Should I tear it back apart?

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dgully

dgully

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Ok, I screwed up, got in a hurry assembled the 416 and was thinking,,,,, crap I forgot to drill holes in the oil galley plugs for the timing chain... should I pull it all apart to drill holes? I know the answer. How else does the chain get oil?

Thanks
 
I'd really like to see proof of the need for this......of all the windage going on in the crankcase, I'd think there's plenty of oil slung around in there. The front main....all by itself......leaks oil
 
There are no holes in the galley plugs. The only hole is the bolt on the upper right camshaft hold down plate. It's get oil from the lifter valley and drips thru the hole in the bolt.
 
Leave it together. Millions of Mopars didn't have the oil hole.
 
Read here for what can happen if you drill a hole in the gallery plug too large: Crabby oil pressure problem

If it is of concern, remove the timing cover and then the upper passenger side timing thrust plate bolt, and drill a small hole through the bolt, and re-install. No shavings in the engine that way. Or just pull that bolt out.
 
Ok, but I remember there was no hole in the cam shaft retainer bolt... so is it still ok? Iam just building a light to light engine
 
Did an oil slinger or drip plate go in?
If no slinger, no drip plate and no drilled bolt I'd be a little annoyed about that and wouldn't expect my timing chain and sprockets to last.
 
Remember, there is oil that leaks/flows out of the front main bearing, and then runs out to the crank timing sprocket and then works up the chain to the cam sprocket. I don't know why any timing setup would not last well with that positive oiling source.

Anything else is a 'belt & suspenders' approach IMHO. I woulda done that just because, but, if it was not there, I wouldn't go to any big trouble to add it.
 
Early motors had the drilled bolt which oiled from the lifter galley. Later motors have the drip plate and directs oil leakage from the forward cam bearing and thrust plate. #1 main oil leakage slings everywhere also.
 
Gooday
Why dont you remove the fuel pump & run the motor looking inside for how much oil is being splashed around to dertimine if the chain is getting oiled?
 
I put a magnum tensioner and drip tab on mine and when I was tightening it back on the bolt with the hole snapped in half, and I had to use an extractor.

I tore apart my 73 318 junk motor for a replacement bolt, and it did not have the hole in it... I just torqued everything to spec and put it back together, with the standard bolt.

I am not sure what the torque specs are for those special bolts, but it is certainly less than the standard ones.
 
Ok, since I can't give it away... I'll run it and let you all know what happens LOL.
Thanks for the replies
 
I think the double roller chain will be fine.It will probably outlast your valvejob anyway. Or your non-FelPro .039 headgaskets.Or your flat-tappet cam.....if you have one.
If nothing else, you have several years to worry about it.
I imagine that oiler was for the plastic-toothed teener chains
 
I have ran more SB mopars without the hole in the bolt, without the slinger and never had an issue with timing chain/gears lube problem.
 
I didn't run the oil tab or hollow bolt in mine. Mainly because they weren't present when I tore the motor apart! I turn 6-K in my teener on the regular with no issues. I do however run the MP moly coated fuel pump eccentric and drilled the galley and thrust plate. Runs like a champ!
 
Last 340 I had apart for a cam swap had no oil hole in the bolt, no drip plate but had the oil slinger. Timing chain was good to reuse. I would run it.
 
I've left the top left bolt out of the cam retainer, and just used two bolts. Oil drains from the valley onto the drip plate, oiling the chain and fuel pump eccentric
 
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