Slant Six carburetor upgrade

[64Bones]

Early A Body Mopar 1962-1966 Two Barrel Conversion

1964 Plymouth Valiant 200 with a 225 slant six 1 barrel into a 2 barrel using the methods from a magazine article by Dave York

work done by the Slant Lords CC
located in the San Gabriel Valley, CA

 

[Charrlie_S]

That is similar to the one I did back in 1976. I used a "big" Holley pattern, and spray welded the plate to the manifold. I have tried the 500 Holley on both the Clifford and Offie manifolds with the correct 2bbl adapter, and my "homemade" manifold works better. I am still running the same manifold and carb on my drag car, today. However I did make a update by adding fogger nozzles.

 

[Slantsix64]

About time!!

 

[banzaibullitt]

PM'd

 

[Slantsix64]

Someone sticky this, already!!

 

[bcschief]

This is how we did it in the 80s. I seem to recall someone making a nicer throttle set up using a cable and some homemade brackets.

 

[Leanin'Dart270]

What I would like to see is some instructions on modifying the throttle rod linkage to rotate the opposite direction, and the adjustments required to hook up the kickdown. Very few carb choices if you want the throttle to open counter clockwise.

 

[RustyRatRod]

What I would like to see is some instructions on modifying the throttle rod linkage to rotate the opposite direction, and the adjustments required to hook up the kickdown. Very few carb choices if you want the throttle to open counter clockwise.

Just convert to cables for the throttle and kickdown.

 

[Leanin'Dart270]

Just convert to cables for the throttle and kickdown.

Yeah that's what everyone tells me. My car is pretty nice and rust free, nearly 100% factory original. When I find pedal assemblies to convert they look like they came up from the Titanic wreckage. It's not a fast car so I'll likely just use a weber. Previous owner overtightened the hell out of the top screws on the BBS and I'm sick of trying to patch it up, leaks too much to be safe. Still has the original matching carb tag and everything.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yeah that's what everyone tells me. My car is pretty nice and rust free, nearly 100% factory original. When I find pedal assemblies to convert they look like they came up from the Titanic wreckage. It's not a fast car so I'll likely just use a weber.

That's the joy of owning an old car. Sometimes you have to make old new again.

 

[Charrlie_S]

 

[slantsixdan]

When you do this kind of parallel 2bbl conversion (photo documentation of a very well done such conversion is here, and there's a nice pictorial on modifying a 1bbl intake here), don't just flatten the top fo the intake and plop down a mount plate. The carb mounting pad is not supposed to be parallel to the top surface of the intake manifold plenum; the engine, as installed in the car, does not sit level front to back—it's higher in front. So the carb mounting pad is a wedge, thicker at the rear, so the carb will sit properly level when the engine is installed. Make sure to maintain this forward tilt of the carburetor mount pad (the figure 3° comes to mind, but that might not be correct, so verify it).

 

[Charrlie_S]

It is not visible in my pictures, but that is correct. I "spray" welded the steel plate to the manifold, but when I milled the Stock 1 bbl riser off, I kept the same angle.
Just a FYI. Two things I would do different, today.
1) I would mount the carb 180 * around, so the float bowl is toward the fender. More room for the nitrous system, and easier to change jets.
2) I used a Ford adapter plate to raise the carb. With just the thin plate the linkage and accelerator pump hit the manifold. Can't hardly find those plates any longer.

 

[slantsixdan]

Didn't doubt you, Charlie; I was mentioning it for people out in televisionland.

 

[RustyRatRod]

It is not visible in my pictures, but that is correct. I "spray" welded the steel plate to the manifold, but when I milled the Stock 1 bbl riser off, I kept the same angle.
Just a FYI. Two things I would do different, today.
1) I would mount the carb 180 * around, so the float bowl is toward the fender. More room for the nitrous system, and easier to change jets.
2) I used a Ford adapter plate to raise the carb. With just the thin plate the linkage and accelerator pump hit the manifold. Can't hardly find those plates any longer.

Yeah, we caint have anything gettin in the way of nitrous. lol

 

[Charrlie_S]

Didn't doubt you, Charlie; I was mentioning it for people out in televisionland.

Wasn't criticizing you. Just posting a little more info on my build. For some reason I couldn't add text to my picture post. Just started to get to post pics, recently.
PS: I did that build in 1977, then added the nitrous in 2001.

 

[Darter6]

slantsixdan, I remember long ago a post of yours stating the use of early "B" gas pedal and cable can be used to replace the early "A" throttle rod. Minor floor mods to mount.It does work as I did it to my 64 Dart over 10 years ago.
Thank you for that.

 

[kesteb]

Nice work Charlie. It looks like you used an gasket from an Autolight 2100 instead of a Holley 2300. That spacer is diffidently a Ford piece and the vacuum nipple should be facing the block. I have a similar one that is water heated and was from a Ford 390 FE in a pickup.

 

[slantsixdan]

Yup, I had a '62-'65 B-body accelerator pedal assembly (bolted to floor) with matching lever arm assembly (bolted to firewall) in my '62 Lancer. Worked great. Still in the car, which now lives in Australia.

 

[MadScientistMat]

When I installed a Super Six long ago, I used an F/M/J body pedal assembly; they were easy to find in junkyards at the time, and the brake pedal cover slid right over my stock pedal cover.

Nowadays, I wonder if you'd have an easier time finding a mid '90s BMW pedal and adapting it. These also swung from the floor like an early A-body and have a cable linkage.