small block engine dowel pins

-
67dodgedartconv

67dodgedartconv

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
549
Reaction score
182
Location
pass christian, mississippi
On my 318 I have the 2 engine dowel pins that align into the corresponding transmission bell housing holes. One protrudes 3/8 inch from the back of the block while the other only does maybe 3/16 inch. Is this enough or do I need to keep trying to punch it through? I soaked it with wd40 and took a punch and hammer to it to drive more of it through but no luck. I am afraid I will break off that corner of the block. I don't have acetylene torch but can probably get a map gas cylinder for my propane torch set. Any thoughts? Thanks
20170724_175300.jpg
20170724_175326.jpg
.
 
You can try getting a large clamp and with a large socket on one side (trans side) and a short pin (something a little smaller than the alignment pin) on the other, you might be able to force it out some, if you understand what I'm saying?? If you could put the block in a vice it would be a piece of cake but unless you're "The Hulk" you should try a large clamp.

Treblig
 
How ever you do it, don't hit it so hard you break the block.
 
Treblig said:
You can try getting a large clamp and with a large socket on one side (trans side) and a short pin (something a little smaller than the alignment pin) on the other, you might be able to force it out some, if you understand what I'm saying?? If you could put the block in a vice it would be a piece of cake but unless you're "The Hulk" you should try a large clamp.

Treblig
Click to expand...
Good suggestion, tried it but frame of clamp barely hits block and keeps it from lining up straight. Socket I was using to push against pin was walking in circles. May try to heat block up around the pin and tap but after that I think I'm done. Worried about cracking the block.
 
If your determined to take it out, drill it out starting with a small drill bit and increasing size of bits as you go along. Make sure you can get a new one first.
 
67dodgedartconv said:
Good suggestion, tried it but frame of clamp barely hits block and keeps it from lining up straight. Socket I was using to push against pin was walking in circles. May try to heat block up around the pin and tap but after that I think I'm done. Worried about cracking the block.
Click to expand...


If you could clamp some large vice grips to the transmission side of the pin (really, really tight) you could have a buddy use a large screwdriver or pry bar to put a lot of pressure under the vice grips (leave a little room under the vice grips). Then when you tap on the back side of the pin (while somebody pries on the other side) there will be some incentive for it to move more easily and it will put less stress on the block...I think that should work!!
Just be sure to not pry against the weak side of the block!!
treblig
 
Last edited:
Don't heat the block too much if you do and do slowly and it over a wide area. I personally would not bother with heat. If the engine is not assembled, then I'd tip it on its back and line up the dowel in a hole in a block of wood on the floor and strike it there, with the wood evenly supporting that ear.
 
nm9stheham said:
Don't heat the block too much if you do and do slowly and it over a wide area. I personally would not bother with heat. If the engine is not assembled, then I'd tip it on its back and line up the dowel in a hole in a block of wood on the floor and strike it there, with the wood evenly supporting that ear.
Click to expand...
Engine is assembled. Am I worried over the length of the dowel pin for nothing?
 
nm9stheham said:
Don't heat the block too much if you do and do slowly and it over a wide area. I personally would not bother with heat. If the engine is not assembled, then I'd tip it on its back and line up the dowel in a hole in a block of wood on the floor and strike it there, with the wood evenly supporting that ear.
Click to expand...
I would not beat on it with a hammer. If you have compressed air and an air chisel, with a blunt bit, and a little dial valve to control the air, you can start slow and gradually increase the hammer blows. With penetrating oil and judicious controlled blows it will walk right out.
 
67dodgedartconv said:
Engine is assembled. Am I worried over the length of the dowel pin for nothing?
Click to expand...
Maybe... maybe not. If the taper of the pin is deep enough in the bellhousing to get past any bevel in the BH hole, so that the main body of the pin engages the main bore of the BH hole, then it has done most of its work in aligning things. It can add some help in resisting any movement of the BH against the block, but the bolts do a lot of that anyway. I personally would want it out a bit more..... but that just may be me !

I see your engine is on a wooden cradle. Why not screw another board or 2 onto the cradle so that they support the back of the block while you work at this thing from the front? Use a lot of deck screws; a piece of oak (hard) would be ideal....there ought to be lots of that down at the local BBQ place LOL

BTW, PB Blaster is a MUCH better penetrant than WD40.
 
I've got it!!! Simply attach the transmission to the block (on the floor) snug the bolts down but not too tight allowing for just a little movement so the pin can self align....THEN tap the pin into the transmission. With the trans housing as a back up you won't have to worry about breaking anything!! VIOLA!!

Treblig
 
leave it,,the pin is only for alignment,,once the trans is mated the pin can be 3/16 or 3 inches wont make a difference. If you drill it you could change the alignment anyway.
 
rustycowll69 said:
understood. if it were a blind hole, you could drill a small hole, tap the end for grease fitting, and pump the grease in and it would force it out. I have a tool like that that works like that for pilot bushings.
Click to expand...
For anyone who was wondering, I drilled out the center until about 1/16 inch of pin left all around and then was able to tap the whole pin out .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top