Shop insulating advice

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Phreakish said:
The only reason I've piped up is to maybe give you some ideas as you go and things to think about in case it fits with you goals.
Your plan will work, but there's potential for issues depending on your exact climate. The best I could do would be to look st maps and regional hvac chats, but that doesn't fill in all the blanks for a perfect job. If something does happen, it won't be anything that can't be fixed later though. So, keep on it and address **** as it comes up. I'd rather have to spray every peice of steel in the shop with fluid film than freeze my nuts off doing a January cam break-in again!
I've been down similar roads before and burned an absolute ***-ton of time and money trying to save things not worth saving a while destroying my back and shoulders. At some point you sit back and ask "why didn't I!?".. Or not, ymmv!
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I really appreciate your input, everyone’s input. It is good to learn about this stuff. You all know way more about this than I do that’s for sure.

Fun story-
Had a patient today. I asked Him if he kept warm this weekend and stayed inside. It was 0 degrees to 10 degrees all weekend. His response - I was working in my shop all weekend. Well conversation ensued. He has a 30x something pole barn, 1.5 foam board on the walls and roof and a small wood stove. Said he wakes up, goes outside and lights the fire, goes inside eats breakfast and drinks coffee. After 2 hours his shop is 50+ degrees and he was able to work out there all day with some warm clothes on…

That’s all I need. I don’t need and cannot afford a climate controlled time capsule mopar holding facility…. My cars aren’t that nice lol. Maybe after 30 years of being a dentist I could afford something like that… but with the way inflation is going probably not lol.

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All that I used for years in my 30 x 60 with 10' ceiling. R 20 in the walls and R 52 in the ceiling and Granma's parlour stove... Electric heater set for 48F so nothing froze in the shop overnight.
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DentalDart said:
I really appreciate your input, everyone’s input. It is good to learn about this stuff. You all know way more about this than I do that’s for sure.

Fun story-
Had a patient today. I asked Him if he kept warm this weekend and stayed inside. It was 0 degrees to 10 degrees all weekend. His response - I was working in my shop all weekend. Well conversation ensued. He has a 30x something pole barn, 1.5 foam board on the walls and roof and a small wood stove. Said he wakes up, goes outside and lights the fire, goes inside eats breakfast and drinks coffee. After 2 hours his shop is 50+ degrees and he was able to work out there all day with some warm clothes on…

That’s all I need. I don’t need and cannot afford a climate controlled time capsule mopar holding facility…. My cars aren’t that nice lol. Maybe after 30 years of being a dentist I could afford something like that… but with the way inflation is going probably not lol.

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exactly!!!
 
Dana67Dart said:
Doc what happened to that 68?

Oh wait. That's a 3rd one isn't it!
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It’s a wrecked one I was able to get to supply me with the small bits and pieces for the swinger. I’m not sure if it’s a 68 or a 67, because the title says 67.
 
Damn man, That thing looks like a good car, Not bits and pieces,

Hold that bone for a bit.
 
DentalDart said:
I’m not sure if it’s a 68 or a 67, because the title says 67.
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67 will have vin on door piller.

68 up on dash

It has a 67 hood with the dodge letters.


If the bumper has the backup lights in it that's another giveaway.

No side marker lights is 67 but that can be added.

Interior is 67 specific too.


It doesn't look too bad not fixable?
 
DentalDart said:
I really appreciate your input, everyone’s input. It is good to learn about this stuff. You all know way more about this than I do that’s for sure.

Fun story-
Had a patient today. I asked Him if he kept warm this weekend and stayed inside. It was 0 degrees to 10 degrees all weekend. His response - I was working in my shop all weekend. Well conversation ensued. He has a 30x something pole barn, 1.5 foam board on the walls and roof and a small wood stove. Said he wakes up, goes outside and lights the fire, goes inside eats breakfast and drinks coffee. After 2 hours his shop is 50+ degrees and he was able to work out there all day with some warm clothes on…

That’s all I need. I don’t need and cannot afford a climate controlled time capsule mopar holding facility…. My cars aren’t that nice lol. Maybe after 30 years of being a dentist I could afford something like that… but with the way inflation is going probably not lol.

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Click to expand...

I have a 36x40 pole barn, condensation blanket in the roof and some plywood on the walls to protect the metal. It's cold, we were down to -16 (felt like almost -40 according to the internet) at my place over the weekend. Batteries to cold to start kind of cold. It sucks!

In the spring, every few years, we'll get what they call Chinook winds that will blow in and temps will go from highs of 20s to 60! The problem is that the warm air sucks all that water out of the snow and when a car or peice of equipment is cold soaked the warm air will piss all over everything. I had water flowing out of my barn as it streamed off every cold surface on 5 cars! Cars that were (mostly) rust free that now have rust on every fastener or clean spot (rotors get roached). The main reason I want to insuakte my barn is to avoid this.. If the cars are kept above the dew point they won't sweet. Think of a cold glass on a summer day. Either the air needs to be kept cool to prevent the dew point rising, or the car needs to be warm to prevent condensation formation. Same goes for house and shop walls, windows, doors, etc.

Buddy of mine has a 60x100 including the dried in lean to. The main 60x80 is 8" lumber with spray foam, r65 ceiling mix of foam and glass and r-oh-my-god roll up doors. He keeps it at 55 with a furnace and it costs him something like $150/m ollo more than just the house alone.
 
I thought that 67/68 was Brian's old car for a moment. The one that got stolen and recovered
 
DentalDart said:
I really appreciate your input, everyone’s input. It is good to learn about this stuff. You all know way more about this than I do that’s for sure.

Fun story-
Had a patient today. I asked Him if he kept warm this weekend and stayed inside. It was 0 degrees to 10 degrees all weekend. His response - I was working in my shop all weekend. Well conversation ensued. He has a 30x something pole barn, 1.5 foam board on the walls and roof and a small wood stove. Said he wakes up, goes outside and lights the fire, goes inside eats breakfast and drinks coffee. After 2 hours his shop is 50+ degrees and he was able to work out there all day with some warm clothes on…

That’s all I need. I don’t need and cannot afford a climate controlled time capsule mopar holding facility…. My cars aren’t that nice lol. Maybe after 30 years of being a dentist I could afford something like that… but with the way inflation is going probably not lol.

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Like I aid...small wood stove!!
There is a co. that builds wood trusses on old 66 most of the way to Carthage.
Mo.barnbarn co/ use the Mo. by seat ofpats engineering/
I had 2 indoor arenas built over the years on Mo. one 50 wide other 60 wide. Both built by Minenittes they are sorta more modern ish Amish type, both built with NO crane just manpower.
 
dowboy1970 said:
Damn man, That thing looks like a good car, Not bits and pieces,

Hold that bone for a bit.
Click to expand...

Dana67Dart said:
67 will have vin on door piller.

68 up on dash

It has a 67 hood with the dodge letters.


If the bumper has the backup lights in it that's another giveaway.

No side marker lights is 67 but that can be added.

Interior is 67 specific too.


It doesn't look too bad not fixable?
Click to expand...

See above. Fixable if you can replace all of the body panels… which I cannot. Plus for the price to replace them all you could buy another decent shell to start over with.
 
Phreakish said:
I have a 36x40 pole barn, condensation blanket in the roof and some plywood on the walls to protect the metal. It's cold, we were down to -16 (felt like almost -40 according to the internet) at my place over the weekend. Batteries to cold to start kind of cold. It sucks!

In the spring, every few years, we'll get what they call Chinook winds that will blow in and temps will go from highs of 20s to 60! The problem is that the warm air sucks all that water out of the snow and when a car or peice of equipment is cold soaked the warm air will piss all over everything. I had water flowing out of my barn as it streamed off every cold surface on 5 cars! Cars that were (mostly) rust free that now have rust on every fastener or clean spot (rotors get roached). The main reason I want to insuakte my barn is to avoid this.. If the cars are kept above the dew point they won't sweet. Think of a cold glass on a summer day. Either the air needs to be kept cool to prevent the dew point rising, or the car needs to be warm to prevent condensation formation. Same goes for house and shop walls, windows, doors, etc.

Buddy of mine has a 60x100 including the dried in lean to. The main 60x80 is 8" lumber with spray foam, r65 ceiling mix of foam and glass and r-oh-my-god roll up doors. He keeps it at 55 with a furnace and it costs him something like $150/m ollo more than just the house alone.
Click to expand...

My swinger is 100% rust free and my purple car is 95% rust free and I want to keep them that way.

It’s been super cold here this past week and my truck has not been wanting to start with the key fob. Sounds like the battery is drained. I have been having to Walk Outside to start my truck in the morning, Not Fun! :mad:
 
Doc you might want to get a battery warmer and or a block heater.


Since I picked up 67 Dart Convert #2 our minivan has to sit outside with our 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2


It was 0 to -12 here for the past 3 days. My Jeep with a 5.2 cranked so slow I did not think it would going to fire but it did. The clock lost its time that's how low the voltage got dropped down to.

My minivan also cranked slower than normal but it too started.

If your truck is outside and will not start, it could be the battery is near end of life?

I have a NOCO GB 70 jump start battery a bit pricy but well worth the price the first time you need to use it. You can find it on sale from time to time.

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Another possibility...

This happened to my daughter.

She lived 2 minutes from her work and drove every day, but she did not drive more than that and after a few weeks her battery was dead.

She never drove it long enough to recharge what she lost starting the car. The battery was about 3 to 4 years old at this point.
 
I just gotta make the point, that car was way nicer when Brian had it.

:poke:
 
I have the fix for your sliding door. When I built my building 30 yrs ago I used some left over 1/2" foam board to fill in the spaces between the boards and bought some cheap white paneling to cover it up. It never did a good job as the wind blew right through the door. So last year I bought 1 1/2" foam board and cut it to fit tight between the boards on the door and then taped around it with Tyvek tape to make it air tight. Then I bought some .060" thick 4x8 sheets of vinyl panels that are used in wet rooms to cover the walls and put them up on the inside. The door still operates just fine. I then bought these garage door seals from the Depot and mounted them on the inside. They are vinyl, come in white and brown, with a good lip seal that will seal off the door around the edges. Now the door is airtight and I can heat the shop (40x30x12) easy with the heater (50,000 btu) I have.
I used white roofing tin as the ceiling screwed right to the bottom of the trusses, and put a piece of 1/2" foam board on top of it between the trusses and then blew in 8" of fiberglass on top. I have no problems heating or cooling my shop.

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DentalDart said:
I’ve gotten some great advice so far in my car build threat but want some more from others who may have done this. Mainly for sweating in a metal building.

I started with an uninsulated 40x40 shop with a 17ft peak. I have a 30x40 shop but want to use the 40x40 as main shop due to it being much bigger and the roof being able to be raised much higher. Plus it’s a shorter walk from the house.

I started with 2in foam boards on the walls, with spray foam filling the gaps and cracks.

My question- dealing with sweating inside. I plan on doing mini splits in it this spring, raising the trusses to gain more clearance for a lift/lifts inside it. I will also insulate the roof and finally I will cover the walls and roof with OSB.

Do I fill in all of the cracks between the roof and the walls? What about the crack all the way up the peak? Do I seal up the gable vents as well? To prevent any extra air from getting into the building?

Also the big sliding door sucks for sealing up… should I make it a giant roll up door?

FYI… yes I know it’s much harder doing this while the shop is occupied with junk. But… it’s what I am doing.

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Spray foam.
 
GTXDAN said:
I have the fix for your sliding door. When I built my building 30 yrs ago I used some left over 1/2" foam board to fill in the spaces between the boards and bought some cheap white paneling to cover it up. It never did a good job as the wind blew right through the door. So last year I bought 1 1/2" foam board and cut it to fit tight between the boards on the door and then taped around it with Tyvek tape to make it air tight. Then I bought some .060" thick 4x8 sheets of vinyl panels that are used in wet rooms to cover the walls and put them up on the inside. The door still operates just fine. I then bought these garage door seals from the Depot and mounted them on the inside. They are vinyl, come in white and brown, with a good lip seal that will seal off the door around the edges. Now the door is airtight and I can heat the shop (40x30x12) easy with the heater (50,000 btu) I have.
I used white roofing tin as the ceiling screwed right to the bottom of the trusses, and put a piece of 1/2" foam board on top of it between the trusses and then blew in 8" of fiberglass on top. I have no problems heating or cooling my shop.

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That's what I did with mine, steel ceiling 10" blown in. Then I put 1/2 foam rolls on the walls. I heat it with an oil filled radiator and an electric wall heater. 6 above here last night -11 wind chill 50 inside with the heat on low.
 
@GTXDAN and @Carnut68 sounds like a great idea on the door. It looks like Dan has a 2nd closing/locking mechanism on the sliding door, I only have 1 so I’ll add a second to help pull it tight on both sides.

My shop is already staying much more warm, but it struggles to go from 10 degrees to 50, but it’s no where near being done and airtight yet. It’s to cold for me to be working in it the past 2 weekends. Next weekend it is supposed to be in the Mid to high 40s and I’ll try to go out there then.

By my calculations I’ll need about 60 more foam boards to do the roof before covering it.
 
You'll get there it just takes time. I worked in mine probably 10 years before I got the ceiling in. Talk about heating a barn. I didn't do much work in the winter.
 
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