Sbm x block

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@yellow rose

I don’t remember Cory’s screen name. He was a happy go lucky guy. It was great meeting him. I don’t remember what lifter was being employed. This was a long time ago. (Sort off) He has pictures up here documenting the whole thing. His 340 resto block broke through (IIRC) behind the upper part of the lifters into the water jackets before they could be fit in. The block was wasted. This is the one and only draw back to THAT block. It was otherwise a race block with standard features of stock blocks like a TA block.

His is not the first or last time I have heard and seen of this issue. He did get another one and built that up nicely. IIRC, it was in a Dart.
 
@yellow rose

I don’t remember Cory’s screen name. He was a happy go lucky guy. It was great meeting him. I don’t remember what lifter was being employed. This was a long time ago. (Sort off) He has pictures up here documenting the whole thing. His 340 resto block broke through (IIRC) behind the upper part of the lifters into the water jackets before they could be fit in. The block was wasted. This is the one and only draw back to THAT block. It was otherwise a race block with standard features of stock blocks like a TA block.

His is not the first or last time I have heard and seen of this issue. He did get another one and built that up nicely. IIRC, it was in a Dart.


Can you find the link to that? I'd like to see the pictures.
 
That’s why Comp moved the link bar to the other side of the lifter tang I think.
 
I am not sure about the R blocks, but on some stock blocks where the Comp 828s need grinding in the valley to go in, the Crane rollers will slip right in. My oldest son has my $800 set of Cranes in his motor because when he swapped to solid roller from hyd. flat his comps wouldn't go in without grinding and my Cranes did. We did the swap over a weekend and it is his only car so it had to be running for him to go to work monday. Any how, maybe the Cranes would work better in the R blocks.
 
You can only do that with the 48 degree lifter bank angle.
Not correct I have a set of those and I believe only comp cams makes a lifter for those blocks with the link moved inboard.
I did not have to grind my x block to clear and it is 59 deg block.
Comp makes a bronze bushed axle(no needle bearings) pressure fed to the axle with the link bar moved inboard.
 
Not correct I have a set of those and I believe only comp cams makes a lifter for those blocks with the link moved inboard.
I did not have to grind my x block to clear and it is 59 deg block.
Comp makes a bronze bushed axle(no needle bearings) pressure fed to the axle with the link bar moved inboard.


So help me visualize this...I'm thinking the guy who was talking about the link bar position was saying they make lifters with link bars that are on the valley side of the lifter and not on the cylinder side of the lifter. I thought that's what he was saying.

If that's correct, then I know of no lifter that fits the 59 degree lifter bank angle blocks (any version from Pcar to R blocks) with link bars facing the valley. If the link bars face the valley the push rods will hit them.

The only lifters with link bars that face the lifter valley are R blocks with the 48 degree lifter bank angle.


If that's not what we are discussing, then please clue me in. It's not like I don't get out in the weeds on a regular basis.
 
So help me visualize this...I'm thinking the guy who was talking about the link bar position was saying they make lifters with link bars that are on the valley side of the lifter and not on the cylinder side of the lifter. I thought that's what he was saying.

If that's correct, then I know of no lifter that fits the 59 degree lifter bank angle blocks (any version from Pcar to R blocks) with link bars facing the valley. If the link bars face the valley the push rods will hit them.

The only lifters with link bars that face the lifter valley are R blocks with the 48 degree lifter bank angle.


If that's not what we are discussing, then please clue me in. It's not like I don't get out in the weeds on a regular basis.
Comp cams, here's a pic of my block with lifters in there.

image.png


image.png
 
Comp cams, here's a pic of my block with lifters in there.

View attachment 1715396828

View attachment 1715396829


Gotcha. I think the guy talking about lifters above was saying or asking about having the link bars face the valley. With the 59* LBA they have to face the way yours do or otherwise the pushrods will hit the link bar. I thought that's what we were talking about.
 
Gotcha. I think the guy talking about lifters above was saying or asking about having the link bars face the valley. With the 59* LBA they have to face the way yours do or otherwise the pushrods will hit the link bar. I thought that's what we were talking about.
I do believe one of the other poster was correct. When the resto block came out initially, the roller that comp had would not clear the block and the water jacket is close to the wall on those blocks so you could not grind without getting into the water jacket as some found out the hard way. Comp reworked there existing lifter to resolve the problem and comp confirmed to me that this lifter would clear the x block without grinding and clear the rest block.
 
I do believe one of the other poster was correct. When the resto block came out initially, the roller that comp had would not clear the block and the water jacket is close to the wall on those blocks so you could not grind without getting into the water jacket as some found out the hard way. Comp reworked there existing lifter to resolve the problem and comp confirmed to me that this lifter would clear the x block without grinding and clear the rest block.



Ahhhh. Now I got it. A little slow on the uptake I am but eventually I catch up.

Thx
 
The X block is identical to a factory 340 block in the lifter valley area.
I had zero problem dropping in a set of Crane ultra pro’s in an X block i ran.
Where you run into problems is with R3 59 degree stuff with the head bolt bosses.
Brian at IMM worked with Comp to come up with a fix for that. I forget the part number, but i remember it being a huge help
 
The X block is identical to a factory 340 block in the lifter valley area.
I had zero problem dropping in a set of Crane ultra pro’s in an X block i ran.
Where you run into problems is with R3 59 degree stuff with the head bolt bosses.
Brian at IMM worked with Comp to come up with a fix for that. I forget the part number, but i remember it being a huge help


I have an R1 sitting out there. It has the lifter bosses for the 48 degree LBA but it is drilled for the 59 degree LBA. If I'm stuck running a Comp lifter I'll skip that and use a mushroom flat tappet cam instead of a roller.
 
I have an R1 sitting out there. It has the lifter bosses for the 48 degree LBA but it is drilled for the 59 degree LBA. If I'm stuck running a Comp lifter I'll skip that and use a mushroom flat tappet cam instead of a roller.

Dont blame ya. I like the ultra pro’s. Wouldnt use comp rollers either.
Have you checked around with Crower, BAM, etc?
 
Dont blame ya. I like the ultra pro’s. Wouldnt use comp rollers either.
Have you checked around with Crower, BAM, etc?


Not yet. I just got all the parts back here to the house after them being in storage for a couple of years.

I need to get out a new spiral notebook and start laying out the plan for this engine and see what it looks like on paper.

I did find the BFN gear drive and Fluidamper though!!!!
 
I have an R1 sitting out there. It has the lifter bosses for the 48 degree LBA but it is drilled for the 59 degree LBA. If I'm stuck running a Comp lifter I'll skip that and use a mushroom flat tappet cam instead of a roller.
What do you not like about the comp lifters? I'm curious.
 
The X block is identical to a factory 340 block in the lifter valley area.
I had zero problem dropping in a set of Crane ultra pro’s in an X block i ran.
Where you run into problems is with R3 59 degree stuff with the head bolt bosses.
Brian at IMM worked with Comp to come up with a fix for that. I forget the part number, but i remember it being a huge help
I do believe the restoration block is identical on the lifter valley side but it is not identical on the water jacket side.
As the other poster said, when Chrysler released this block they specifically said no roller cam because there was an interference problem that could not be rectified by grinding like standard blocks.
That's when the link bar was moved I believe.
 
I have an R1 sitting out there. It has the lifter bosses for the 48 degree LBA but it is drilled for the 59 degree LBA. If I'm stuck running a Comp lifter I'll skip that and use a mushroom flat tappet cam instead of a roller.
Have a look at comps relatively new sportsman lifters.
They are not the endurex lifters. I like the staked axles, no clips to fall out and no needle bearings.
 
What do you not like about the comp lifters? I'm curious.


Most of them come with a .750 diameter wheel. When you get up to the money Comp wants for their lifters with the bigger wheel, I can buy the Crane Pro Series or a set of Crowers. I hate small wheel, and I don't like their hinky link bars.
 
Have a look at comps relatively new sportsman lifters.
They are not the endurex lifters. I like the staked axles, no clips to fall out and no needle bearings.


Thanks. I'll have a look at them and see what the price point is. I have a phobia about lifters. And Crane and Comp's low end lifters are responsible over that.

I nearly quit racing in 1995 over lifters. Had I not called and talked to Wayne Jesel I would have. Luckily, he let me name drop when I called Crane back (for the umpteenth time about their crap lifters) and I said to the flunky on the phone "Wayne Jesel says you are cornholing me" and boom!!! Chase Knight is on the phone. 2 days and 150 bucks later I had a set of brand new Pro Series lifters on my door step.

Never failed another lifter. Those cheap Chevy based lifters cost me almost 7500 bucks in broken and junk parts. That doesn't count the dyno time I paid for a wasted or fuel and gate fees.

Don't get me started on cheap lifters. I lose the few marbles I have left LOL.
 
Most of them come with a .750 diameter wheel. When you get up to the money Comp wants for their lifters with the bigger wheel, I can buy the Crane Pro Series or a set of Crowers. I hate small wheel, and I don't like their hinky link bars.
Yes you are referring to the comp elite lifter. Bigger wheel and axle
and price tag lol. I previously had a set of the endurex in my old motor and I can also tell you that although the link bar looks the same on the sportsman lifter, it is a different material.
 
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