So Scarebird it is!

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1968dartman

1968dartman

life is getting better!!
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So I went ahead and bought the adapters from Scarebird to convert my 68 Dart to disc brakes. So far I have everything I need except for a new master cylinder. So now I need to get the rotors drilled for small bolt pattern and get at it. Let me know of any difficulties anyone had installing this system. I am running Cragar SS wheels .
 
Please keep this updated with the process. I plan on doing this to my 69 this summer and was curious if it is as smooth as advertised
 
proportion valve is a braking improvement but not an absolute requirement.
You're still stopping the same 4 wheels under same size/weight vehicle.
A 68 drum/drum master cylinder may not hold enough fluid for the front disc brake calipers future needs but it too will make brakes just as it did before ( until front lining wear emptys its reservoir ).
 
I was told that I need a proportioning valve so I bought one with lines from a member here. I also bough a master cylinder adapter so I could run the newer style two bolt master cylinder.
 
1968dartman said:
I was told that I need a proportioning valve so I bought one with lines from a member here. I also bough a master cylinder adapter so I could run the newer style two bolt master cylinder.
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Well if you already bought it you may as well install it. If its rusted and screwed up inside,, new are available. It's location makes it a chore to R&R. Good luck !
 
I didn't install a porp valve but it needs it. When I hit the brakes in a panic stop situation the rears lock up. I'm going to do some brake line plumbing next year, plan on adding the porp valve and a line lock.

As far as the "needing" a disk brake MC. The reason disk brake MCs have a larger reservoir has to do with as brake pad wear down there is more room behind the piston that needs to be filled with brake fuild. So you can change the MC to get more fluid capacity or just check your brake fluid more often. Your choice. I will say I'm thinking about changing my MC to a light weight one with a differnt bore size as I've herd people say something in the area of a 1" bore will help with braking ability. But overall I'm happy with my cars stopping ability. Would I go road racing with it no but I also didn't build it for that.
 
1968dartman said:
I was told that I need a proportioning valve so I bought one with lines from a member here. I also bough a master cylinder adapter so I could run the newer style two bolt master cylinder.
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So when I say I need a prop valve il talking getting a new adjustable one for the rear only. Sounds like your talking about a old factory one...not sure if that will get you where you want to be. But you already bought it so give it a shot I guess.
 
The only issue I had doing it to Jake's 65 was a small raised nub on the caliper hit the scarebird bracket - had to grind that nub off, being careful not to get it too hot and melt the seals in the caliper. Hindsight says to grind a clearance notch in the bracket instead.
 
The instructions tell you to grind the nub on the caliper off. No big deal but like ragtop said don't get them to hot.
 
Some good info here and I aint even had my 1st cup of coffee yet. Let us know(pics) how it works out John
 
tekslk said:
Arent they pre-drilled for small bolt pattern?
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You can order rotors from Scarebird but they are expensive in my opinion. While it was a little bit of trial and error to realized the back of the rotor hat was hitting the studs I drilled my own rotors out. Also if you go with the Scarebird rotors they are plan smoothies, I bought stoptech drilled and slotted rotors from Rockauto (who knew stoptech made drilled and slotted rotors for a Toyota minivan). I actually bought everything from Rockauto, cheep and easy.
 
You can buy them from scarebird pre-drilled, or save a bundle and buy them locally. You get a paper template and they are not as hard to drill as you might think.
 
ragtopfury said:
You can buy them from scarebird pre-drilled, or save a bundle and buy them locally. You get a paper template and they are not as hard to drill as you might think.
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So the paper template is a joke its pain to get it to be lined up and centered. I used the old drums as my templet. I put the face of the old drum on the face of the rotor hat and used a center punch to give my drill bit a place to start.
 
snoreen40 said:
How much was the kit? Is there a web site? I will be converting mine soon.
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Google my brother lol. Heres a link to the site.

https://scarebird.com

Its 105 plus shipping for the brackets and I spend around 2 or 300 from rockauto for all the parts I needed. With that said I went with stoptech drilled and slotted rotors and carbon fiber ceramic pads so you could do it for less.
 
I did the Scarebird 10"drum to disc(cavalier disc and rotor/Cadillac hose?) in 2007.
It turned an ill stopping, pulling, weaving, scarey front brake system into a dependable
straight line stopping car. I kept the master cylinder with no change, just had to press a little harder. I had a machine shop to the drilling and the other cut(forgot)
I also had Cragar SS and had to trim a tad off the caliper with a grinder.
Still stops well today with no other maintenance.
Didn't know about Rockauto and I used NAPA.
 
My Scarebird brackets arrived yesterday. I plan on doing the conversion on my 70 Swinger. I still have to gather the other parts. Will more than likely take a few months as the Cuda is on deck at the moment. I will be watching this thread to see how the process goes.
 
My uncle installed this kit on his 1971 dart swinger, he wanted to use the small bolt pattern because of his rally wheels and did not want to upgrade to big bolt pattern so this kit was a great match....... Works great and he's been driving it for many years now :glasses7:
 
I am going to test fit everything before final paint and assembly. I will try to remember to take lots of pictures, but I my memory is NOT what it once was, so we will see!
 
Miss I only use factory parts is looking at this conversion that uses GM and Toyota parts! WHAT has this world come to!!!! LOL
 
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