So I decided to build a 360 for my Valiant :)

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My thoughts on 360 are...I dislike the external balance but that's easily overcome by obtaining the correct needed parts etc.

I would for example have a 360 with trans bolted on ready to drop in in place of an internally balanced 273/318/ early 340 etc.

I would take a 360 get rid of the dished pistons and maybe a cam and that's it with maybe the J heads I think it would run

well...and the recipe is simple no head scratching and obtaining parts like a 318. No back to the drawing board BS.
 
I have a combo nearly exactly as you are contemplating including a 230/237/110 cam.

Mine is currently at 11.1 Scr and under alloy heads. It runs on 87E10 just fine, even at 185psi.
What I'd like to tell you is that the previous cam was 223/230/110, running at 11.3Scr and close to 200psi; which, had waaaaaay more bottom-end torque, but still went 106 in the quarter, on it's only one run ever, at 3650 pounds and 750ft elevation.. with 3.55s and 245/60-14 street tires.

After that cam lost lobes, I went to the next bigger.
I had to add 16% more low-gear to get the torque back. If yur gunna run 4.10s, I suggest an overdrive, lol.
If yur NOT gunna run the pressure up, I see very little advantage to running alloys on the street.
I ran that 200psi still on 87E10, still at 34*@3400rpm, still with 3.55s, still at 3650 pounds, and for 4 years.
But I won't tell you that I once got 32 mpgs with that smaller cam, allbeit geared 65=1850, cuz then, all the naysayers come down on me.

If you are at elevation,
there are a couple of FABO guys in Colorado, at elevation, that were rather shocked at the powerloss at 5000ft. Maybe they'll chime in.
If you don't want to be like them, you'll need a special build to compensate for that.
I highly recommend you chose your cam first, then design your build AND COMBO, around the cam.
And I highly recommend a smaller than 231/110 cam.
And if it was me, I'd go to a 107ish LSA, to get some overlap on the smaller cam. But, you just gotta keep the pressure up;
end
 
The route that I took was I opened the ring Gap a little for the top steel ring a small plate system for nitrous and push the button for stroker on demand 500 foot pounds of torque not a problem.:steering:from 345 cubic inches.
 
Why? Be specific.
For me it doesn't interchange with my set up I have a 340 so to have a 360 as a spare Id need the trans and flex plate/flywheel etc. Isn't really anything about the 360 engine itself, more about interchangeability.
 
For me it doesn't interchange with my set up I have a 340 so to have a 360 as a spare Id need the trans and flex plate/flywheel etc. Isn't really anything about the 360 engine itself, more about interchangeability.
Ah ok. Well there’s only a couple years of 340 that are internal. The rest were external balance like the 360.
 
For me it doesn't interchange with my set up I have a 340 so to have a 360 as a spare Id need the trans and flex plate/flywheel etc. Isn't really anything about the 360 engine itself, more about interchangeability.

I am curious, why would you need a different trans to go from a 340 to a 360?
 
If it was me and I had all the parts for a stock stroke 360, I would build what I have. If I had money to spend on top of that, I would get some TF heads before I would spend money on a stroker kit.

Personally, I like a stock stroke 360, even though I can't argue that a 408 has more torque. I guess I am more of an RPM guy and while a 3.58 stroke 360 isn't going to rev like a 340, it will rev better than a 4" stroke motor. Provided the stoke stroke motor doesn't have pistons and rods that way outweigh the stroker. And John (recent legendary member) showed that you don't need a stroker to run 9's.

BTW, I don't see a G3 as a prostreet build. I understand the idea of not adding electronics, but if you run a MSD box for your ignition on an LA or BB, there isn't any more electronics needed to run an early G3. At the same time, I like EFI, VVT and SRV so I am running all of it through a factory PCM, and wouldn't want a carb on a G3 myself. To each their own.
 

Checking and grinding the crank would be a few hundred, ballancing about the same. That job would be about 500-600 total in my shop.

I would for example have a 360 with trans bolted on ready to drop in in place of an internally balanced 273/318/ early 340 etc.

I would take a 360 get rid of the dished pistons and maybe a cam and that's it with maybe the J heads I think it would run

well...and the recipe is simple
And... the same recipe, pistons, cam , and j heads would also make a decent 318 and it is still a simple recipe.
Just don't tell it that its a 318, and it will run great.
 
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