Should I get a new master cylinder?

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Chained_360

Chained_360

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So, I have a 1968 Barracuda that was sitting for 15 years before I bought it. It runs and drives, but the brakes are rather abysmal. I opened up the master cylinder to check the brake fluid, and it looked like pond water. Should I get a rebuild kit or should I just replace the whole thing? They're only like $40 at Napa...
 
Replace for sure. For that amount $$, no need to mess around. You can be sure that the wheel cylinders are just as bad. And the flexible lines to the front and to the rear axle are very likely totally shot and can collapse internally, holding a brake on. With the age of the car, and the sitting, I'd be doing a full brake system overhaul.... no question about it.
 
If it looks like that the wheel cylinders are probably about the same... Good time to pull them apart and make sure they aren't pitted. May need to do a hone job on them.
 
mguner said:
If it looks like that the wheel cylinders are probably about the same... Good time to pull them apart and make sure they aren't pitted. May need to do a hone job on them.
Click to expand...

X2. I would flush the whole system, replace the master, and rebuild or replace the cylinders / calipers. Inspect the entire system stem to stern, looking for rusty / crimped / otherwise damaged lines, and consider replacing the flex hoses. I bet 150 would buy all the parts.
 
Awesome, thanks guys. I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't doing any rash purchasing, as I'm kinda new around here and the mopar world. I'll definitely get to work on an overhaul, the parts are actually pretty cheap (only $166.15, close guess 67Dart273) for an older vehicle :) Thanks for the help!
 
Maybe better yet, post a picture of your master. If it is an "original" disk/drum type some of Us may be intrested in giving you more than the replacement core charge to purchase it!
 
I have a wheel cylinder hone, but haven't fooled with it in years since I found the rebuild kits were $2 and a complete wheel cylinder was $5. If you don't care about original, and want to save weight and add bling, you can install a later 2-bolt aluminum MC on a 2 to 4 bolt adapter plate, for about the same cost as a new original cast-iron MC. The reservoirs seal better and most have a low-level warning switch. Many posts.
 
Well, I'm not sure as to how worried I should be about originality. Basically the entire powertrain is basically all aftermarket. The previous owner dropped in a pretty hefty 360 small block with a 904 behind it, tied to a limited slip rear end with 3.23 gears. As far as I'm concerned, everything else about the car is original except for the passenger side door. I'm gonna take the master cylinder to shop class tomorrow, and see what my instructor has to say about it
 
Betcha he says the same things you read here, and if he doesn't I'd be questioning his ability to be teaching a shop class. :D
 
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