying to disposition known damage to determine whether or not it is even worth keeping or offering it to others.

....He needs to find out how thick that is in relation to the bottom of the water jacket.

I believe it's a standard bore block now. It's what I was told when I acquired it. Taking .015" out per side makes it thinner yet. Any idea if an ultrasonic thickness meter works on cast?

If rest of block is good, could be sleeved.

Seriously would consider the option depending on cost.

.....Farmer John would run it.

Lol, I haven't planted in years! When I did, it wasn't pretty. Defiantly not a green thumb here. Then too, I could take John's approach.

...... Leave a .500 step at the bottom.

So if I understand ya', end the sleeve bottom at the top of the breakout? What's typical cost for a single installed these days?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Thanks all for the responses. So that you all know, this is not a hot project for me as it's a third block I have laying around taking up space. I'm am trying to disposition known damage to determine whether or not it is even worth keeping or offering it to others.


I believe it's a standard bore block now. It's what I was told when I acquired it. Taking .015" out per side makes it thinner yet. Any idea if an ultrasonic thickness meter works on cast?


Seriously would consider the option depending on cost.



Lol, I haven't planted in years! When I did, it wasn't pretty. Defiantly not a green thumb here. Then too, I could take John's approach.



So if I understand ya', end the sleeve bottom at the top of the breakout? What's typical cost for a single installed these days?

Sure, I've sonic tested plenty of cast iron blocks myself. ...and I do believe YR is correct that it is solid down that far......I am merely pointing out that it would be best to verify that and you can do that with a sonic tester. It would be terrible to build a whole engine using that block and find out later it sprang a leak. That's why I said a sleeve will do no good "for that" but of course it would repair the integrity of the broken piece. ......although if it's solid down there.....and I believe it is, it doesn't really need a sleeve. It's just best to verify, as this hobby "ain't cheap".

 

[yellow rose]

Thanks all for the responses. So that you all know, this is not a hot project for me as it's a third block I have laying around taking up space. I'm am trying to disposition known damage to determine whether or not it is even worth keeping or offering it to others.


I believe it's a standard bore block now. It's what I was told when I acquired it. Taking .015" out per side makes it thinner yet. Any idea if an ultrasonic thickness meter works on cast?


Seriously would consider the option depending on cost.



Lol, I haven't planted in years! When I did, it wasn't pretty. Defiantly not a green thumb here. Then too, I could take John's approach.



So if I understand ya', end the sleeve bottom at the top of the breakout? What's typical cost for a single installed these days?

My bad. I thought there was other damage above that.

I’d take a grinder and purdy that notch up (as long as it’s been Mag’d and it’s not fractured) and send it. No need to even sleeve that.

 

[340runnee]

Sure, I've sonic tested plenty of cast iron blocks myself. ...and I do believe YR is correct that it is solid down that far......I am merely pointing out that it would be best to verify that and you can do that with a sonic tester. It would be terrible to build a whole engine using that block and find out later it sprang a leak. That's why I said a sleeve will do no good "for that" but of course it would repair the integrity of the broken piece. ......although if it's solid down there.....and I believe it is, it doesn't really need a sleeve. It's just best to verify, as this hobby "ain't cheap".

Sorry for reviving the beyond dead almost 5 year old thread, the original poster is willing to sell this block and a set of heads for 150$, and as it's standard bore, it will work with a set of dome 2295s that another guy has as a rotating assembly kit that i can get affordable, so if everything checks out this block is kind of nice. Old trw pistons, iron heads, purple shaft cam, gonna be a time capsule in a 440. I would be able to just do a low fill on the block and be done with every worry about it, right? Previous posts make it seem like more of a water jacket issue, and not a structural integrity issue. Im gonna use a big oil pan, high volume oil pump and if needed a oil cooler so I'm not worried. I also don't really cruise with my car in general.

Either way, a set of heads if they are clean and ready to go with a quick lapping of the valves should be worth it, my existing 906s need new valves and some combustion chambers are pitted, and one is cracked along a bolt hole. I'm probably going to use it as porting practice with the mopar performance templates as some combustion chambers are good still

 

[Newbomb Turk]

Sorry for reviving the beyond dead almost 5 year old thread, the original poster is willing to sell this block and a set of heads for 150$, and as it's standard bore, it will work with a set of dome 2295s that another guy has as a rotating assembly kit that i can get affordable, so if everything checks out this block is kind of nice. Old trw pistons, iron heads, purple shaft cam, gonna be a time capsule in a 440. I would be able to just do a low fill on the block and be done with every worry about it, right? Previous posts make it seem like more of a water jacket issue, and not a structural integrity issue. Im gonna use a big oil pan, high volume oil pump and if needed a oil cooler so I'm not worried. I also don't really cruise with my car in general.

Either way, a set of heads if they are clean and ready to go with a quick lapping of the valves should be worth it, my existing 906s need new valves and some combustion chambers are pitted, and one is cracked along a bolt hole. I'm probably going to use it as porting practice with the mopar performance templates as some combustion chambers are good still

You can do a short fill if you want. It won’t hurt anything. If it was mine I’d clean up the bad spot with a grinder and paper rolls and send it.

But, if it makes you feel better about it then by all means do a short fill. I do lots of things I can’t quantify but I do them anyway.