Smoking after valve adjustment

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65Vart

65Vart

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I just finished adjusting the valves on my 340 solid roller rocker motor (.018 intake, .020 exhaust).
Runs great new plugs etc. Smoking out of the left exhaust. No smoke before the adjustment. any ideas ?
 
65Vart said:
I just finished adjusting the valves on my 340 solid roller rocker motor (.018 intake, .020 exhaust).
Runs great new plugs etc. Smoking out of the left exhaust. No smoke before the adjustment. any ideas ?
Click to expand...

My idea is that it was smoking before the adjustment as well.
 

Let's see, you pulled the valve covers and broke their seal.

Then just bolted them back on without any new sealer after adjusting the valves.

Now they seep oil onto a hot manifold and it smokes.

Once that oil starts running down, it's hard to tell where it's coming from.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
Color of the smoke is important. Maybe leave it run for a while without beating on it and see if it clears up.
 
Having an engine machine shop . You more than likely have a tight valve adjustment. There is a procedure to follow and its not the quarter turn Bullshit done with this decal info
1753270077957.png
Never use this procedure especially with a roller cam. Does not give maximum performance . Not even close to correct and easy to FUUG up

I posted the procedure we use on all engines on this site in past threads and is readily available on line . I am sure the moderators who watch everyone of my post will see this and could point you in the right direction ? I would post it but they would probably take it down. Look on other sites or contact my son at SK Machine | Danielsville PA. Steve only reads here for amusement and will not post on this site.
 
I think he's saying he has a solid cam with roller rockers. But I could be wrong.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Look on other sites
Click to expand...
How would I look it up without knowing how to describe it? :lol:

I've found the adjust 2 valves at a time method like on the MP sticker, a 4 valve at a time method also from MP, the EOIC method, and a turn and tighten method from youtube


Is your method one of those?
 
PM'd , You can spread the info it if you want. No more info posts on this site from me. I'll be on here until my gold runs out, Then to buy parts only. I will not sell parts or give hardware to any members . I was warned.
Uncle Bob said:
How would I look it up without knowing how to describe it? :lol:

I've found the adjust 2 valves at a time method like on the MP sticker, a 4 valve at a time method also from MP, the EOIC method, and a turn and tighten method from youtube


Is your method one of those?
Click to expand...
 
Oldmanmopar said:
PM'd , You can spread the info it if you want. No more info posts on this site from me. I'll be on here until my gold runs out, Then to buy parts only. I will not sell parts or give hardware to any members . I was warned.
Click to expand...
The way you described would be EOIC to me - Exhaust Opening Intake Closing.

I don't understand all the site drama, but OTOH I'm glad I don't understand it.

:thumbsup:
 
The fact that the OP says it 'runs great' suggests he knows how to adjust valve lash.....
 
Uncle Bob said:
The way you described would be EOIC to me - Exhaust Opening Intake Closing.

I don't understand all the site drama, but OTOH I'm glad I don't understand it.

:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Actually is called the Valve Overlap method and is the most accurate. Depending on camshaft you can actually gain a small amount of lift over other adjustment procedures.
Buick Indy motor builder Fischer Engineering , insisted we run the valves w/ this method. I've known longtime Sprint Car mechanics that didn't know about this method.
When I restored Flathead marine engines(Chris-Craft, etc) I used Valve Overlap after setting w/ factory method & got lift gains. Almost 20 yrs on & won't quote #s from memory, just to recieve unbelieving responses.
Try regular methods & then rerun adjustment using VO method to see for yourself.
Read up on method, I always have to think it thru, EOIC means: Exhaust Opening, check intake valve: Intake Closing, check exhaust valve.
That means; when exhaust valve Just starts to open, check Intake, AND when intake has Just Totally Closed(stopped on seat) check Exhaust valve.
It must be done on every cylinder, no opposite firing order **** to get confused about!
 
Last edited:
I found a valve seal that was riding the valve up and down. Well until it got squashed. You could have had one doing the same thing, the retainer could have reset it. I just replaced them all, no issues since. Mine barely smoke at all. They are a positive seal style.
 
Bewy said:
Ok, just to please ya.....
I recommend HEI....
Click to expand...
HEI makes sense. Since you can get parts at any AP store, And are small enough to carry spares if you care to. Also with stock distributor and cap if you want.
I'm still running points. Confusing for novices but dealt with many & is ez except laying on fender getting harder & harder.
 
I always smoke after adjusting a set of valves. What's the big deal?
 
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