So Scarebird it is!

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1968dartman said:
Miss I only use factory parts is looking at this conversion that uses GM and Toyota parts! WHAT has this world come to!!!! LOL
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Well at first I thought the same thing but these toyots and gm parts are going to be available for a long time coming. ..... say you take a long road trip on the old route 66 and you start having problems and a caliper is leaking.

Roll into a decent sized town find an advance auto parts or whatever and they probably have your GM caliper in stock and your back on the road.

Just a thought
 
The kit for my coronet actually uses ford rotors and late model dodge truck calipers which is not bad. ...... only thing I don't like is that it will restrict me to 15 inch wheels only. I don't like that because i wanted to use the original deluxe wheel covers......14 inchers ....doh'
 
actually I was just reading closer and they do have a B-body set up that fits 14 inch wheels but its a medium duty set up but I don't like the fact the rotor center hole has to be enlarged on a lathe......the heavy duty set up is looking better and just use dog dishes on 15 inch cop wheels or something.


I like this scarebird idea .....opens a lot of new doors with more options
 
Yes it looks good, but I will find out for sure once I put the whole puzzle together. I just WON'T tell everyone that I have GM parts on my MOPAR!! LOL
 
1968dartman said:
Yes it looks good, but I will find out for sure once I put the whole puzzle together. I just WON'T tell everyone that I have GM parts on my MOPAR!! LOL
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they will suspect when they have their O.E. mopar calipers on back order for two weeks and you get yours by walking into a parts store and walking out ten minutes later with parts in hand :D
 
It didn't take long to find the first problem. I tried mounting the calipers on the brackets and they do NOT fit properly. I will need to take a little bit off the edge of the caliper to take it fit the bracket. Not a big deal, but it is a pain in the butt!
 
Correct! Had to do the same thing with my set up. Not sure about your calipers but mine were bought at the same time from the same company and they look completely different. One required more grinding than the other.

LEARN from my head ache and counter sink the back of the rotor holes you make. Took me forever to figure out that my rotors were the reason my rotors weren't sitting flat had to do with the studs hitting the inside of the rotor hat. The hub of the rotor is what will center it so if your holes are bigger its not that big of a deal.
 
1968dartman said:
Miss I only use factory parts is looking at this conversion that uses GM and Toyota parts! WHAT has this world come to!!!! LOL
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You get over that real quick when you look at the price tag lol. Also, if you go with the idea that we can never use anything designed for anything other than a Mopar you would never have a stroker motor. All the kits I've seen for my 440 use BBC rods.
 
charger426 said:
Correct! Had to do the same thing with my set up. Not sure about your calipers but mine were bought at the same time from the same company and they look completely different. One required more grinding than the other.

LEARN from my head ache and counter sink the back of the rotor holes you make. Took me forever to figure out that my rotors were the reason my rotors weren't sitting flat had to do with the studs hitting the inside of the rotor hat. The hub of the rotor is what will center it so if your holes are bigger its not that big of a deal.
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I also had one caliper not fit correctly and ground off the bump, the other side fit perfect, I now have 2 matching (bendix) calipers for the other conversion in the wife's 66 dart.



Also to for making the changeover easier I replaced my studs with the screw in type so that I didn't have to countersink the rotor in case I ever changed to a different type of rotor or ruined the ones that I originally bought to use with the scarebird setup.


Now I have the option of using either the 5 on 4" and drilling a rotor or the 5 on 4.5 by just unscrewing the studs from one set of tapped holes to the other set. I had the 5 on 4" SBP torque thrust mags on at first then went to BBP rally's because I just like the style better(after I find matching center caps that is).
 
66Dvert said:
I also had one caliper not fit correctly and ground off the bump, the other side fit perfect, I now have 2 matching (bendix) calipers for the other conversion in the wife's 66 dart.



Also to for making the changeover easier I replaced my studs with the screw in type so that I didn't have to countersink the rotor in case I ever changed to a different type of rotor or ruined the ones that I originally bought to use with the scarebird setup.


Now I have the option of using either the 5 on 4" and drilling a rotor or the 5 on 4.5 by just unscrewing the studs from one set of tapped holes to the other set. I had the 5 on 4" SBP torque thrust mags on at first then went to BBP rally's because I just like the style better(after I find matching center caps that is).
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After having the OEM knurled studs strip their hole and turn with the lug nuts, I wouldn't try or recommend a stud that is threaded in. Good luck with them.
 
Started my conversion this weekend. Everything came off fairly easy minus the dust cover bolts, but a soak with Pb Blaster and they finally came loose.
I tried to drill out the studs from the backside of the hub, but I don't have a drill press and by hand was going to take forever and tiresome.
I'm going to take the hubs to a shop to see if they can drill them out.
I have new longer studs that are the OEM knurled type.
 
Hankrebel said:
Started my conversion this weekend. Everything came off fairly easy minus the dust cover bolts, but a soak with Pb Blaster and they finally came loose.
I tried to drill out the studs from the backside of the hub, but I don't have a drill press and by hand was going to take forever and tiresome.
I'm going to take the hubs to a shop to see if they can drill them out.
I have new longer studs that are the OEM knurled type.
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I'm in the middle of a Scarebird conversion on my 69 Barracuda. I have one side just about done. Some one here suggested a 5/8" hole saw to deal with the swaged studs. I bought one and I have to say it worked great. Slickest thing I ever saw to deal with the swaging. The 10" drums on he car had been cut way over 10.125" so they were scrap any way. I used the hole saw to cut completely through the drum. I put one of the old lug nuts on the studs and a few whacks with a hammer and the studs came right out of the hubs. I used Dorman 610-156 studs as suggested by Scarebird and they pressed right in.

All in all that 5/8" hole saw made the whole stud removal/replacement painless as could be.
 
RedFish said:
After having the OEM knurled studs strip their hole and turn with the lug nuts, I wouldn't try or recommend a stud that is threaded in. Good luck with them.
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WOW,have you happened to notice how they set up dirt track cars? How bout the midgets? when My stepfather ran midgets in PA. in the 70's,80's and 90's that's all most of the tracks allowed. Some of the blacktop oval track guys do it that way too. also drag racers go for that also to get the extra length. if your thinking the old VW type or cheapy trailer types where it screws in from the front and into the hub I might(will) agree with you. BUT the screw in type of studs I'm talking about go in from the BACK screwing into the hub and extending through it to mount the wheels using standard lug nuts and they are hardened. I have had them on a lot of corner carvers and road rally cross country cars and never had one fail. I've broken a few rims getting crazy on some cross country rally's but never a screw in stud.
 
So I finally got of my butt and started on this conversion. Master cylinder is removed and I have the brakes removed from the front. I have one side down to the bare spindle and test fitted one adapter, and it fit with no problem. I removed the wheel studs to install longer ones and also installed the locating rings on the hubs. So far so good, but I still have a LONG ways to go to have front brakes again. Will have to get the rotors out to the machine shop to be drilled, and at the same time I will get them to press the new wheel studs in. Looking forward to disc brakes in the spring.
 
That is true, but I am going to the machine shop anyway so I will let them do it. I am VERY good at breaking things so I see this as a way to insure that I don't break things that I need.
 
Did my Duster a couple of years ago, kept the small bolt pattern. Drilled the rotors myself and bought everything but the brackets on Rockauto during a close out. I had less than $400 all done............including a new master cylinder.
 
I forgot to post last week but I finished my conversion. The only hard part was drilling out the mounting bracket where the hard/soft lines meet. The end of the softline supplied with the kit was to big to fit. The little time with the dremel and it went right in. My 71 Swinger already had a dual reservoir so I'm running it for a while to see how it works.
I followed my front lines down and there seems to already be a distribution block plummed so I may be good there as well.
Took it for a test drive and it was night and day difference!

Now to start working on the rear drums.
Any advice on sourcing the parts out. I'm probably going to get new drums given I don't know the condition of the current drums.
 
rock auto or auto zone or orielly's but i think rock auto has the cheaper prices on everything for the drum back brakes
 
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