Smallish roller cam for DD 318LA

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rustytoolss

rustytoolss

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Outside of OEM replacement roller cam for a 318LA. Is there much else made for a stockish 318LA daily driver in a roller that won't break the bank. Something with more lift/duration. But nothing stupid big for a daily cruiser.
I mean how much lift/ duration would a stockish 318 handle, without being stupid big?...and I would need a roller that still uses a mechanical fuel pump also.
 
Your question, illustrates that you dont really know much about 318's, or cylinder heads in general.

You want to increase the power of your existing 318...

You want some lope, and some more mid range, and a little more top end power.

You didnt state any specifics about the EXACT 318 you have....what other modifications, you already have, and you stated you dont want to break the bank.

If you did some SEARCH'ing with the SEARCH button.....or did some READING....of the STICKY's that are along the top of each forum....You would know, that we (all us Experienced A-Body Owners) are more than willing to help others out with advice, and our experience.....but you really need to give us more information RIGHT OFF THE BAT, and maybe mention that you realize modifications cost money, and ask...."what would I be looking at to accomplish this upgrade properly?"

stock 318 1.78/1.50 valve heads with econo NON-performance ports/springs would hardly benefit from a cam and lifter swap....without modifications to the heads themselves...IE, changing valve springs, seals, gasket matching..ect.

Spend the DOLLARS where it matters if your on a budget....


It goes like this...
Exhaust pipe diameter increase from 2" to dual 2.5"
Ignition
Headers
Intake and carburetor
TIRES
CYLINDER HEADS
Camshaft and Lifters
then Progressively more...

You cant take a stock 318.....throw a 292* .509" 108 in it with stock valve springs, a set of CL headers, an Edelbrock Carb and Performer intake and bruise the streets.....well I guess you could....till the pistons hit the valves.

Look at http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/index.php

There is ALOT made for Roller Cam engines,..Pre Magnum, and Magnum.

For all your Roller Cam 318/360 needs....
 
I rebuild a 305 for my suburban using a stock 350 vortec cam .414int.427 ext instead of the .353/373 factory roller and it now runs like a 350 but has good street manners EXECPT when in overdrive / aircond on. and light throttle ,but if I run 75mph its fine .it was perfect for a non/od trans .so if you look for something close to the 360 2-barrel cam in the 424lift area with the short duration it will work great
 
Prine said:
Your question, illustrates that you dont really know much about 318's, or cylinder heads in general.

You want to increase the power of your existing 318...

You want some lope, and some more mid range, and a little more top end power.

You didnt state any specifics about the EXACT 318 you have....what other modifications, you already have, and you stated you dont want to break the bank.

If you did some SEARCH'ing with the SEARCH button.....or did some READING....of the STICKY's that are along the top of each forum....You would know, that we (all us Experienced A-Body Owners) are more than willing to help others out with advice, and our experience.....but you really need to give us more information RIGHT OFF THE BAT, and maybe mention that you realize modifications cost money, and ask...."what would I be looking at to accomplish this upgrade properly?"

stock 318 1.78/1.50 valve heads with econo NON-performance ports/springs would hardly benefit from a cam and lifter swap....without modifications to the heads themselves...IE, changing valve springs, seals, gasket matching..ect.

Spend the DOLLARS where it matters if your on a budget....


It goes like this...
Exhaust pipe diameter increase from 2" to dual 2.5"
Ignition
Headers
Intake and carburetor
TIRES
CYLINDER HEADS
Camshaft and Lifters
then Progressively more...

You cant take a stock 318.....throw a 292* .509" 108 in it with stock valve springs, a set of CL headers, an Edelbrock Carb and Performer intake and bruise the streets.....well I guess you could....till the pistons hit the valves.

Look at http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/index.php

There is ALOT made for Roller Cam engines,..Pre Magnum, and Magnum.

For all your Roller Cam 318/360 needs....
Click to expand...

I should have given more information.
1985 318 roller block, with 302 heads, stock compression, stock bore stroke(engine will get a stock rebuild)
Electronic ignition with adjustable vac advance.
Edelbrock performer intake & Edelbrock performer carb 600 cfm
727 automatic stock low stall converter.
3.23 rearend ratio
Dual exhaust 2.25 W/ dynomax type mufflers
As for what I want...I would like to install a roller (since I've got a roller block). But the OEM replacement cams are not much to talk about. So I was wanted a roller that was something in the lines of the 340 type cam(but in a roller) if possible.
It's a driver, just looking for some modest low/mid range power improvement.
Why roller?? I don't want to fight motor oil issues, anymore.
Plain and simple stockish 318, looking for a somewhat larger roller cam than OEM replacement. Not looking to be the fastest, just an upgrade, that's all.
 
teringer said:
I rebuild a 305 for my suburban using a stock 350 vortec cam .414int.427 ext instead of the .353/373 factory roller and it now runs like a 350 but has good street manners EXECPT when in overdrive / aircond on. and light throttle ,but if I run 75mph its fine .it was perfect for a non/od trans .so if you look for something close to the 360 2-barrel cam in the 424lift area with the short duration it will work great
Click to expand...
Thanks, you get what I'm trying to do. (just with a roller if possible)Also I do not have an overdrive transmission.
 
You could have your cam reground. You might have to get custom pushrods and better valve springs but there are more than a few good guys that can do that for you. Racer Brown in Baltimore , Oregon Cams and more if you search.
 
Lelo Dart said:
You will need a long snout or retro fit roller cam from from comp or one of the other companys.
Click to expand...

The hell you say.

You can have your original cam reground by Oregon Cam Grinders for 125 bucks. They will mix and match ANY of their lobes and LSA's on their hydraulic roller cam chart at NO extra charge. You will have to get custom length pushrods, but on the end, Oregon will still save you some coin.
 
Rockauto lists this

SEALED POWER Part # CS1557
Hydraulic Roller; (050) Duration at .050 Lobe Lift; 195 Exh.; 197 Int

For an 89 B250 5.9

Intake Lift 0.2703
Exhaust Lift .2645
Intake Duration 197
Exhaust Duration 195


Closeout- $105

Seems a little tame.

I think my 318 roller LA cam spec is wrong.
I have 391/391 240/240
 
Hmm that might be valve lift.

If that's so, then it becomes a .405 int and .396 exh lift

seems like the exhaust cycle is much less, which is sort of counter intuitive to me.
 
The short answer to your question is look at the cam companies web sites.
Start with Crane, Lunati & Comp Cams. Call them and tell them what you have and what you have seen in there catalog.they will set you up.

There are small roller cams for basic improvements/upgrading your engine.
I was eye balling a 214/222 roller cam last night as a matter of fact for my 360 Magnum.
You just need to remember that ANY cam you look at can be made at the factory to fit your engine, Magnum or not.
 
You said your block is an "85"? I thought the roller blocks came about a few years later. I could be wrong though.
 
63dartman said:
You said your block is an "85"? I thought the roller blocks came about a few years later. I could be wrong though.
Click to expand...
I scrapped an October-December 1984 318 with 302s and the drilled holes for the spiders- but being a truck motor it had a flat tappet in it. '85 is when that all started, and the late '84 builds could have it if they didn't all. Truck and cop car 318s had flat tappet cams in roller blocks until the trucks got TBI- weird since they quit making 4bbl truck motors when the roller motors came out.

rustytoolss said:
I should have given more information.
1985 318 roller block, with 302 heads, stock compression, stock bore stroke(engine will get a stock rebuild)
Electronic ignition with adjustable vac advance.
Edelbrock performer intake & Edelbrock performer carb 600 cfm
727 automatic stock low stall converter.
3.23 rearend ratio
Dual exhaust 2.25 W/ dynomax type mufflers
As for what I want...I would like to install a roller (since I've got a roller block). But the OEM replacement cams are not much to talk about. So I was wanted a roller that was something in the lines of the 340 type cam(but in a roller) if possible.
It's a driver, just looking for some modest low/mid range power improvement.
Why roller?? I don't want to fight motor oil issues, anymore.
Plain and simple stockish 318, looking for a somewhat larger roller cam than OEM replacement. Not looking to be the fastest, just an upgrade, that's all.
Click to expand...
The big place you'll want to gain is in the mid-range. Worth keeping in mind that "upper-end" in these motors starts in the low 4000s- if it's all stock that's where it's laying over.

If you're rebuilding the 318 upgrading from the 302s to something better would be a sound idea. The valve springs stock are basically all tailor fit to the what the OE engine was built for- few times will you change cams and not need to change the springs in any of the motors. A pretty much E48 style build with roller cam and some additional improvements would make a very good DD motor.
 
Infecteddog said:
I scrapped an October-December 1984 318 with 302s and the drilled holes for the spiders- but being a truck motor it had a flat tappet in it. '85 is when that all started, and the late '84 builds could have it if they didn't all. Truck and cop car 318s had flat tappet cams in roller blocks until the trucks got TBI- weird since they quit making 4bbl truck motors when the roller motors came out.


The big place you'll want to gain is in the mid-range. Worth keeping in mind that "upper-end" in these motors starts in the low 4000s- if it's all stock that's where it's laying over.

If you're rebuilding the 318 upgrading from the 302s to something better would be a sound idea. The valve springs stock are basically all tailor fit to the what the OE engine was built for- few times will you change cams and not need to change the springs in any of the motors. A pretty much E48 style build with roller cam and some additional improvements would make a very good DD motor.
Click to expand...
 
RustyRatRod said:
The hell you say.

You can have your original cam reground by Oregon Cam Grinders for 125 bucks. They will mix and match ANY of their lobes and LSA's on their hydraulic roller cam chart at NO extra charge. You will have to get custom length pushrods, but on the end, Oregon will still save you some coin.
Click to expand...
Why would I need custom pushrods ? Just asking ,I would think that I would be able to use the 85-89 LA roller pushrods, from a Diplomat 6.764" length ?? Not sure about that. Also not sure if I would need solid pushrods, or the hallow pushrods ?
 
rustytoolss said:
Why would I need custom pushrods ? Just asking ,I would think that I would be able to use the 85-89 LA roller pushrods, from a Diplomat 6.764" length ?? Not sure about that. Also not sure if I would need solid pushrods, or the hallow pushrods ?
Click to expand...

When a cam is reground material is taken off of the base circle (everything except the tip of the lobe) which then sets the lifter deeper in the bore so in most cases longer pushrods are required. LA motors can use either solid or hollow pushrods, the rockers are oiled through the shafts.
 
Infecteddog said:
The big place you'll want to gain is in the mid-range. Worth keeping in mind that "upper-end" in these motors starts in the low 4000s- if it's all stock that's where it's laying over.

If you're rebuilding the 318 upgrading from the 302s to something better would be a sound idea. The valve springs stock are basically all tailor fit to the what the OE engine was built for- few times will you change cams and not need to change the springs in any of the motors. A pretty much E48 style build with roller cam and some additional improvements would make a very good DD motor.
Click to expand...

Thanks, been there done that 3 times all ready. I know these teens well. The cam I suggest is just that from being there and done that with the same set up.
New valve springs are always part of the program.
 
daliant said:
When a cam is reground material is taken off of the base circle (everything except the tip of the lobe) which then sets the lifter deeper in the bore so in most cases longer pushrods are required. LA motors can use either solid or hollow pushrods, the rockers are oiled through the shafts.
Click to expand...

Thanks, now I understand needing custom pushrods, on a reground cam. And if I were to buy a new aftermarket/ or OEM replacement cam, the 6.764" pushrods would be fine.
 
toolmanmike said:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-20-618-9 Comp Cam recommended for a 318. That's a good thing. The bad thing is the $320 price tag, add the lifters if you choose and valve springs and the budget is gone.
Click to expand...

You can actually save some money not buying the lifters...factory style roller cams are very forgiving. The only reason you'd need to replace the lifters would be if they make noise...the hardened rollers don't have a wear pattern like flat tappet cams so you can reuse them without concern of wiping a lobe. I've done it at least a dozen times in Ford engines with absolutely zero ill effects on daily driven and dedicated street/strip use.


Just food for thought...
 
I've heard that before about reusing roller lifters. But was not sure that it could be done on a "new/reground" cam. Sure would save some $$
 
TE=RustyRatRod;1970893191]The hell you say.

You can have your original cam reground by Oregon Cam Grinders for 125 bucks. They will mix and match ANY of their lobes and LSA's on their hydraulic roller cam chart at NO extra charge. You will have to get custom length pushrods, but on the end, Oregon will still save you some coin.[/QUOTE]
Cut through the b.s., listen to R.R.R.. they do nice work,for a great price. Some of the aftermarket cam companies send you a full billet blank, needing a bronze distributor gear. Stick with Oregon, & a cast iron cam core.
 
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