running............... now nothing...help

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340plot

340plot

the bushy bush
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ok, i had the 340 running great before taking the engine out. pulled the distributor so i did not damage it during the yank out. lost position of said mark. so, i set cyl 1 at tdc, and the rotor faces the number one cyl.

what do i have wrong? is that correct.

and one have a link to the proper way?
 
Try cranking it over 1 full turn the get to the intake stroke. Just a Guess. Or maybe see where the timing mark is on the Pulley. It should be lined up at the same time the #1 piston is at the top and the Rotor faces the # 1 electrode on the cap.
 
well, i was told it has to be on the compression stroke........?
 
Yes on the compression stroke. You could be 180 off unless you pull the valve cover and check to see if both valves are closed
 
340plot said:
well, i was told it has to be on the compression stroke........?
Click to expand...

You are correct it does have to be on the compression stroke. It is possible that you have the dist. 180* off. This happened to me this past weekend when I tried to start the new 360. I was on the compression stroke but the distributor was 180* off, lifted it out put it 180* around and it started right up.
 
Did you pull the #1 plug and check to see if it was on the compression stroke? that timing mark cycles twice, you might be on the exhaust cycle.
 
I think we all agree it's probably 180* out. Just hard to put into words. Just spin the crank 1 full turn and reinstall the dist at #1.
 
The easiest way and best way is to pull the left (Driver side) valve cover turn the motor clockwise watching the valves on number one,when the intake valve drops( the intake valve lines up with the intake runner) keep turning it till it closes and your mark get to 0 (tdc) or a few degree before.Stab you dist with it point to number one.
You may have to move the oil pump drive to help you get it line up and voila,start her up and set your timing with the vacuum advance not hook up of course.
TXDart
 
ok, i have done just that. pulled a plug, tapped to compression stroke, and set on zero. car will not start. so, i pulled the dist, and spun it 180 just to be sure, still no start. so i can rule out the 180 idea
 
Do we definitely have Spark & Fuel? Also double check the firing order(No crossed plug wires).
 
Check power to the coil with a test light or volt meter at positive side off coil with key on.
Does it have a ballast?
Are your wires all hooked up at the starter relay?
Just thinking out loud,got to go to sleep...
Logging off TXDart
 
Verify that you are getting spark. I take an extra spark plug and put it in #1 spark plug wire and hold it to a ground. Turn the ignition switch to run and then use a remote starter to crank it and look for spark. If no spark take the center wire out of the distributor that goes to the coil and hold it near a ground and crank the engine over with the ignition in run position.

If you have spark and still does not fire make sure you are getting gas.

Sometimes people don't always get the distributor gear in "like stock" and it can be a little off (not pointing to #1 cyl). The easiest way to compensate/correct this is to pull the #1 spark plug and crank/turn the engine over with your finger over the hole and feel when you are on the compression stroke. Put the engine at TDC for #1. then see where the rotor is pointing. Make that your #1 spark plug position on the distributor cap and then follow the firing order around in the direction of the distributor rotation 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.
 
Take the plug out #1, turn it over with cap and wires off , make sure it is on compression it will shove your thunb right off , if the rotor is pointing to number one after you found compression drivers side front , you got her put your cap back on . set your timing at 12 degrees in 72 i think.
 
340plot said:
ok, i had the 340 running great before taking the engine out.
Click to expand...

We can read a LOT into that statement. HOW LONG was it out? (two years/ sour gas?)

What did you DO to the engine? (Different cam, out of time, etc valve adjustment?)

It should not take two DAYS to fix an ignition problem

THREE things needed to run

1. COMPRESSION: Do yo have compression? How do you know? You run a compression check?

2. FUEL Are you sure you are getting clean, fresh fuel?

3. SPARK meaning a GOOD enough spark and at the right TIME

Before you pull the dist. again, pull the coil wire from the COIL and use a probe to ground right at the top of the coil tower. Have someone crank the engine USING THE KEY. You should get a nice hot spark

ARE YOU SURE the timing marks are OK?

Remove no1 plug, and put a finger in the hole. Bump the engine until you START to feel compression. Now look at the marks and bump/ wrench the engine TO WHERE you want the timing, IE say, 10 before TDC.

Now check the dist or turn 180 so the rotor points to no1. RETARD the dist (cw for a sb) and then move the dist back ADVANCED (ccw for a sb) until the reluctor is pointing to the center of the pickup coil.

While you are at it, "spring" the rotor to be sure the mechanical advance is free

If it won't start and run at this setting, you have other problems, no spark, timing mark wrong, bad fuel, cam timing, etc.
 
340plot said:
well, i was told it has to be on the compression stroke........?
Click to expand...

That is correct. Pull #1 plug, insert finger in hole, turn engine over slowly untill you fell pressure trying to push your finger out, pull mark on balancer to zero, drop distributor in with rotor pointing at number 1 on the cap. That should get you close enough for it to fire.
 
ook. did all the steps in previous post. i got it to backfire and all, but unless i stab the throttle like a wildman, it will not stay running. the carb is rebuilt, but do not think it is actually set-tuned yet
 
well, ^^^^^^^ you may be right. i played with the screws on front of carb, and she fired right up. but..... after running for like 15 seconds she wants to shut off, unless i pupm the crap out of it. but when i turn the key on and try to start back up, it will start right back up
 
i do not have another carb to throw on it. it is the origional thermaquad, rebuilt. i do have fuel as the filter is full. new fuel pump.
 
who rebuilt it?? maybe the float/s is set wrong?? if it is a new fuel pump you might be getting too much or not enough fuel/pressure, I would hook up a gauge to see what the psi is to the carb.
 
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