Salvagable Block?

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Dragonbat13

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I just brought home a 400 block with the intentions of building a 451 with a solid roller cam. The cyl bores are standard bore. I was planning on full machine work including lifter bore bushings.

I got two questions.
1 Is this thing worth using? I really only need the block, so it would save me the hassle of finding a 400 out of a motor home or something.

2 What would be the best way to stop further damage? I have a bore hone that I could knock off the heavy rust in the cylinders. And I could get a brake hone to clean the lifter bores. I was going to just spray what is already there with marvel mystery oil and wrap it in plastic for now. When I have a little more time I can bring it to the machine shop and have it baked and checked for cracks. I have to do as little as possible during my mobile home move which should be over in a month or two.

Here are some pics:






 
IMO, probably need to hot tank it and assess after if your bent on using it. No telling how deep any pitting may go.
 
Have it shot blasted, it will make a world of difference.


BTW..........The guy's from "Hot Heads" started with a rustier block than that for their "Engine Masters" Weber carbed Hemi they built.

It just takes patients.
 
Have it acid dipped. We had a 340 block dipped and it came out NICE. Hot tank will NOT remove rust, neither will baking it.
 
I have saved much worse. Get it all cleaned up and inspected.
 
Airless shot it. I don't see any problems with it. That's what old iron looks like. Everything gets cleaned up anyway. Seen much worse come out just fine.
 
OK, lets say I take it to the machine shop, have it checked out and its a usable core. What would be the best way to store it once its cleaned?

Right now with all my parts I clean them down, spray them with marvel mystery oil, wrap them in Saran Wrap and put them up. The parts are going into a non climate controlled shed. Basically out of the rain.

Am I doing ok, or is there a better way?
 
Dragonbat13 said:
Right now with all my parts I clean them down, spray them with marvel mystery oil, wrap them in Saran Wrap and put them up. The parts are going into a non climate controlled shed. Basically out of the rain.

Am I doing ok, or is there a better way?
Click to expand...

I don't know if it's better or worse, lol.

I have two blocks under my bench. I oil the machined surfaces, put them in a large heavy Mil contractor bag and set them on a 4 wheel dolly. Just before I seal the bag up I throw 8-10 pieces of charcoal in the bottom (NON match light), the charcoal aids in keeping moisture from building up.
 
Bring it in the house in a controlled environment.
 
I cant bring it in the house, if I was single I could. We are moving out of the trailer park and onto our new property. The property came with a decent shed that I can make into a work shop and store all my parts. I dont know if I can handle storing parts in the house anymore anyway.

Never thought about the charcoal. I was looking for this stuff cat makes to pickle an engine while in storage. The rental mechanics drain the engine oil, and pour a gallon into the engine. It would make a vapor that would coat the internals and protect.

While I was looking for that (never found it), I talked over the phone to the man who works in the warehouse for orielly's. He told me that I could use marvel. He said I could take a crow bar, put it in a shallow bucket of marvel, and over the days watch the marvel "crawl" up the crow bar. I got the idea about the saran wrap from offshore. It works well to an extent. Mostly keeps the parts from getting salt water on them during the boat ride out and storage till installation for the short term.
 
Best-case - leave it alone until you have ALL the money for an engine. Then have it machined, assemble it, and get it running. It's totally pissing money away to machine or clean it, then leave it anywhere. Even my heated garage will generate some rust over years of sitting. If you can't afford doing it all, wait until you can. If you have to do the body - do that first.
 
A hot will will remove rust as long as the tank is full of the right chemical at the right concentration......
 
moper said:
Best-case - leave it alone until you have ALL the money for an engine. Then have it machined, assemble it, and get it running. It's totally pissing money away to machine or clean it, then leave it anywhere. Even my heated garage will generate some rust over years of sitting. If you can't afford doing it all, wait until you can. If you have to do the body - do that first.
Click to expand...

this is my line of thinking. All I want to do is stop the rust from getting any worse than it already is. I would think all the rust would have to be removed first.

Cosmoline would work well. I never could find it. Never thought about Amazon.
 
moper said:
Best-case - leave it alone until you have ALL the money for an engine. Then have it machined, assemble it, and get it running. It's totally pissing money away to machine or clean it, then leave it anywhere. Even my heated garage will generate some rust over years of sitting. If you can't afford doing it all, wait until you can. If you have to do the body - do that first.
Click to expand...

Ok...I admit I am not an expert. Machine work on the motors I have been doing is well over a grand. I wouldn't even think of messing with it until you are ready. Stroker components aren't cheap. Spending all that dough then taking a chance while it sits is riskier than keeping it dry in my book.
 
This block was as bad or worse than yours before I sent it in to have it cleaned, boiled in oil, sonic checked and readied for machining!
 

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If it were me......

I'd clean it up the best I could, MYSELF, then give it a good rub down of oil, or some sort of protectant, shrink wrap it and store it till I'm ready to put it to use. The cost of cleaning the cylinder walls to remove rust and pitting, is gonna be at risk, if you do it, then put it in storage. Store it cleaned up and protected as-is, till your ready for it!!!!!
 
Get a 55 gal drum and waste oil to store the block. Clamp the lid on it and it can sit outside
till your ready for it. Set the drum off the ground on cement blocks so the bottom doesn't
rust out.
 
Better yet fill the drum with molasses rather than waste oil and the rust will
wash off when your ready to take it out.
 
I took this 340 from this..



To this..



Been running it in my Dart for 3 years now with no problems, and have driven it 10 hours one way on the highway before. No problems.
 
I have heard of mollasses before, i guess you can buy it at a feed store, and soak the block in it, dont know how much 40 gallons would cost but the barrel idea is great for sone long term storage. I heard potatoes act on rust too. Cosmoline/vaseline..whats the difference? Both would stick and vaseline is .99 a tub at dollar tree. You just want to dispkace the moisture, and i wouldnt bother with the cylinders, yoyr going to have them bored anyway unless you got sone active rust down there. Lifetr bores should clean right up.
 
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