Solid roller cams HV oil pumps?

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DC Dart

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Been wondering which oil pump to run std. or HV. I have a 451 with full groove mains and .00225 clearance on the rod and main bearings. I have the oil galley's reamed with 1/2 oil pickup. Going the hemi oil pan route that fits a body. Would normally run the HV oil pump but was concerned about premature wear on the distributor gear? This would be if I went bronze. I am also wondering about the other distributor gear alternatives.
The cam is comp cams XR 280.
440 source rotating assembly
Edelbrock rpm heads
comp cams roller rockers
The car is manual trans and will be mostly street. Any input or experiences would be appreciated.
 
I think a Driven Pin thru the Gear helps with an HV Pump...
If your not turning over 6xxx Rpm it probably isn't a must, but with a motor that nice and that expensive... I would do it!
 
Hughes sells a pump drive assembly that has a melonized steel gear. That's what I use on my roller cam engines. If you are running a high volume pump don't get too crazy with the viscosity. I usually run Chevron 5-30 or 10-40 depending on the weather.
 
I have run the bronze gear on my billet cam without issue. the gear is easy enough to inspect and replace if it wears.
as said previously dont get crazy with the viscosity ( especially in cool temps ).
 
When I ran a thicker oil (15W40) thru my HV, it blew the oil filter off the pad (no 90* adapter). This happened during a rally-cross event. The oil hit the header and blue smoke covered the track.
I took the plate off and drilled 2 more holes and enlarged them All. I secured the old style plate retainer with one that had a bigger hole, and drilled that out too. installed 10W30
Round two same as the first. but less severe.
I procured a second plate, drilled it to match the first.
Round three almost cured.
Installed 5W30; problem solved.
On the next scheduled freshening, I made some internal changes to the oiling system (Leaks,lol), and was then able to go back to 10W30, but NOT 10W40
Happy HotRodding.

EDIT; Sorry, just noticed I'm in the BB forum; My experience, obviously, is with the SBM.
 
Last edited:
DC Dart said:
Been wondering which oil pump to run std. or HV. I have a 451 with full groove mains and .00225 clearance on the rod and main bearings. I have the oil galley's reamed with 1/2 oil pickup. Going the hemi oil pan route that fits a body. Would normally run the HV oil pump but was concerned about premature wear on the distributor gear? This would be if I went bronze. I am also wondering about the other distributor gear alternatives.
The cam is comp cams XR 280.
440 source rotating assembly
Edelbrock rpm heads
comp cams roller rockers
The car is manual trans and will be mostly street. Any input or experiences would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
 
I build big block Mopar motors my recommendation is melling standard volume I think the part number is a 63 HP also add a milodon oil pressure adjustable regulator set it at 75 lb cold start that's all you need the high volume pumps will make your rear main seal leak
 
I was planning on running the lighter weight synthetic oil. What seems odd to me about the distributor gears is that the with bronze you can run the high volume high pressure pumps while the melonized steel gears say not to.
The distributor gear regardless of material would be happier with the standard pump.
Do the roller lifters lower the oil pressure any versus flat tappet?
I realize that with the roller cam I will be doing periodic checks to make sure my lifters are not spitting needle bearings everywhere and that my rockers are in adjustment.
 
I have run 20w/50 oil in many 440s, never a problem.
I would use the std oil pump, but modify the inlet system to make it more efficient by using the hemi pick up & drilling the inlet passages as described in the Mopar bible.
 
DC Dart said:
Been wondering which oil pump to run std. or HV. I have a 451 with full groove mains and .00225 clearance on the rod and main bearings. I have the oil galley's reamed with 1/2 oil pickup. Going the hemi oil pan route that fits a body. Would normally run the HV oil pump but was concerned about premature wear on the distributor gear? This would be if I went bronze. I am also wondering about the other distributor gear alternatives.
The cam is comp cams XR 280.
440 source rotating assembly
Edelbrock rpm heads
comp cams roller rockers
The car is manual trans and will be mostly street. Any input or experiences would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Look for a coated steel gear.
 
I used the Mancini racing Melonized drive gear. It is compatible with ALL types of cam material, including steel roller.
Not aware of a coated gear? Melonizing is a heat treating process.
 
DC Dart said:
Do the roller lifters lower the oil pressure any versus flat tappet?
I realize that with the roller cam I will be doing periodic checks to make sure my lifters are not spitting needle bearings everywhere and that my rockers are in adjustment.
Click to expand...
Roller tappets should not lower oil pressure in anyway.
I’d also not use needle bearing rollers.
 
Ya know the oil thing has me baffled. My previous Duster was a 340 car, 340 stock stroke, stock rods, TRW forged .030 over pistons, factory heads. Trap speed 118 +, 7K rpm, 7.5K if you ran it out a little, lol.
Oil?
Off the shelf Penzoil 10-W30. 95 psi at idle, 100 psi on a run. This engine was rebuilt AFTER 6 SEASONS. There was no wear on the fully grooved main bearings nor any of the others. Also it was running just fine 6 years later when I sold the car.
My engine builder explained it as thick oil flow slows down due to it viscosity. Lighter oil actually flows more due to the less resistance of the thinner oil.
He told me a story once about NASCAR, (yes he built those too), When he was doing this they would run "machine oil" in the engine for the qualifying laps only. He said the less resistance made them a few mph faster.
 
DC Dart said:
I was planning on running the lighter weight synthetic oil. What seems odd to me about the distributor gears is that the with bronze you can run the high volume high pressure pumps while the melonized steel gears say not to.
The distributor gear regardless of material would be happier with the standard pump.
Do the roller lifters lower the oil pressure any versus flat tappet?
I realize that with the roller cam I will be doing periodic checks to make sure my lifters are not spitting needle bearings everywhere and that my rockers are in adjustment.
Click to expand...
 
If you want to run a roller solid roller lifter part number 5270 morel you'll have to open your wallet never look back they are the best ultra pro big block Mopar you will need to have spring pressure 250 to 350 .600 to 850 open pressure they cost about $1,100 you can get the best deal from competition engineering parts summit sells them for more as far as your distributor drive gear contact milodon I don't see it necessary to run a half inch pickup tube I've never had to I run the 3/8 with the seven plus one pan regular volume oil pump melling m63 HP use a milodon part number 21550 adjustable pressure regulator goes in the back of that oil pump put a manual oil pressure gauge in your engine block use a drill pull your distributor out use a 5/16 hex drive bit Mopar related oil pump drive attach it to your drill turn it the same way the engine rotates set this oil pressure cold at 75 lb don't ever look back that's all you have to do you don't need any more oil pressure than that on a big block Mopar if you have your engine apart you want to take number for main journal and increase the oil feed hole to your lifter galleys as big block Mopar lifters lube through number four main journal contact Hughes engines he sells the reamers and the instructions this will allow more oil flow to your lifters use amsoil 5 30 racing oil remember if you run solid roller cam every few years you may have to replace your valve springs depending on how hard you run it if you drag race a lot also every year you can if you want inspect your lifters but with these lifters you probably would never have a problem
 
If you want to run a roller solid roller lifter part number 5270 morel . You'll have to open your wallet! They cost about $1,100. You can get the best deal from competition engineering parts, summit sells them for more. Never look back they are the best ultra pro big block Mopar. You will need to have spring pressure 250 to 350 .600 to 850 open pressure. As far as your distributor drive gear contact milodon. I don't see it necessary to run a half inch pickup tube, I've never had to. I run the 3/8 with the seven plus one pan regular volume oil pump melling m63 HP. Use a milodon part number 21550 adjustable pressure regulator, goes in the back of that oil pump. Put a manual oil pressure gauge in your engine block, use a drill, pull your distributor out, use a 5/16 hex drive bit Mopar related oil pump drive. Attach it to your drill turn it the same way the engine rotates. Set this oil pressure cold at 75 lb don't ever look back. That's all you have to do. You don't need any more oil pressure than that on a big block Mopar. If you have your engine apart you want to take number four main journal and increase the oil feed hole to your lifter galleys as big block Mopar lifters lube through number four main journal. Contact Hughes engines he sells the reamers and the instructions. This will allow more oil flow to your lifters. Use amsoil 5-30 racing oil. Remember, if you run solid roller cam every few years you may have to replace your valve springs depending on how hard you run it. If you drag race a lot also every year you can if you want inspect your lifters but with these lifters you probably would never have a problem.

Cleaned it up. Makes a lot of sense if you read it.
 
I would only used bushed lifters & Comp has them for under $1000. [ That was about 9m ago, from Summit ].
 
The oil system alterations are already done. 1/2 inch pickup and reamed oil gallies . The rotating assembly is in place. The cam, heads, rockers are in boxes. So I will go forward soon on purchasing more parts. Just getting a parts plan. The hemi 1/2 pickup tube was on back order for a while.
The car is basically being fully restored.i have a TKX trans mocked up and once I finish the hydro clutch install. I will get all that painted and go back to work on the engine.
Those Morel lifters look pretty nice. The comp cams sportsman line is the cheaper bushed lifter I think. The standard version is needle bearing.
That Milidon adjustable regulator could be beneficial.
 
DC Dart said:
The oil system alterations are already done. 1/2 inch pickup and reamed oil gallies . The rotating assembly is in place. The cam, heads, rockers are in boxes. So I will go forward soon on purchasing more parts. Just getting a parts plan. The hemi 1/2 pickup tube was on back order for a while.
The car is basically being fully restored.i have a TKX trans mocked up and once I finish the hydro clutch install. I will get all that painted and go back to work on the engine.
Those Morel lifters look pretty nice. The comp cams sportsman line is the cheaper bushed lifter I think. The standard version is needle bearing.
That Milidon adjustable regulator could be beneficial.
Click to expand...
 
Yeah comp cam stuff is against my religion now they used to be okay everything now is made somewhere I wouldn't want to mention you have no customer support with them you can't get them on the phone and if you did they wouldn't even know what you were talking about if you stick with small companies like bullet cams and other companies like that they always answer their phone and their professional older gentleman that have been in the game for a long time that's how I roll that's what I recommend
 
Yeah. I can clearly see your point. I tried getting through to Comp Cams recently on the phone. Was not successful. Waited on the que next one up then bumped 9 before me. Called later no success. Gave up. Could have emailed questions I suppose.
As stated it's nice to get a knowledgeable person on the phone. That service seems to come from the smaller businesses.
 
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