Solid roller lifters

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Doosterfy

Doosterfy

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Its time to swap out the roller lifters in my 440. I have COMP lifters in it now and they have over two years on them now. The car gets driven about 1000 street miles a year and has about 30 drag passes on it so I don't want to push my luck. I don't want to use another set of COMP lifters so I'm looking for input on what brand had a good reputation. I'm willing to spend a decent chunk on lifters that have a very good reputation.
 
Never had any but from other members posts the mrl lifters seem to be a good choice. I'm sure Mike will chime in on this
 
Doosterfy said:
Its time to swap out the roller lifters in my 440. I have COMP lifters in it now and they have over two years on them now. The car gets driven about 1000 street miles a year and has about 30 drag passes on it so I don't want to push my luck. I don't want to use another set of COMP lifters so I'm looking for input on what brand had a good reputation. I'm willing to spend a decent chunk on lifters that have a very good reputation.
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Been running Isky solid body`s in my 470 BB for 7+ years street/strip and had em rebuilt once years ago when the bearings started to feel funky when I rolled em on my fingertips while setting lash and they`re still goin strong in the 9`s at 7000+ rpms..........
 
Depending on what you run for spring pressures - those lifters are nowhere near needing a rebuild.... and they can be rebuilt. I'm assuming you have a reason for not wanting to keep them - but just sayin'...
 
I'm running Comp 848 AMC lifters in my 470 with the Trick Flow heads. The AMC lifters work great. Roller oiling as well as pushrod oiling and they are rebuildable. I just sent one set back to Comp and it was $170 to get them rebuilt. I have two sets, one set goes back for rebuild while I run the other set. I've used the same lifters for years now in several different engines. I just get them rebuilt every couple of years.
 
AndyF said:
I'm running Comp 848 AMC lifters in my 470 with the Trick Flow heads. The AMC lifters work great. Roller oiling as well as pushrod oiling and they are rebuildable. I just sent one set back to Comp and it was $170 to get them rebuilt. I have two sets, one set goes back for rebuild while I run the other set. I've used the same lifters for years now in several different engines. I just get them rebuilt every couple of years.
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I`ve got a brand new, never ran set of comp big block roller lifters setting in a coffee can ful of 30 wt. oil. used a pair to degree my cam, back in sealed oil container. FOR SALE if any body needs them . make offer. :blob:
 
I sent a pm to Mike at MRL, haven't heard back from him. He's probly very busy building engines. There's a couple of reasons I don't want to keep the COMP lifters, the biggest one being that the only oiling the wheels get is from windage, or oil being flung up from the crank and rods. COMP states that they are not recommended for sustained low rpm (below 3000) use. I spend plenty of time driving below that rpm. I assume that the higher quality products oil the rollers through the lifters with oil from the lifter bores so low rpm use is not an issue. That IS an assumption I need to verify. I run fairly light springs and it may be true the lifters are no where near failure but considering to consequences of one of them fragging I'll feel much better with the piece of mind I'll get by replacing them.
 
moper said:
Depending on what you run for spring pressures - those lifters are nowhere near needing a rebuild.... and they can be rebuilt. I'm assuming you have a reason for not wanting to keep them - but just sayin'...
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I agree... I have been running Comp solid rollers in this Hemi for over 10 years. Mostly street, but they have many track passes on them. I have already bought a replacement set for the engine using the exact same Comp lifters. I will send these off to Comp for a rebuild when I decide to install the new ones. I have removed these lifters a few times and they are pristine. Just sayin'.....
 
there are some lifters now that have pressurized oil to the wheel. the way to go is the Isky lifters with bronze bushing, no needle bearings. same applies to rocker arms
 
I have been running MRL pressure fed lifters in my 360 for 4K miles now all street driven, they haven't missed a beat, I'm really happy with them and would recommend them to anybody.
 
MRL offers roller lifters with bushings instead of bearings as well! I asked Mike if they plan on offering bushed versions in the future and he told me they already do!

SBM/BBM Pro Plus centered pushrod seats are $635, offset pushrod seats are $665. Add $180 for Stage 1 bushing(up to 850#) Add $215 for Stage 2 bushing(over 850#)
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Based on what I've seen in the responces, especially moper and Oldschool I think I was maybe being a little paranoid about my lifters. The new plan is to remove and inspect them and make an assessment. The cam is a COMP XR292-10 Xtreme Energy street solid roller. Its only .582/.588 lift and I went with springs that are one step lower in pressure than what's normally recommended with the cam in order to keep valvetrain stress low. I'm going to check the spring pressures to make sure they're OK also. Going to get rid of the 440 Source valley plate as well, I don't like it because the only way to properly remove it is to remove at least one cylinder head. I had originally tried a factory valley pan with the integrated gaskets but could see it was a no go because the port openings in the stock gaskets were much smaller that the ports in my cnc Stealth heads. Any suggestions with that are welcome, I need a setup where I can easily remove the intake and valley pan to access the lifters.
 
Indy's got a plate with a removable center section for inspections and maintenance. They all go under the heads to seal, so you need one with an access window. Not sure who else has them but I'm fairly sure there's more than indy. You can also have a window machined into yours and fab a cover for it, but it's probably cheaper to buy one.
 
moper said:
Indy's got a plate with a removable center section for inspections and maintenance. They all go under the heads to seal, so you need one with an access window. Not sure who else has them but I'm fairly sure there's more than indy. You can also have a window machined into yours and fab a cover for it, but it's probably cheaper to buy one.
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I built a clear valley plate, was real neat until I got b12 chemtool on it , had to remove it. will do another if I ever get the fish done.:banghead:
 
One can always cut the stock INDY valley plate in half lengthwise for easy removal without removing the heads. Fab/mount an aluminium 'T' to fill the gap in the center created by the cut.
 
famous bob said:
I built a clear valley plate, was real neat until I got b12 chemtool on it , had to remove it. will do another if I ever get the fish done.:banghead:
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I'd probably just have a hole milled and mill a thin aluminum plate so they both are true flat, then use some screws and RTV to seal and hold it in place. Indy uses a gasket to do it which would be faster and easier but I'm not under time constraints. For me, it doesn't need to be a vision panel. Just allow access to inspect the valley when I need to.
 
The clear valley plate is a great idea but it will be out of place on this engine. I like to keep things looking as mundane as possible. Eventually I'm going to strip down the engine bay for a repaint and when I do I'm going to get rid of all the clutter on the inner fenders. The MSD is getting hidden, the coil will be painted black and mounted on the intake and all the electrical things on the drivers side are getting relocated/hidden. I'll check Indy to see what plates they have and it's getting painted Hemi orange like the rest of the engine.
 

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