slant 6 to big block plain and simple

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Bush

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Never done it, wondering how much work it is. Would I be better off getting a car that had a v8?
 
either find a big block K member, conversion mounts from the slant six K to BB mounts, or a motor plate.
 
805moparkid said:
either find a big block K member, conversion mounts from the slant six K to BB mounts, or a motor plate.
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I have seen those conversion mounts are they worth using or more trouble than what they are worth?
 
Bush said:
I have seen those conversion mounts are they worth using or more trouble than what they are worth?
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i'll be honest and say i dont know, i just know the options. i went and found a BB k for my 65 belvedere but being its now an AWB factory mounts wont work.

what are you planning with the car? street strip, warmed up near stock BB?
 
Bush said:
Never done it, wondering how much work it is. Would I be better off getting a car that had a v8?
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If you have a V8 car it will most likely have a 8 3/4 rear. Other than that it makes no difference. No, the swap isn't much work.

Bush said:
I have seen those conversion mounts are they worth using or more trouble than what they are worth?
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Schumacher mouts are ok if you have a spool mmount K member. I would not use them if you have biscuit mounts. YOu have to cut the **** out of it and then run a torque strap of some sorts. You can end up with major oil pump clearence issues and the mount becomes pretty weak.

72ScampTramp said:
Tech pages on Big Block Dart are hard to beat when doing this swap.
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This is good advice. That's what BBd.com is all about.
 
what are you planning with the car? street strip, warmed up near stock BB?


x2
 
Before you upgrade your engine, you may want to make sure that the rest of your car is up to the task.
First, if you haven't done so already, upgrade your brakes. If you currently have SBP wheels, Upgrade to LBP. (Stopping is a good thing :thumbup:) may also need new tires if you go from 14" wheels to 15"
Second, Update the suspension (and steering if needed).
Third, if you have a 7 1/4 rear...upgrade to a 8 3/4. (8 1/4 is ok up to ~400 hp)( you will also have to shorten the drive shaft)
Get the above stuff done first while you continue to drive your car and collect all the parts necessary for the swap.
1) V8 K-Member or conversion mounts
2) BB Transmission (may as well rebuild it while it's out of the car)
3) Larger radiator
If I missed anything, I'm sure somebody will chime in.
 
I actually don't have a 6 banger car but I find nice ones for a reasonable price. I have a 383 at the race shop almost done and I need a new car. I wanted a roller but haven't been having much luck. It a mild build probably around 450hp
 
Bush said:
I actually don't have a 6 banger car but I find nice ones for a reasonable price. I have a 383 at the race shop almost done and I need a new car. I wanted a roller but haven't been having much luck. It a mild build probably around 450hp
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If you can get a 6 cyl car at a good price grab it and pick up a 73 to 76 k frame
and make yourself a big block cradle.Very easy mod to do.
 
For a 450hp street driver - cruise nights and seasonal trips to the drags - you need the adaptor mounts, a transmission, and an 8 3/4 to get started. If you have some fab skills the 8.8 swap will be similar money to the price of an 8 3/4 core but they do not bolt in as aquired. You can get an 8 3/4 and driveshaft and bolt that in. So while it's less money overall it's not as easy. I've driven these cars for years and got my license before things like struts, sway bars, and 4 wheel disc brakes were common. IMO you do not need bigger brakes or torsion bars - not to just drive the car. If you want to road race or drive it aggresively often that's another matter. But most of us don't do that on a regular basis. If you are running normal tires (like plain radials a little bigger than stock) then frame connectors are not a must have - you'll be spinning the tires anyway not loading the chassis.
 
Just my 2 cents but if it wasn't an 8 3/4 going under it it would be a for 9". Can't beat them for strength and ease of gear changes and serviceability. Also used gears aren't hard to come by either.
 
Bush - I am currently working on one right now. When I first started on this, I simply wanted a sleeper, - however once I have finished it, I started taking it to the track, so direction changed a bit.

So on the sleeper part here is what I did: (440 (425hp), 727 28k convertor)

1. Front brakes - was a power drum car, changed to newer master and all non power. Needed a smaller rod, the master adapter and master cylinder.
B. Brakes, used a 73 and up disc system, low cost easy

2. Mounts and Header - Schumachers all the way on this. They have smaller ports, but boy they slide right in. Keep in mind I did this with Power steering, and still had no issues. A little grinding for oil pump and used their torque strap. only issue I had was the B&M floor shifter cable was too close to exhaust. Wrapped it and no issues.

3. At first I kept the 7 1/4, no issues at all. However I changed to a Dana 60 later and eventually to a 8 3/4 after I went the drag route. Still have the Dana if you are interested.

4. Cooling - This will be your issue, there is not a bunch of room for flex fans, shrouds, etc. I used a 7 blade, no adapter, and electric fan with a Summit Aluminum 4 row. BTW there is one on the discount rack for a 100.

Keep in mind I have changed a bit from this start, but issue I seen where body flex, when I put my sub frames I it was very noticeable. Cooling, as stated and I eventually went to a manual box - would recommend regardless of your direction, makes WAY more room, especially for starter.

And as for starter, use a MINI.

I like the /6 bars, will not be changing, same with the rear springs, however they may get an upgrade for Caltracs. Started with the 5/16 fuel line, worked ok for street, on track had issues at top end, started with mechanical pump, no issues. Again I have changed to more track focus now, but all the above made it down the track at a 103 and me grinning all the way - It has way more in it.

So my recommendation is pick your focus, I did it where I could drive and enjoy it, cost me a bit more, but it was cool and fun.

Charles
 
Bush said:
Never done it, wondering how much work it is. Would I be better off getting a car that had a v8?
Click to expand...

Well since a big block A body is very expensive and hard to find and the old DC big block K frames also fall into the catogorey, the swap mounts are the bang for the buck option for us normal hard working shallow pocketed Joe's.

I have done a /6 to a 400 low deck swap in less than a day with a freinds help.

Is it easy?

He'll ya!

You will need a few things though.

Wire strippers and shrink wrap to cut the wires in the engine compartment to shorten or lengthen as desired for a cleaner look. I also suggest convo lying tube to clean it up further.

A larger rad for cooling purposes. You MAY have slated with the /6 rad on a stock 318 if it was in excellent shape. But not now with the BB.

You'll have to shorten the drive shaft to the new rear.
I suggest a 8-3/4. The 8-1/4 can hold. Though spirited driving maybe a life shortener for the rear.

I also suggest a set of Lokar (or equal) throttle and transmission lockdown cables as well as a after market trans shifter. I used a basic inexpensive B&M shifter at about a $100.

Once all of that is done, upgrade your suspension as you see fit. Some like the /6 stuff in the car.

It was worth it to me.
 
Bobby, having used a few swap mount kits, Jim's method (pictured well in the link) offer a stronger soulition. The swap mounts are fine, the stock mounts are better but require some good elbow grease and welding which not all of are up to doing ourselves.
 
Mine is a /6 400 swap and the stock throttle cable has been working fine for 19 years now. You have to bend a stock bracket up,but the cable is the right length already.
 
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