justinp61
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 15, 2009
- Messages
- 3,073
- Reaction score
- 4,063
For me the cost versus the return is not there.
Roller Cam Questions
- Thread starter Valkman
- Start date
-
For me the cost versus the return is not there.
67 gt
A Wog boy who loves his Mopars !
Ironmike
Well-Known Member
This. Never could see why anyone went HYDRAULIC roller, unless it already was a roller block.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
The shaft being hardened is different from the gear material. The first is just down at the tip (and/or the shaft) where the shaft engages the oil pump. The gear material has to be compatible with the cam material. I don't know exactly what happens if you put a steel shaft gear with a steel billet cam but I assume you want the softer gear so that the shaft gear takes the wear.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Crane coated steel gear is what i use with the billet roller cams. They work great. You can also order your roller cam on a cast iron core and just use a regular gear.
Back in 1973 we used roller cam/ lifters & rockers. Granted theses were for racing purposes only. We also didn't have the variety of aluminum heads to choose from. We just ported the heads we had. Today the technology has changed what we have to choose from. The idea of using a full roller valvetrain on the street has been made possible. Granted also changing the heads to fully maximize the HP is preferred but on the street for general driving CI heads with a good port will work fine.
mguner
How many is too many?
Simulated roller performance on a smaller scale is flat tappet with higher ratio rocker arms. Shorter duration with high lift is accomplished without radical profile. As has been mentioned if you just want roller for friction reduction and reliability on modern oils then the cost of a used magnum is comparable to going LA roller as mentioned. Roller is cool but flat tappet has run many thousands of miles without issues when proper lube and break in is adhered to. Then you have some money to spend on other fun stuff..... Don't think anyone will criticize you which ever way you go... It is YOUR car after all.
FYI I'm not saying, I'm going roller. Just looking at my opinions and seeing what it would take if I did.
I don't understand your comment about having to work on a car. Are you referring to the solid lash adjustments? You MIGHT need to do it once a year using good parts.
mguner
How many is too many?
If you are like the rest of us, by the time you get around to it, it will be two years! 
One less thing I have to do each year
Ain't that the truth. The engine I'm planing on building for my street driven Barracuda is a 408 LA block with a full roller valvetrain! I also don't want to run into problems with parts failure down the road so this information is important to me as well. Why am I not using aluminum head? Probably the same reason I'm not using HI PO exhaust manifolds rather than headers. Because that's what I want.If you are like the rest of us, by the time you get around to it, it will be two years!
mguner
How many is too many?
Did you see the thread on the rockers with the needle bearings on the shaft part?
Yes I did. According to a local engine builder they are going away from the needle bearings as they fail too often. He recommends having the bushing instead.
One less thing I have to do each year
I guess there's a new breed of "car guys" that simply want a hot rod to magically appear, ready to run in their driveways and never turn a wrench on them, never learn anything new and never experience the thrill of accomplishment of building and working on their own car.
Sorta like Justin Beiber is to the music industry.
That's just not me. Never has been.
No not really! I've been there and done that, but I'm getting old so I want to get right, and just enjoy driving it! Yeah like that will happen!!!
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
We've all become spoiled to some degree. Cars are too easy to drive, and too easy to NOT work on anymore. Those expectations then bleed over to the hobby cars and hot rods..
I am getting old and am disabled and now a diabetic too, but I will never come down to not working on my own stuff, no matter how bad it gets. "I ain't comin down" lol Adjusting valves once a year. For me, that would give me something to do on a Saturday morning. There's just enough of a power difference between hydraulic and solid that I would not go hydraulic unless the build was so mild and the engine was already equipped as such. Like my RobKat project. It is a 1999 5.0 Explorer engine. I COULD have gone solid......and I actually still may. But I am going to get it all together and running first.
I've been in this game for 40 years now! I've seen some fads come and go while others show they actually work. When you have more that one old car you will always have something that needs work. But you also like to minimise that work so you can enjoy driving what you have. Some people love the grease under the nails while other prefer the wind in the hair, at least what's left of it. That's the great thing about this hobby unless you are uber rich and have somebody else to maintain your collection.
A roller cam will make nice power and be easy to deal with. Great for a all around driver.
Rodzilla
Well-Known Member
I'm late to this party but I agree with some that you should stick with flat tappet,,,or go full solid roller. No sense wasting money on parts that don't equal performance gains that would be noticeable.
-
