Shifting question

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dustya_383

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Is there a way to shorten the throw on an a833?? Seems like the throws on these trannies is so long, I know it's the old skool feel and love banging through the gears but the throw is a bit long I have a pretty standard length shifter is there a way to fix this. Thanks guys
 
do you have a hurst competition plus shifter mechanism? what kind of shifter handle? standard A-body?
 
Yes, drill a new set of holes in the operating levers on the transmission closer to the attaching nut. This is assuming everything is tight and the shifter and rod ends aren't worn out causing a bunch of slop.
 
Hurst
IMG_0306_zpse8b53b12.jpg
short throw narrow gate
 
LOL. You should try one of the old "B" body shifters, 65, 70, pistol grip...............

http://apicdn.viglink.com/api/click...DQOx8Sfoq453ZxlUg&sig2=MHoX5XLgMTLK2BnGNv_2_g


Couldn't load the link for some reason will check on my laptop to see if it works



do you have a hurst competition plus shifter mechanism? what kind of shifter handle? standard A-body?

Hey James I'm using a standard hurst shifter mechanism I believe. With a standard a body shifter here is a pic of shifter

BF4DC878-017E-452C-99E2-9919F9C0D066-14068-00000D4D0C169105_zps7faca47a.jpg


B27C58BA-6522-4BA5-B083-5B76FC1C0B9F-31055-000003553E25E5DF_zps86ffcb18.jpg
 
Yes, drill a new set of holes in the operating levers on the transmission closer to the attaching nut. This is assuming everything is tight and the shifter and rod ends aren't worn out causing a bunch of slop.

I may try this see how it turns out
 
Couldn't load the link for some reason will check on my laptop to see if it works





Hey James I'm using a standard hurst shifter mechanism I believe. With a standard a body shifter here is a pic of shifter

BF4DC878-017E-452C-99E2-9919F9C0D066-14068-00000D4D0C169105_zps7faca47a.jpg


B27C58BA-6522-4BA5-B083-5B76FC1C0B9F-31055-000003553E25E5DF_zps86ffcb18.jpg

Thats not an a body handle. More like GM
 
There are three viable options.
1. different shifter
2. longer levers at the bottom of the shifter.
3. shorter handle
 
Drilling the shift levers? I tried that "once" and they turned out to be HARD. As in "hardened."
 
These are factory shifters. The one by itself on the bottom is not factory. The 4th one from the left is the factory A body one used in 68 and up A body cars.

attachment.php
 
hi, in order to drill shift arms, you have to heat them up to red color, let them cool down slowly, now you can drill them ,afterwards, reheat to red and sumurge them in water to harden them up. it works, cause thats how I did mine. it shortened throw from 4 " to 3" travel at top of tower. also i used a straight short stick.just food for thought
 
shim your shift rods so that they don't wiggle...that and a comp plus will have it shifting like a Porsche. A lot of the movement is rod deflection. It takes some time unless you have teeny weenie really flexible hands.
I have an assortment of shims and clips that I gathered to do mine.

It really works!
 
These are factory shifters. The one by itself on the bottom is not factory. The 4th one from the left is the factory A body one used in 68 and up A body cars.

attachment.php

Hmm well glad in only paid 20 bucks for it he wanted 80 hahah well I still like it but would prefer an abody shifter

shim your shift rods so that they don't wiggle...that and a comp plus will have it shifting like a Porsche. A lot of the movement is rod deflection. It takes some time unless you have teeny weenie really flexible hands.
I have an assortment of shims and clips that I gathered to do mine.

It really works!


I may try this first maybe I can sell the shifter assembly I have now and buy a competition one also there is quite a bit of play in the shifter as well

What kind of shims did you use ?? Have any pics and where to get em thanks
 
shim your shift rods so that they don't wiggle...that and a comp plus will have it shifting like a Porsche. A lot of the movement is rod deflection. It takes some time unless you have teeny weenie really flexible hands.
I have an assortment of shims and clips that I gathered to do mine.

It really works!

I did this as well. I thought I could improve upon the original Hurst/ pistol grip shifter in my 70 RR so bought a Competition plus. Turns out even back then (1972 'er so) Hust had QC problems. The new Comp Plus arms were sloppy on the shafts. I played with feeler gauges until I got a size that fit tight, then cut little short pieces and jammed them in between the rectangle on the shaft and the arm slots. The nuts held them captive.

That project was also why I was attempting to drill shift arms. The Comp Plus arms are different, bushed, while the factory ones were not bushed. I was trying to drill the factory arms, which fit tight, for the Comp Plus bushings.
 
Check the number on your shifter box reverse arm. If it's something other than 6353, it's not likely the correct one.
 
here's another A-body shift handle, with Hurst Comp Plus shifter and Brewers Shift levers.
 

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Drilling the shift levers? I tried that "once" and they turned out to be HARD. As in "hardened."

Yeah, they're case hardened. You either have to heat and cool them or grind the spot you want to drill down to the softer metal so you don't nuke the tip of the drill bit.
 
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