Roll Control Question?

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TrailBeast

TrailBeast

AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
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I have done quite a bit of research and I noticed some people put the control solinoid after the diverter valve, between it and the front brakes.
(which the directions show)

Also saw a lot that put it between the master cyl and the diverter valve, and had no issue's with it.
Seems like the brake warning switch would interfere with the brakes holding if it decided to move the switch after the brakes were set.

Now it seems to me the best would be to put it between the valve and the calipers with nothing between them, but I'd like to put it up by the master cylinder.

Got any thoughts/experience/ramblings on this?
 
I called Hurst directly about this, they said to put it after the distribution block.

If you put it between the master and block, the idiot light will come on because there is no pressure on one side of the solenoid.

The right way to do it is to run a line from the front brake outlet on the block to the solenoid and put a plug in the other front outlet. Then the lines to the front wheels get tee'd off the solenoid. The light won't come on because there is pressure on both sides of the solenoid. Pain to do this way but it's correct.

There was an old line lock on my car when I got it but it never worked. It was plumbed off the master before the block. I put a new one in on the driver's side inner fender close to the firewall.
 
mine was between the master and proportioning valve on the front brake line.
I would pump up the brakes set the line lock and mash the loud pedal. never had an issue. I did it this way because the cars "was" going to be a manual trans. this left me free to operate the clutch.
I have also seen them installed on the line to the rear brakes after the prop valve to stop the rear brakes from working.
which is better ? dunno ?
I do like the idea of it in the rear line so you can modulate the front brakes for John Force style burnouts. but I don't know how well it works.
 
I also think the brake light coming on as a reminder of the line lock being activated wasn't a bad thing.
 
I have mine in the wrong way and other than the light coming on it works fine.
 
I don't give a crap about the non existant light because that came out a long time ago.

I also considered using the lock to block the rears, but don't really have any use for it being that way. (I don't know though) I might do it this way now that I think about it more.

Right now the only real use I have for it is to not heat/wear the rear shoes when I want to do a burnout at a light, or stopped.

I also considered what would happen if you set the lock and stomped the brakes.
It would be nice if you wanted to bring the rear end around, but I don't think the master cylinder would allow it to happen due to the piston being solid against the blocked flow to the front brakes.

True?

One other little detail I have to consider is that (Legally) the brake lights have to be on when the line lock is engaged, and I have a 2 stage rev limiter that uses a white wire that grounds to limit the R's to the first stage.

That isn't a problem as far as the line lock goes, as I can make it activate by putting the switch on the ground side and have the hot side be constant on.
This way the switch activates the lock and the 1'st stage of the rev limit at the same time, and I'll need to plumb in a second brake light switch to the front brakes only. (pressure type)
That switch would bypass the one on the pedal and light the brake lights on it's own and both would activate with normal braking. (which won't bother anything)
It will just have one on the pedal, and one on the front brakes also.

So maybe I would be better off using the line lock to block the rears.
This sure would simplify things.
The fronts would work with the backs blocked due to the master cylinder piston for the fronts being in the rear of the cylinder, and the normal brake lights will work with the switch on the pedal.
The main difference would be that I would have to manually hold the pedal, but I do have an auto trans.

Now, if I was holding the brakes with my foot and the drivetrain is under a load from the engine, when I let go of the switch for the line lock is the car going to try to roll for a second until the fluid pressure builds back up in the rear brakes?

If it's possible that this can happen I will just connect it where you set it by pressing the brakes then the lock and when you let go of the lock switch the front brakes let go.
 
:burnout:
vitamindart said:
mine was between the master and proportioning valve on the front brake line.
I would pump up the brakes set the line lock and mash the loud pedal. never had an issue. I did it this way because the cars "was" going to be a manual trans. this left me free to operate the clutch.
I have also seen them installed on the line to the rear brakes after the prop valve to stop the rear brakes from working.
which is better ? dunno ?
I do like the idea of it in the rear line so you can modulate the front brakes for John Force style burnouts. but I don't know how well it works.
Click to expand...



I plumbed mine like this as well since I'm converting my duster into a 4 speed.

Its still in the process of getting it together but when its on the road I'll let you guys know how it works
 
duster731 said:
:burnout:



I plumbed mine like this as well since I'm converting my duster into a 4 speed.

Its still in the process of getting it together but when its on the road I'll let you guys know how it works
Click to expand...

I have been known to throw the car sideways coming up to a turn, but it would be kind of nice to be able to tap just the rear brakes to do it instead of just piching the whole car (Seems like it would be a lot easier to control)

When I had the 440 Roadrunner I sometimes had to swing the rear around past the front so the spinning rear tires pushed it through the corner.
Granted, it's not necessary but you could get that big car around a corner pretty fast that way.

The problem is, that the way the twin tank masters are designed the rear brakes wouldn't apply if the fronts were blocked because the piston wouldn't travel.
 
i got 4 cars plumbed with the line lock between the master cylinder and the distribution block...one car has been like that since 1986.........
 
Mine's between the M/C and the block,, to the front,, yes the br. warning lite comes on when applied,, but goes out when brakes are released,,.

Yes you can tap the brakes while it's active and increase the line press for better hold..

To spin it, while moving, or stopped, hold the line loc,, tap the pedal for amt of resistance on the fronts, tap it again if you want more, turn the wheel, and boot it,,

If you've seen that commercial with the Mopar van,, doing a 180 into a parking space, behind another van,.. you can do that,, takes practice..

Being able to increase and release press to front only, is great for gymkana's etc,,

I like it.. scares the chit outta the wife once in a while.. lol
 
Thanks for the input everyone.
And thanks inertia, I was wondering about that little detail, and it was one of the reasons for blocking the rears instead of locking the fronts.
So apparently the line lock valve lets fluid past if the pressure on the MC side goes higher than the brakes side.

Cool, then that made the decision for me (It's going in the line for the fronts and mounted right on one of the MC mount flange bolts.)
Man those steel 5000lb compression unions are pricey little devils. :)

Any bets that I can get this done without having to bleed the brakes afterwards? :D
I'll be filling the valve and fittings as I go, and I'll bet I can do it.


inertia said:
Mine's between the M/C and the block,, to the front,, yes the br. warning lite comes on when applied,, but goes out when brakes are released,,.

Yes you can tap the brakes while it active and increase the line press for better hold..

To spin it, while moving, or stopped, hold the line loc,, tap the pedal for amt of resistance on the fronts, tap it again if you want more, turn the wheel, and boot it,,

If you've seen that commercial with the Mopar van,, doing a 180 into a parking space, behind another van,.. you can do that,, takes practice..

Being able to increase and release press to front only, is great for gymkana's etc,,

I like it.. scares the chit outta the wife once in a while.. lol
Click to expand...
 
Hmmm.......I have mine mounted between the MC and the dist. block and my light no come on.
 
Bad Sport said:
Hmmm.......I have mine mounted between the MC and the dist. block and my light no come on.
Click to expand...

It's in and I didn't have to bleed the brakes after. :D
I have to hook up the electrics still but I need to go get a relay first, but at least the lock and lines are all done already.


Hey Sport, your switch may be frozen or the bulb may not work.
I can tell when something isn't right, so I don't need the light anyway.
Same with the motor (I can tell when it needs oil because the idle sounds different)

You know, it sounds different when it's 3.5 quarts low on oil right?

JK :burnout::D
 
TrailBeast said:
Hey Sport, your switch may be frozen or the bulb may not work.

Burnt out probably, like me. :D


You know, it sounds different when it's 3.5 quarts low on oil right?

Is that what that clacking is all about? :banghead:

JK :burnout::D
Click to expand...
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