Roll control and 2 stage limiter?

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Cope

Cope

Fusing with fire
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Im kicking around ideas as to hook up my roll control and 2 stage rev limit.

Do folks tie them to one wire? Part of me thinks i want both to trip with one micro switch. My thought was a switch under the brake peddle, so as soon as I let off the brake the limiter goes to stage 2 and line lock lets go.. Well i guess with line lock i wont be using the brake at stageing?..so I guess that leaves the stearing wheel button or shifter button...

How do you folks have yours set up and how (where,in the water box or at the light?) are you using them?

Thanks again.
 
MSD shows how to hook that up in their book. wiring setups, probably find it on line.
 
Yeah but the actual wiring is not so much what im looking for...

How do you have YOUR limiter and roll controll set up?

Perfacar-Do you have line lock and 2-3 stage limit on YOUR car?

if so how is it hooked up and when where do you like to use it?

or..... do you not?

I look forward to your answer.........
 
I have me Line Lock on a toggle switch on the dash right in front of the shifter. My two stage and trans brake are wired together on the shifter.
 
I have my line lock on a switch on my shifter and only use to do a burn out. Since I foot brake I don't use my two step.
 
I run a 4spd so my lineloc has always been on the shifter and i hold the button with my thumb(i have always run a T handle)but i have long shifter with a jerico and the button is on the top. Thats for the burnout. Then when im staging i have a proximity switch on the clutch pedal and when its depressed it triggers the 2 step and i have a RPM dial on the dash so i can adjust rpms fo the launch. I keep the burnout rpm @ 7000 and the launch between 6 & 8000 depending on track conditions.
 
My line loc switch is mounted on my shifter handle used to do burnouts only...
 
Thanks guys.

I have never built a drag car or done legitimate drag racing and want to get as much figured out as I can.
 
Are you trying to engage the line lock for the front tires went you engage your 2 step or transbrake?
 
Use your line lock only for the burn out. Remember,it can also lock out your brakes! So dont get fancy with it.
 
I got a toggle switch on the dash for my line lock for doing burnouts only. (Some tracks around here do not allow a button in the foot brake class).
 
My set up is the same as most... Toggle switch the 2 step off for burn out. (My line loc and 2 step is on my shifter button switch but can isolate the 2 step with the toggle switch)After burn out I flip the toggle switch on for my 2 step.. Roll into the beams with my thumb on the shifter button, foot to the floor, dump the clutch and let go of the button. 4 speed car .
 
Mine is set up a little different in one or two ways and WAY different in one way.

I have the lock in the front brake line with the activation switch under my index finger on the shifter handle and the light that shows it is locked on my gauge pod (fairly normal)
The two step although not installed at the moment is set up so that if the lock is active the limiter is at it's low RPM limit, then when the lock is released it automatically goes to the second step.

The limiter I have uses a ground to keep it at the first step so a relay activated by the same power supply the lock uses supplies the ground to keep it at the first step until the lock is released and it can rev to the next limit.

My brake lights also come on with the active line lock (per street legal laws) but do so in a way no one has done before that I have ever seen.
I don't have a pressure switch in the front brake line, but just one wire from the line lock power supply to the brake switch on the pedal and on the downstream side of the switch. (Lights side)
When the lock comes on it also sends power to my brakelights, but here's the trick.
There is a diode in the wire between the lock and my brakelight switch that allow power to only flow to the lights and not from the lights back to the lock activating it.

There are two possible scenario's that are possible with an electrical failure of the diode or the line lock itself.

If the diode happens to fail closed allowing power to backflow, it will hold the line lock on as long as the brakelights are active and the lock light will come on up on the dash indicating power to the lock caused by the brake light power activating it.

If the diode fails open, my brakelights won't work when the lock is active.
 
Line lock button on top of shifter...locks brakes and engages 3 step to limit burn out rpm to 6k

transbrake button engages transbrake and 3 step module to limit starting line rpm to 3k rpm and engages link lock thru diode ....
 
ok , Thanks guys.
it appears i was mis understanding the use of these two products.

So The line lock will just be used for burnout, correct?
Then with the 2 stage limiter, I want to set the first stage to limit burnout RPM and second stage for top end RPM limit?
Is this correct?

Now here goes showing my ignorance with all things drag race.

I was thinking the 2 stage limiter would allow me to keep my foot on the gas to the floor at a RPM just bellow by stall converter RPM.
lets say im running a 3,500 RPM stall and my cam comes in at 3,000. I figured id set the first stage RPM limit at 3,000 so I can leave the line right bellow the stall speed of my converter?

To do that i would be wanting a trans-break?

I think I need to get schooled on high stall converters and trans breaks now?

How dose a high stall converter accualy work, will the car NOT move untill I hit the advertised stall speed?

I realise these are probably stupid questions but again I have zero experience with drag racing and building a legit drag car and want to get my brain wrapped around all this stuff.

Thanks again for all your time and advice.
 
Dartsport,ya dont mind me asking. Why the change? Think you would be busting stuff with the new motor? What went in,glide or TF or? First class car ya got there. Hey Cope, its transbrake not transbreak! Could be some bad mojo there!
 
Transbreak is what you get if your transmission is not build correctly using a transbrake...
 
hangn0ut said:
Dartsport,ya dont mind me asking. Why the change? Think you would be busting stuff with the new motor? What went in,glide or TF or? First class car ya got there. Hey Cope, its transbrake not transbreak! Could be some bad mojo there!
Click to expand...

I appreciate the compliment. I don't want to hijack Cope's thread, but I switched from the 4 speed because I knew the trans was the weak link. I was considering a Jericho or Lenco but decided it would be best to just go automatic. I went with a TH400.
 
With the TH400, Dose that have a removable bellhousing?
I need a Auto trans and dont realy want a 727. Who makes the bellhousing? I would consider a 440 to TH-anything bellhousing..
 
Simplest way is probably an adaptor plate. I use one for a glide behind a 392 hemi. No problems whatsoever.
 
There are a couple ways to adapt a Th400. Ultra bell makes a bell housing that you machine the factory bell off the stock case and it bolts to the front pump. Or Reid makes an aftermarket case that has a removable bell housing. That is what I went with.
 
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