Scat 4” cast crank?

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mbaird

mbaird
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Any opinions on scat cast crank for hot daily driver ?
Installing a 46rh install my Barracuda and while out I pulled the rear main cap to install new main seal . The bearings looked a bit iffy so I decided to replace them. Then I got thinking I should just get a 4” crank since I already have a set of .030 over Icon stroker pistons.
Whats opinions on a cheap Scat 4” crank to replace the magnum 5.9 crank ? Want to use stock rods, flex plate and balancer .

Anything else I need to address ?
 
It will need ballanced, and if it's done correctly, will require heavy metal to ballance internally. Probably cost as much as the crank did
 
BTW … engine has IMM ported heads , 1.7 Harland Sharp rockers , Dougs 1 5/8 headers , air gap and Oregon Cams 221/229 555 lift on a 112 cam
 
If they are flat top with no dish, you will have way to much compression
I run the same piston on my Swingers 408 with closed chamber W2 race heads . I will do the math but I can always use a Cometic gasket to make it right and hopefully keep my quench under .050
 
I run the same piston on my Swingers 408 with closed chamber W2 race heads . I will do the math but I can always use a Cometic gasket to make it right and hopefully keep my quench under .050
Just something to double check
 
Get hold of @PROSTOCKTOM and get some Molnar parts. Good stuff and you're supporting a member.
This car is a summer daily ( when Im not riding my dual sport or using the truck for camping/dirtbiking) and will seldom see over 5k rpm . No need for a max performance crank . I figure 450 hp maybe 500 ft-lbs.
 
This car is a summer daily ( when Im not riding my dual sport or using the truck for camping/dirtbiking) and will seldom see over 5k rpm . No need for a max performance crank . I figure 450 hp maybe 500 ft-lbs.
A Callies or Carrillo would be more toward that. Molnar would be what I'd consider perfect for what you want. I'd leave a Scat crank wherever it's layin.
 
Running 525+ on my other 408 forged scat up to 7k. Still together .
Have at it. I see about a 200 buck difference for the Molnar piece, which I consider a superior piece. I know which way I'd go. You are asking for advice. I wish you well.
 
This car is a summer daily ( when Im not riding my dual sport or using the truck for camping/dirtbiking) and will seldom see over 5k rpm . No need for a max performance crank . I figure 450 hp maybe 500 ft-lbs.

Add up the cost of what you have in the engine and ask yourself if the cost difference between a cast Scat crank and a 4340 Molnar steel crank are to much if that Scat crank breaks.

Building a short block is like building a house. You only get one chance to build the foundation correctly. If you do it wrong it will cost you monetarily and in extreme frustration.

To each their own though. :BangHead:

Tom
 
Last I looked he was at 900+ but that may have been forged .
 
There was a problem with one of the cast steel cranks breaking. A lot. I don't remember if it was the Scat or the Eagle. It was one or the other.
 

Any opinions on scat cast crank for hot daily driver ?
Installing a 46rh install my Barracuda and while out I pulled the rear main cap to install new main seal . The bearings looked a bit iffy so I decided to replace them. Then I got thinking I should just get a 4” crank since I already have a set of .030 over Icon stroker pistons.
Whats opinions on a cheap Scat 4” crank to replace the magnum 5.9 crank ? Want to use stock rods, flex plate and balancer .

Anything else I need to address ?
I used the Scat cast crank and I beam rods with Icon +0.040’’ in my stroker.
Got it all as a kit assembly.
All the parts are very good quality, all the clearances were spot on.
 
Can I use my stock balancer. rods will get bushed unless the cost adds up to new $.
Again .. this is not a race engine . I rarely go wide open in this car .
 
I used the Scat cast crank and I beam rods with Icon +0.040’’ in my stroker.
Got it all as a kit assembly.
All the parts are very good quality, all the clearances were spot on.
And that's really the rub. Cast or forged, good machine work, good parts and proper assembly are what's important.
 
Can I use my stock balancer
The assembled kit I got was internally balanced, so I had to use a 318-340 balancer. Not the 360 balancer.
You’ll need to check if the stroker crank is internally or externally balanced. That will dictate which balancer you use.
 
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