School me on Stock Eliminator?

-
Victory 273, The car looks great! I am a Mopar racer in both Stk & SS. If I may make a suggestion about racing, buy a finished car as close to what you would build! Light years cheaper! I race a C/SA 70RR 440-6pak, that I bought turn key, it's not pretty but it's a missle at 3949 # Which is about 49# heavy. The car is decent looking at 10 ft. In testing this year , on a 11.70 index it ran 10.46 @ 125.30,and that was short shifting. Stock elim is not real high maint, compared to SS which I also do with a 1965 Dodge coronet in SS/CA, which is real high maint. Valve springs @ $440.00 every 13-15 passes! And on a Hemi that is serious work. I forgot the origional cost to have the Hemi built including parts, $65,000 choke! And thats for a car that runs .9 tenths under the 10.35 index. I paid half of the engine price for the stocker! Enough of my babbling , still the best hobby on the planet! By the way i'm also pretty old, and just live to race! The Hemi car is for sale @ $100,000 John Lang #365 S/SS
 
hi, as a matter of fact i was going to test it at the track this weekend but i've been very busy at work plus the tnansmission tunnel has been a challange to fit, so i'm a little behind. i had it up and down the street a few times tho. i'll try to take a pic of it done and post on monday.
 
Didn't get out this weekend. But, I did take some pics. Just have to finish the tunnel and I'll be out as soon as possible.

Enjoy, I know I can't wait.

dfront2 small.jpg


drearsmall.jpg


pfront2 small.jpg


prear1 small.jpg
 
Holy crap! That thing is KILLER! Hope it hooks and goes as good as it looks.

Thanks for posting the pics, awesome job! :burnout:
 
Let's say I wanna run Stock Eliminator in my little 'ol '65 Valiant.

Can I...


use an aftermarket floor shifter like a Quarter Stick or Turbo Action?

use a Flaming River manual steering box instead of an original?

use Wilwood calipers and an MP aluminum master cylinder?

use A-100 van seats with A990 brackets instead of my bench seat?

use a safety bell for my 904 trans? (I would think so...)

use an MP aluminum differential housing for the 8 3/4?

use a gas tank sump?

use tubular control arms?

use an MSD ignition and distributor?

if I was to go with a 273 4bbl, could I use a more recent 'Competition Series' Carter AFB instead of the original?

May post more burning questions as I think of them.

Thanks!
 
hi, first, buy a NHRA rule book!!! It tells you what is legal and is required.
van seats are not allowed. alum center section is not allowed, tubular arms not allowed, carb has to be original or have same size bores and venturies and same location fuel inlet as original. original gas tank, no mods allowed, however a fuel cell can be installed in trunk on leui of stock tank. the rules are very specific as what is allowed and not allowed. stock is a thinking mans game. NHRA lists the casting numbers of heads, intakes, carbs required.
also, the chamber volumes, valve lifts, deck heights, and total piston/rod,ring weights., stock crank is required. just some things to consider. have fun.
 
After much soul-searching and thought, I've decided to keep my Valiant and turn it into a "stock eliminator style" 273 machine. I've spent a lot of time thinking about this. I've done some research and decided that this is something I can realistically achieve without spending huge amounts of money.

Some may know that i was trying to sell the car and that it was the original "memike" object of desire. I'll admit though that other than two people, I got no bites on the sale of the car, so something must be telling me to keep it. Sometimes things reveal themselves like that, I guess it's a matter of fate if you believe in that type of stuff. But I digress...

Plans for the 273 include a set of "legal" 302 heads, (which raise the comp. ratio significantly over the original heads) a 273 4BBL manifold, Carter 625 CFM AFB and (possibly) tti headers on top of a stout short block. I have a forged steel crank already. Have yet to figure what my comp. ratio needs to be and my rpm level. If I can make around 375 HP at the wheels, (approx. 2 hp/c.i.!!) I think that might do the trick. Tall order, yes! Am I deluding myself? Not sure, but I'm looking forward to the challenge of getting the little engine to run. The car is pretty light, so that will help.

Plans for the chassis include a Cal Trac set up with 9" slicks and frame connectors. A roll bar may be necessary, but that's likely down the road. The car has disk brakes in front. I have an 8 3/4 housing too. Need to figure out my gearing, I have a 4.10 center section right now, may need to go up to 4.30's.

I'm hoping to get into the low 12's to start and hopefully into the 11's eventually. The car fits into J/SA which is a 12.75 index. The current record for the class is 11.12 which I may never get close to, but I'd like to get to around an 11.75 someday. Naturally this will take a lot of effort, know how and practice.

It will start out as a bracket car so it won't be entirely legal to run in class. I think if I'm able to get it where I want ET-wise, I could change some components to make it legal for NHRA stock and go from there.

The car will need to be taken apart, but not completely. The interior is very good, so that will mean less work. I will need to get it painted and have some body work done, but hopefully it won't break the bank. I've been down this road before and unfortunately never completely finished the project. This time however I'm armed with more confidence, knowledge and experience and a car that does not require as much work.

I have no time table for this project. I am starting to gather parts already, so I will probably continue to do that over the summer. Perhaps I might get motivated and tear it apart one weekend, but probably not for a month or two, and at least not 'till after Carlisle where hopefully I can fill some holes on my parts list.

It's gonna be cool and if anything this car will be fairly unique. Would like to hear what people think, good, bad or indifferent.

Greg
 
Hello Greg. I've been racing my 71 340 Demon for over 30 years and every bit of advice that was given in this thread is something to listen to. The ebay stocker doesn't seem to be quite right since it's claimed to be running the 71 high compression engine but the car has a 72 grill and should be running the low compression engine combination. I've gone a best of 10.63 in testing in E/SA at Island dragway here in NJ just a couple of weeks ago and to run numbers like that, you reallly need a professional engine builder with the skills and knowledge to do the R&D to find every ounce of power that can be obtained. It's already been stated that the cost is quite high and believe me, it is, I know because I spent the money. As an example, an engine would be in the $15K + range, trans-$5K, headers, $4K for the really good stainles steel ones. You can't run the aluminum center section or A-100 seats, only the factory bench or buckets and you don't need any trans shield. The cam spec is only for lift with any duration, factory type rockers, no head porting, pistons and rods are from the NHRA approved list and if you run the stock fuel tank, it has to be completely stock with no sump added. Otherwise a fuel cell is allowed as are aftermarket disk brakes and wheelie bars if you need them. The list goes on and my best advice if you wanted to go stock eliminator racing, buy a car already done like the one on ebay. It'll save a ton of money and a bunch of time. Email me, I would love to answer any questions that you may have.

Ken
Edison, NJ
rider1454@aol.com

Wheel standing Demon.jpg
 
302 heads wont be legal; either. My advice would be to just build it the way you want it. No reason you cant make it look like a stocker.
 
Chrgr, when I mulled going Stock Eliminator racing, I attended as many Divisional races as my schedule allowed. It was the best education I ever got. Most racers with similar type cars usually pit together, were quite helpful when I explained what I was trying to do (and trust me, they can readily figure out if you're serious about this or not) and were not shy about putting me to work. I was able to listen in on pow-wows about converters, suspensions, tires, cams etc.

I finally purchased a race ready (??) 318 Dodge Aspen (F-body) and it about wore me out just trying to keep up. I had the time of my life and absolutely no regrets. But the time, work and dedication required might just surprise you. I'll be rooting for you bro !!!
 
Even if you don't go Stock racing, you can pick up a lot of ideas from the Stock guys. I have a very good friend of mine who ran in I/SA with a 72 Demon, and he's the guy who talks me out of the stupid stuff!
If you see two 71 Darts at a drag race, and one has a 340 with an iron manifold with a TQ on it, and the other is tubbed with a tunnel rammed 340 and the iron manifold car is 4 tenths faster, then I'd say that guy knows something! This was the sort of thing my friend Jim started pointing out to me when we would go to the strip.
A lot of these guys are frugal by necessity, and come up with some interesting solutions to making their cars work. Make some friends!
I hope whatever you do, you have fun with the car!
After all, if a 67 Coronet can run in the 13's with a 273 2V , there has to be ways to get power out of them! U/Stock, if memory serves. There was one in last years Mopar Action, exactly what issue escapes me at the moment. Stick it in a lightweight A body......
Alan627b
 
Any advice in making a 2bbl as quick and as consistent as possible? I'd like to get back into racing, but on my retirement budget. Can't compete with the high dollar guys, but thought that I might be able to have some fun with my stock '65 Dart setup. 16 second quarters is what I am looking for. Chassis is stiff with a rollbar setup, SS springs mounted into the longitudinals, fuel cell in trunk, 8 3/4 rear end with Moser axles (spare 3.23, 4.10, and 5.13 ratios available), trunk mount battery, fresh but stock 1965 273 2bbl and stock 1965 904 trans.
 
Stick it in a lightweight A body......


My thoughts exactly!

I also agree that picking up ideas from the stocker guys is a good way to approach a program. The whole idea is to optimize everything to it's fullest potential, even the front wheel bearings! t's a much more sound and thorough approach than opening up a Jeg's catalog and ordering all the latest shiny toys.
 
Hey Victory273 - how'd you make out with your car? It's been a few months.

Any time slips? Pics?
 
I've been to the track to test, best run was 11.37. The car launches then stumbles, I have since put in a deeper 1st gear and done some carb adjustments. I'm going this weekend to try again, hopefully it'll run better. I'll get some pics next week.
 
I've been to the track to test, best run was 11.37. The car launches then stumbles, I have since put in a deeper 1st gear and done some carb adjustments. I'm going this weekend to try again, hopefully it'll run better. I'll get some pics next week.

Sounds like you're getting there. Keep it up, hope to see you in the 10s soon. Looking forward to the pics.

Does it hang the hoops or what? 8)
 
Your car is cool! And .3 under already, way to go.
 
Car ran better this weekend. 10.94 @119.5 mph 1.45 60ft. Had a BLAST. No pics yet.

Wow, what a difference a day makes. That's a big improvement. Keep it up!

Not too many 273-powered cars in the 10s, that's a big accomplishment in and of itself.

How much under do you expect to run? What's the SS/K record?
 
Thanks, the record is at minimum, 10.80, so anything better than that would set it. There was a chevy 283 running 10.70 this past weekend, I'm still a little off. I'm going to Pierre S.D. for nhra national open on the 20th maybe therell be some good air to go fast in. I've got some hp ideas to work on over the winter I'm about 50 hp behind the 283's & 289's. Also I noticed that if you were interested in running in stock w/235 hp nhra dropped the hp rating down to 210, everything helps.
 
Thanks, the record is at minimum, 10.80, so anything better than that would set it. There was a chevy 283 running 10.70 this past weekend, I'm still a little off. I'm going to Pierre S.D. for nhra national open on the 20th maybe therell be some good air to go fast in. I've got some hp ideas to work on over the winter I'm about 50 hp behind the 283's & 289's. Also I noticed that if you were interested in running in stock w/235 hp nhra dropped the hp rating down to 210, everything helps.

Man, even the 'lower' classes are so quick these days. I hope you get to where you can start knocking down some rounds against the Novas.
 
-
Back
Top