Running hot

-
tomt966

tomt966

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2007
Messages
805
Reaction score
1
Location
Tallahassee, FL
I'm losing my patience with my toy. It runs hot. With a 190 stat I run 220-230 in traffic at 85-90 degrees outside. I checked the water temp against my gage and the gage is accurate. I installed a new (not OEM) replacement 22 inch radiator, 3 inch wide top tank. No help. I installed a shroud. No help. I installed a 160 stat and it slowly goes back up to 220-230 in stop and go traffic. I removed the hood sound insulation thinking it was trapping heat. No help. I have a new standard water pump (not high volume). Water flows very good in the upper tank. Changed the rad cap twice - no help. Do you think getting the rad recored to 3 core would really help? I mean, you can only move so much water at a time and it already flows great. Any ideas? Thanx
 
Mine was the same way before I ditched the A/C. I think the condenser was blocking too much airflow.
 
What type of fan? Stock, electric or flex?
Direct drive or fan clutch?
Does the lower hose have an anti-collapse spring in it??
With an infrared thermometer, check the temps all over the rad, hoses,etc.
 
Same problem with mine. Re-cored rad with 3 rows: no help. Fan shroud: no help. Spacer for stock fan to move closer to rad: no help. Thermostats of colder heat ranges: no help. Water Wetter: No help.
It would overheat after iding in traffic for 15 minutes. Taking it to the track was a joke with needing a 1/2 hour cool down AT LEAST between passes and running cold water over the engine and rad.
HOWEVER, I bought the M/P clutch fan kit thru Mancini Racing and PRESTO! No more over heating/running hot issues!! I can idle all day in traffic with no problem. I can make a pass at the track after a 10 minute cool down and watch the temp gauge go DOWN after 30 seconds of idling!! All that effort and money wasted chasing the wrong thing.
 
Only way to get around this is the electric fans. Make sure you don't have any leaks anywhere and it will keep it around 195 max in stop and go traffic.
Good luck

fan005.jpg


fan004.jpg


fan002.jpg
 
67GTX, Where did you get your fan and radiator setup? Has to be one of the nicest-cleanest installs I've seen. Great job. Sorry TomT I didn't mean to hijack your thread:(
 
What is your timing set at?
Is your fan blade half way into the shrould?
Have you tried another termostat?I have bought new ones and they have been junk..
 
sounds like your fan clutch. slow or no moving equals no air flow and your fan clutch isnt turning the fan quick enough.
 
You should be able to feel the fluid resistance in the clutch when you turn the blade by hand. If the clutch shows leaking fluid at the shaft seal and/or you can move/tilt the fan forward and back over 1/8 inch... there's your sign.
 
So what car ? Engine ? Exhaust ? Bottled up exhaust can cause overheating.
Grasping at straws now and thinking about some of the KRAZY cooling problems I've seen over the years. One aluminum water pump with a bubble like slag left in the lower hose casting (just a bad part). Then caps from anitfreeze bottles obstructing flow, thermostats upside down, on and on.
I wish you good luck.
 
I went through the exact same problem, then switched to a seven blade fan from a swap meet(cheap) Magically, problem solved.
 
Running a 340, headers, 1 7/8(?) pipes. It does not cool down from 220/230 even after driving 50-60mph for 8 miles.The fan is not a player at that speed, and there is plenty of ram air across the rad at 50mph. Water is flowing great across the top of the tank.
 
I have a stock 1966 22" radiator in my 1966 Valiant, had it recored with a "high flow" efficiency 2 core, it flows the same as a 3 core. My car runs at 180 all day long, rarely ever going above 190! I use a steel factory fan shroud, 180 thermostat, Flowkooler high flow water pump, and a stock 4 blade fan and pullies, just plain antifreeze, no additives. I have a 340 in my car, more info about can be seen in my profile garage if needed. Here are a couple of pics....

Picture 212.jpg


Picture 254.jpg
 
Starting to sound like the block's gunked up on the inside for some reason. It can still flow plenty of water despite there being enough crud caked up in the coolant passages to slow heat transfer. When was the last time you had it apart? Maybe time for a good flush or two.
 
I have a 360 bored .030 less than 2000 miles,tti headers, cammed, etc. The cooling system is 17" x 22" 2 core stock type radiator, stock pump, 50/50 antifreeze and water. I was running a clutch and stock fan no shroud, no over heating... now I run a electric fan with 3650 cfm still no over heating.

Now your cooling system sounds like no difference than mine before I changed to electric fan so this is really a strange thing.
 
Take the thermostat completely out. If it it still heats up lightly cruising on the highway at 50-60mph there must be blockage somewhere.
 
In a similar boat with a BB a-body and 22" rad. Everything is new. Tried thermo clutch, fan (Hayden) as well as 17" electric.

66340Sedan, where did you come up with the 2 piece metal shroud?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top