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This is a great thread and would loce to see more home made tools added...
End of the week and I had to get the Dart put back together. only problem is no spring compressor and no more money!? solution, make one using an old rocker arm. aint pretty but it works well. other one is my vise that I ground one end to use as a connecting rod splitter. make due with what you got.
some of mine home made paper towel dispenser. home made beaver dam buster
picture is of the bead roller i made. I cant find the pics for the sheet metal brake, slip rolls, english wheel, ring roller, tracer for the oxy/propane torch, Also in the works of building a cutter to cut splines for an 8 3/4 axle shafts on the bridgeport.
Great post. Looks like there are several smart folks here. The most usefull tool i have made that worked out very well was the long sockets for adjusting the side play on the 8.75. Now part of the arsenal. Small Block. #2997
C:\Documents and Settings\Scott\My Documents\My Pictures\porting tool This is a tool for the small block porters out there that DARTJACK made,so copy and paste and check it out,mrmopartech
Doesn't seem to work Scott. I think cause that's not a website, just where it's stored on your hard drive.
Just had to add this tool I made today -a homemade control arm bushing puller .Total cost in materials $10.59 . I used a 2"W X 3"L threaded pipe with cap.Drilled hole off center ran allthread down the middle . Tighten the nuts and the bushing slides right out! Didn't take too much effort either. I did soak the a-arms in evaporust overnight.Should work just as well to install the new bushings .
that control arm tool is the cats meow
Thanks daredevil I'm quite happy with it . :-D
Great idea!! Thanks for posting.
Here is my home built press, Torqueflite clutch spring compressor and A-833 bearing installer. The bearing tool is a piece of pipe with an old bearing race welded to one end and a piece of solid steel on the other. They all look a little crude, but each one has saved me money.
A while back, I changed the 7-1/4 rear out for an 8-1/4 and installed a Powertrax locker, new bearings and seals and new pinion seal. To keep the pinion from turning while replacing the seal, I put a piece of thick wall pipe in one of the drive shaft u-joints and rested it on the leaf spring while loosening the pinion nut. Of course I marked the locations of the nut,housing and yoke so I could get it all lined back up properly. When I had the new seal in place, I simply moved the pipe to the other side to tighten to the required 225 ft. lbs. All my marks lined right up and I didn't have to fight with the pinion moving around.
Great idea's 4spdcuda66. That press looks like it's plenty tough. Better than my 20 ton store bought one for sure.
It does pretty good. I have it set up so I can change out the hydraulic rams, the one in the photo is a ten ton. It works great for the lower control arm bushings,removal and installation.
This worked great while the k frame was out it gives lots of movement in any direction just put a floor jack under the rear end and push anywhere. Don't try to use it with the engine in. If you made it out of metal and welded it maybe. The casters are off an old walk behind mower.
I did basically the same with mine when I redid it but I didn't have pics. Thanks for adding.
Here are a few. The first is a Allen head bolt welded on another. The allen head is the perfect size for most trident gear clamps. Makes it very simple to tighten or change clamp. A water filter for my grit blaster,works great. Two 6 inch wrenches,cut and welded together. Stick it in your back pocket on Saturday morning when you are out doing little chores in the yard, comes in handy. When I take the sand out of the blaster I screen it to take the crap out and reuse the sand,simple but it works.
This is about as simple as it gets. A 2 foot piece of 2X4 with a large dado down the center. Back side has a short piece of electrical conduit glued in with epoxy. How to use? Install on the floor jack, lay an old towel over it and set the door into the slot. It allows me to lift and hold the door in place while I fiddle around with hinge bolts.
Great idea!! I haven't done a door change in yrs. but I remember fighting with them and that sure looks like it'd make it alot easier. Thanks for adding to the list.
i got the blueprint for free for this rotisserie. i love it. it cost about half the price to build one as apposed to buying one. took 2 days to build. was well worth it. if i did another one, though, i would build it about 6 inches taller. unless i change all the mounting brackets around, i can only turn the demon on a 90 degree angle. if it were taller, i could flip the car completely over.
Man that looks great! Can you just whack the uprights in half and extend them to make it taller? I know it wouldn't look as pretty but it'd be more useful cause you could turn the car completely over.
yeah, i already have another design in the works. i know a guy that wants this one, so, i figured, when i m done with it, i ll sell it to him.
Hi all, have spent the last couple of days reading over things here and then I found this one. Knew it must be a good hangout if Mrmopartech is here too........remember him from the very early days of Allpar, before you even had to register there to post. Anyways, here are a few things that have been accumulated and I'd enjoy sharing, if it makes life easier for some. Top: Rough and ready Pitman arm puller, 7/8" threaded rod and captured nut. Middle: Extended 9/16" socket (with pipe + 1/2" coupling nut) for reaching those pesky "J" bolt gas tank nuts. Bottom: Thread chasers for cleaning out threads like on those "J" bolts (so they don't twist off) Sometimes it is the only thing that will get in there. Made up as the situation arose.
A few more......... Top: Sockets are a thin strip wrapped around a new ball joint, tacked and then welded to a length of 2" pipe. Blocked off with a 3/4" square hole banged in the end for a 3/4" drive handle. Middle: Same B.J's with a special 15MM wrench to grab the spring tensioner (belt) on a 3.0L Caravan. Steering wheel puller. Bottom: Removes/installs oval leaf spring bushings.