Scarebird Conversion Almost Complete
- Thread starter cesibley
- Start date
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66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
My uncle used the Scarebird disc stuff on his 71 Dart and loves it :glasses7:
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
nice work. looks really good!
1968dartman
life is getting better!!
That is my job for this winter!
coffeedart67
Well-Known Member
I have about 300 miles on my scarebird brakes (can I call them Kelsey Hayes, because I used KH calipers?) and love em. Do need to pull the driers side back apart as 2 studs where welded in and I thought they pressed in ok, but when I went to put the wheel on those two studs were wobbly, so I got oversize knurl studs to replace them, I used one oversize knurl stud on the passenger side(dorman #610-114, if I remember right)
Aaron
Aaron
metallidart
member me?
Looks good! I have always wondered about the Scarebird stuff, I would like to try it someday.
voodoo1
Well-Known Member
Front End Rebuild, Scarebird Disk Conversion, Dual Master and Stainless Steel Lines. Left side done, on to the right!
Looks good. How much do you have into it? Mike
A68DART360
Well-Known Member
is this a small bolt pattern disc brake that you are putting on inplace of KH for cost factor.
68383GTS
Well-Known Member
So did you use the Scarebird recommended rotors and calipers? Or did you find something else to fit. Looks like all I need to do this is the Scarebird plates,and the recommened rotors and calipers.
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Yup, easy as pie. :glasses7:
/6 Matt
30 Degrees Crooked
What all gors into the scarebird swap? Ive heard of it and seen it before but never have been able to track much info on it.
Sacebird supplies the brackets and a couple of miscellaneous parts. You source the rest of the part online or through a local auto parts store. I ordered everything for mine from rockauto.com
The Calipers are Chevy Celebrity and the Rotors are Toyota Previa. If you want to keep your 4x5 bolt patter you will need to drill new holes into the rotor, or have a local shop do it. Scarebird also sells pre drilled rotors. The hardest part is removing the drum from the hub and cleaning up the surface of the hub so the rotor sits flush. Otherwise it is a rather simple bolt on conversion.
BTW: My parts estimate of $330 included $60 for a Dual Master Cylinder as I upgraded that along the process. I also paid more for Raybestos parts rather and some of the cheaper or "off" brands. If you really wanted to go on the cheap you could do it for less than $250.
Driving impressions: VAST improvement over 9" drums! Stops smooth and straight effortlessly. Very happy with them.
The scarebird web page is www.scarebird.com they sell kits for both 9" and 10" drums.
Curt.
The Calipers are Chevy Celebrity and the Rotors are Toyota Previa. If you want to keep your 4x5 bolt patter you will need to drill new holes into the rotor, or have a local shop do it. Scarebird also sells pre drilled rotors. The hardest part is removing the drum from the hub and cleaning up the surface of the hub so the rotor sits flush. Otherwise it is a rather simple bolt on conversion.
BTW: My parts estimate of $330 included $60 for a Dual Master Cylinder as I upgraded that along the process. I also paid more for Raybestos parts rather and some of the cheaper or "off" brands. If you really wanted to go on the cheap you could do it for less than $250.
Driving impressions: VAST improvement over 9" drums! Stops smooth and straight effortlessly. Very happy with them.
The scarebird web page is www.scarebird.com they sell kits for both 9" and 10" drums.
Curt.
voodoo1
Well-Known Member
So with the previa rotor and caliper you're set. That's cheap.
/6 Matt
30 Degrees Crooked
Cool! Thanks for clearing that up for me! Do you know what bp the celebrity rotors are to begin with? And on a side note, for some reason I have never had an issue with stuck drums on my car before. Reletives cars, customer cars, any vehicle but mine and my dads, yes they get stuck. Odd huh?
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
I did my conversion on my 66 dart and went to the large pattern so that if I needed to change rotors all I have to do now is just slap em on. yep the Previa are a LBP or 5 on 4.5. I have 2 set's of 9 inch hubs that were redrilled for screw in 2 inch 1/2 studs (just in case I ruin a hub for some reason). I was worried about how close it would be, but after they were drilled I really had almost the same amount of material to hold the screw in studs as the 10 inch hubs.
the dart 9" hub was the first one that I had done. All the other scarebird conversions were on bigger hubs for a 65 Satellite, 69 charger, 70 challenger and 2 67 chargers. all the conversions worked great . 1 67 charger is the owners daily driver that has put on about 20k on the brakes . the 65 Satellite did have an small issue. That was from a failing master cylinder which has since been corrected.
the dart 9" hub was the first one that I had done. All the other scarebird conversions were on bigger hubs for a 65 Satellite, 69 charger, 70 challenger and 2 67 chargers. all the conversions worked great . 1 67 charger is the owners daily driver that has put on about 20k on the brakes . the 65 Satellite did have an small issue. That was from a failing master cylinder which has since been corrected.
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
?? stuck as in can't get them off the car or stuck as in can't get them off the hub.
stuck on car can mean(front hubs only) that the shoes are wedged or adjusted to tight or stuck in the ridge that's on the edge of the drum. well the rears too but it could be rusted to the axle flange in the rear also with the brake shoes jamming things up still.
stuck on hubs( front only) can mean that your stud have been "swedged" to the drum. easiest way to fix that get someone to de- swedge it with a special tool. second way= harder but works too. is to back drill the head of the stub (inside the drum) and knock off the head I did mine the second way since I couldn't find anyone that had a swedge tool or even knew what it was. 1/4 drill to pilot the hole and then prograsively bigger till I could knock off the head and punch it through.
View attachment DSCF2793.JPG
View attachment DSCF2791.JPG
this shows just the hub with the 4" bp;t pattern as a test mockup.
I now have both set's of hubs redrilled to 4.5 bolt pattern but I can also still go to the small bolt pattern if needed .. best of both worlds for me.
scrappydoo
Well-Known Member
Hi Curt,
Any chance you could list the part numbers you used for all the parts you purchased from roackauto?
I'm guessing apart from the rotors and calipers you also need the brake hoses, banjo bolts, mount bolts...
Thanks.
BB73Challenger
Well-Known Member
Looks great!
I also did the Scarebird this spring and LOVE IT!
Stops even and smooth. I still run manual brakes and after going with the 7/8 bore master cylinder have great peddle effort.
That kit is well worth it!
Whose front end parts did you use for the re-build?
Kit or separate pieces?
I also did the Scarebird this spring and LOVE IT!
Stops even and smooth. I still run manual brakes and after going with the 7/8 bore master cylinder have great peddle effort.
That kit is well worth it!
Whose front end parts did you use for the re-build?
Kit or separate pieces?
I bought the rotors predrilled from Scare bird, so the only other parts required were Loaded Calipers and Brake Hoses. Calipers are from Chevy Celebrity and Hoses are Cadillac Eldorado. Everything else came with the scarebird kit. RAYBESTOS BH36959 Hydraulic Hose RAYBESTOS RC4233 Caliper RAYBESTOS BH36960 Hydraulic Hose RAYBESTOS RC4234 Caliper I also opted to replace by brake lines with SS ones from inline tube, and converted to a dual master cylinder. But that's a different story
I bought a kit from PST (p-s-t.com ). Seems to be a good quality kit, but didn't come with the inner rod ends. Sourced those seperately from Rockauto.com Curt.
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