SB Cam Thrust Plate P5249637 no longer made? Only tensioner now?

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Duane said:
I have a brand new one at home. I will measure it when I get home today.
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What l did on my thrust plate was dremeled a small trough into the plate leading from the front cup plug on the drivers side, to just underneath where the cam surface rubs on the plate.
The drivers side oil galley plug has a .030 hole drilled in it to feed the trough. This gets a small amount of pressurized oil to the cam and thrust plate to minimize the wear.
 
I drilled a hole in the tensioner and a small hole in the galley plug. I'm sure it's a oily mess inside the timing cover but no lack of lubrication.
LOL

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With this mod is the bolt with the hole still used? As in my picture post, upper left facing the engine.......
 
Dicer said:
With this mod is the bolt with the hole still used? As in my picture post, upper left facing the engine.......
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I don't think so. The bolt with the hole does that same thing.
 
Duane said:
I got that #12 coolant hose to clear the distributor too. That was a tough one. I got a lot of hours in this build. I sure hope it all works lol.
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What's the base engine? Stroker?
 
Duane said:
Agreed, that's why I went to a gear drive, takes out all the variables
and never changes.
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I run one in my 340, stabilizes idle timing mostly and perhaps keeps the cam gear from SOME erratic rotation speeds...but i believe during acceleration, constant or otherwise, already keeps the cam timing steady, 'reasonably speaking'.

Mine, used with a aussie billet dbl set, has wear. I don't like the worn particles going into the pan just like I don't want old valve stem seals bunching up in the pickup.

Steady timing reading at idle is the only noticeable thing. Imo

I'm not saying to run one or not run one.
...I just wish they made a spring loaded gear that meshed with the chain instead of a guide .

4.6 ford... that motor will make you hate chain guides.lol
 
toolmanmike said:
What's the base engine? Stroker?
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Yes stroker, 318 X block 4.04 bore with 4 inch stroke. 410 cubic inch, 12.7 compression Ross Pistons. Eagle H beam, forged Scat crankshaft, milodon gear drive,milodon super stock oil pan with swinging pickup. Ported w2 with old Holley strip dominator also port matched. 2.08 intake,1 7/8 hedman headers. Sort of an old school build I guess. Fuel type undetermined lol.
 
Duane said:
Yes stroker, 318 X block 4.04 bore with 4 inch stroke. 410 cubic inch, 12.7 compression Ross Pistons. Eagle H beam, forged Scat crankshaft, milodon gear drive,milodon super stock oil pan with swinging pickup. Ported w2 with old Holley strip dominator also port matched. 2.08 intake,1 7/8 hedman headers. Sort of an old school build I guess. Fuel type undetermined lol.
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My desktop dyno says 605 horse with a 300° 600 lift cam. Keep us posted!
 
Dorman used to make a camshaft hardware kit that included the thrust plate, retaining fasteners, fuel pump eccentric and the three freeze plugs that go in the end of each oil galley in the front of the block. They discontinued it.
 
toolmanmike said:
My desktop dyno says 605 horse with a 300° 600 lift cam. Keep us posted!
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I have 260 @ .050 lift and .705 at the intake valve, does that make a difference in your calculator. Not sure how well I did on the cam selection. But 605 will work lol.
 
Duane said:
I have 260 @ .050 lift and .705 at the intake valve, does that make a difference in your calculator. Not sure how well I did on the cam selection. But 605 will work lol.
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LOL 637@ 6500 Just for fun.
 
Funny to read I'm not the only one that ground a very, very shallow 'channel' on the back of the tensioner-plate, only from the cam bearing to the direction of the drip-tab.
I reckoned there is plenty of oil-spill from the front cambearing on both sides, so capturing a bit of the run-off and direct it the drip-tab and crank-sprocket couldn't hurt.

Wish I took some pics of it.
 
That's some serious business there. Even if my numbers are way off you should be at 550 or so. Any dyno's close by?
 
toolmanmike said:
That's some serious business there. Even if my numbers are way off you should be at 550 or so. Any dyno's close by?
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Yes there is one but not going that route. My plan was to build a mid to low 10 second car. I approached the goal as a whole. Motor, trans, car weight, big tire,etc. 14x32 tire, low gear 904,aluminum rollerized trans,4:88 rear gear. Total package. It is still a bracket car and will run what it runs.
 
As for the double roller chain, I made sure to run some fine emery paper a couple of times along the entire outside of the chain to remove any sharp edges that could dig into the nylon of the tensioner, hoping to prolong its life.
 
Smoky Yunick used to say the best timing chain looks like a snake trying to get out of an oil can when at speed... that's why he liked two gear timing sets.
 
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