Slant 6 lift points

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yooper822

yooper822

Joe Roberts
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Ishpeming, Mi
What are the preferred lift points (chain attach points) for the 6 with the tranny installed?
 
There are 2 bosses cast in the head between the valve cover and the intake/exhaust just for this. They are already tapped 3/8" coarse thread and look something like this......

Slant hoist chain 002.jpg

Using these lift points puts the nose of the engine slightly up with a transmission attached at almost an ideal angle for lifting over the radiator support. Make sure you drain the transmission first or you will have a big mess when all the fluid runs out of the tailshaft. The next picture gives you a better idea of where the bosses are on the head. Hope this helps.

Slant hoist chain 003.jpg

Slant hoist chain 002.jpg


Slant hoist chain 003.jpg
 
Sorry to revive such an old thread but I find myself facing the same questions.....pulling a slant 6 from a 1980 Volare.

Those two little bolts are adequate for lifting the whole engine out????

And would there be any issue in not pulling the transmission at the same time?
 
No problem with not pulling the trans... that is my general preference.

And yes they will hold.... use grade 5 bolts or better. I suspect the factory process would be to use both bolts to mount a plate with a hole in it for a hook. But, I am kinda like you..... that seems pretty lightweight, and so I used a second safety chain loosely around the manifolds as a back up.
 
nm9stheham said:
No problem with not pulling the trans... that is my general preference.

And yes they will hold.... use grade 5 bolts or better. I suspect the factory process would be to use both bolts to mount a plate with a hole in it for a hook. But, I am kinda like you..... that seems pretty lightweight, and so I used a second safety chain loosely around the manifolds as a back up.
Click to expand...
Thanks......so ypu suggest leaving the manifolds on for the lifting?

Also, I am borrowing an engine crane but buying an engine stand at harbor freight. I was gonna go for the heavy-duty one with the two legs out the front.

I am also thinking about buying their "load leveler".......since I will be working on a slightly inclined driveway plus for the ability to more easily position coming in and out. From what I am told the slant 6 is more difficult due to its length.....

Should I go for the 3/4 ton leveler orb their 2 ton model?
 
Story is the factory plan was a shop would lift from only one of the holes, front hole for engine alone, rear hole for engine + tranny. But, seems smarter to use both and a leveler. I am cheap so just use a turnbuckle between 2 chains to adjust the tilt. Coming out the top, you will need to remove the hood. Best to drill 2 small alignment holes in each side before you unbolt it, otherwise you will spend hours trying to get it aligned again. I understand, the factory had a guy inside the empty bay to tighten the bolts when they fit the hood. If you need to rebuild suspension and steering, consider pulling the whole K-frame w/ engine out the bottom (tranny too) by lifting the car body up and rolling the assembly out. Search for posts w/ photos. I think the factory installed them from the bottom like that.
 
I never have drilled any alignment hole for the hood..... just make some marks where the hinges meet the hood.

The /6 is not in anyway particularly hard to pull/install IMHO. I'd not bother with the K-frame if I had a hoist. I can pull one in an hour or so with a hoist... the exhaust connection bolts are usually the one snag.

Just be careful of the slope; with the engine weight, the lift may really want to roll. Don't get a finger or toe under there. It depends on how steep it is.
 
Thanks. I saved that photo. The engine in the foreground might be the one in my 64 Valiant. Re lifting, someone here found one of those factory lifting plates. Some might have wound up at dealers. Perhaps the reference to lifting from the front or rear holes didn't refer to the bolt holes in the top of the head, but rather to the two big holes in the lifting plate. I wonder what the tube snaking around the front is. A smaller tube comes around the rear. Both terminate on a special plate bolted to the power steering mount pad. Perhaps used for filling fluids
 
BillGrissom said:
Thanks. I saved that photo. The engine in the foreground might be the one in my 64 Valiant. Re lifting, someone here found one of those factory lifting plates. Some might have wound up at dealers. Perhaps the reference to lifting from the front or rear holes didn't refer to the bolt holes in the top of the head, but rather to the two big holes in the lifting plate. I wonder what the tube snaking around the front is. A smaller tube comes around the rear. Both terminate on a special plate bolted to the power steering mount pad. Perhaps used for filling fluids
Click to expand...
I bought some bolts and washers this morning for lifting....they had some heavy angle iron at the hardware store I almost bought to make my own lift "plate" but decided that since others used just the bolts I should be OK.....crossing fingers. LOL

Right now working on getting the clips for the trans fluid pipes off and the torque convertor bolts....

NO BOG CENTER BOLT ON THE CRANK like I am used to on my LA 318......so what is the best way to turn the engine by hand??? Gonna pull the plugs to make it easier.....
 
My damper has 3 5/16 bolts for attaching an additional pulley to the front of it.

I used 3 grade 8 bolts attached there to turn the engine over (no plugs)
 
It looks to me like the black one looped around the thermostat housing is the negative battery cable. Can't figure out what the tubing is though.

The front of the crank IS tapped. It is 3/4-16 UNF. Mine was clogged with debris.
 
KosmicKuda said:
....Can't figure out what the tubing is though......
Click to expand...

To the best of my knowledge (which isn't much!!), Australia is right hand drive, so to make room for the steering box on the slant six, they run an outside oiling system......don't know more than this....
 
Some one posted a pix in the Small Block section on an Aussie V8 with an upside-down remote filter mounted up over the valve cover. So the tube under the front looks like it is going to a remote filter mount on the lower left front. There is a 2nd tube running back behind the exhaust manifold. Makes sense. Thanks for the photo!
 
Oiling tubes for an Aussie engine makes sense. Here is a photo of a 64 in Malaysia a member here posted a few years back. They also drive on the left-side of the road. It has an external oil filter. He installed a custom bracket for a Sanden compressor, so may have re-plumbed the front tube. Also note the different starter motor.

Sanden brackets - 1966DartConvertible.jpg
 
are those Waternecks bossed for alternators or are these generator motors? Remote oil filter ala Mercedes Benz is correct from another member down under.
 
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