Solid roller questions....

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Since I cannot get any straight answers I guess I will just stick with a flat tappet.

You have gotten straight answers. You need a lifter that has pressurized oil to the bearings on a street app, plain and simple. There are lifters that do that and there are also quite a few that dont. How many people on here or people that you know personally that run solid rollers IN A MOPAR on the street? MRL's are just the best solid roller I have found for the money PERIOD. Not a commercial, just a straight answer.
 
You have gotten straight answers. You need a lifter that has pressurized oil to the bearings on a street app, plain and simple. There are lifters that do that and there are also quite a few that dont. How many people on here or people that you know personally that run solid rollers IN A MOPAR on the street? MRL's are just the best solid roller I have found for the money PERIOD. Not a commercial, just a straight answer.

SS and AFX has about a dozen or so street driven race hemi's with solid rollers.
 
You have gotten straight answers. You need a lifter that has pressurized oil to the bearings on a street app, plain and simple. There are lifters that do that and there are also quite a few that dont. How many people on here or people that you know personally that run solid rollers IN A MOPAR on the street? MRL's are just the best solid roller I have found for the money PERIOD. Not a commercial, just a straight answer.

Exactly. I've seen people answering your questions throughout this entire disaster of a thread, and all you've done is incessantly reiterate that you're questions haven't been answered. It's excruciatingly annoying. Especially when you attack a vender, and one as cool as Mike. I've spent a lot of time on the phone with him, basically shooting the ****. How many companies are willing to do that, these days?

As he said, and so has Dick Landy... Pressurized oiling holes on a solid roller lifter that will see a good amount of street use, is a good idea. And shrouding along with a larger diameter roller wheel can definitely add to longevity. But maybe for you, the good old flat tappet is the way to go! ;)
 
I tell yall what. Go back and READ my original questions. NOT ONE has been answered directly. All that's been done it push me into buying something.

IQ52 was the closest to do it.
 
IQ52 also gave you a straight answer about bronze gears. You can do what you want just like anyone here. The lifter discussion is when things started going south lol...
 
I am not really familiar with solid rollers as far as the intermediate shaft and gear. What is required?I take it a bronze gear is required with a billet solid roller? How do they wear? Do they last a long time or do they wear quickly? Just thinking about a few different things. Thank you drive through.

Rob,the Howard's" retro fit" hyd rollers,come with a cast iron gear installed on the billet core. Ask for it,they have it (cast iron gear option) available. Run a stock B/RB gear on it.

Use a harden shaft, cheap insurance

I tell yall what. Go back and READ my original questions. NOT ONE has been answered directly. All that's been done it push me into buying something.

IQ52 was the closest to do it.

Those answers didn't cover what you asked, initially?
 
I agree. But it was not MY fault it went south. Somebody jumped in saying "hay buy my stuff!". That's when it took the turn. I don't know much about rollers, but I'm not stupid. I don't take anybody's word for anything. Especially someone trying to sell something. Much the same as all the magazine articles. As long as there are sponsors paying them, their articles will always push their products. I am in this for me. Not anyone else. If someone does not want to or cannot provide the proof I am asking about, I can move on. It's my money and I'm careful with it.
 
Those answers didn't cover what you asked, initially?

What in God's name does a hardened shaft have to do with any of my questions? I didn't ask about the shaft.....and no, none of them answered any of my questions directly. IQ52 pretty much did.
 
I never accused you of reboxing. Sounds like you're getting mighty testy and defensive. Usually when that's the case, somebody has something to hide.

Look, all I am trying to do is get my questions answered. I am not asking for a ******* MRL commercial. All I want is straight answers. "We have proof......" is not an answer. YOU might have proof, but where is it for me? Why have I not read in all the time I have been online (since 1999) about roller lifter failure or short life span?

You shouldn't have to bad mouth someone else's product to make yours look better if it really is and that is exactly what you did. I don't know of any other pressurized roller lifter on the market besides yours, yet somehow, you have still sidestepped my question. All I am asking for is proof for ME not YOU that all the other solid rollers have a short life span. If it's true, you should have no problem proving it. I've certainly had great difficulty finding it myself and I have the same internet you do.

I've not tried to bash your product or say it's reboxed. You brought that up yourself. I don't want a bunch of loose lipped salesman bullshit when I am talking about spending MY money. I want the truth and I want my questions answered. If you cannot do that, then I can just as easily do something different with my money.

I can understand your frustration but read this over from camp cams.

Note where they say the roller bearings and axle usually need to be replaced after each season of use.

Endure-X™ Solid Roller Lifter Rebuild Program

Today's roller lifters face grueling engine environments. Inadequate oiling, excessive spring pressures and valve lash, along with other factors, play a significant part in the failure of the roller, needle bearings and axle. COMP Cams® recognizes the high cost of new parts and designed the Endure-X™ Lifter Rebuild Program to help offset some of that cost.

The roller assembly is often the culprit in roller lifter failure. The lifter body can be buffed and the link bars replaced as necessary. However, the roller bearings and axle usually need to be replaced after each season of use or after any catastrophic engine failure. A sudden lack of motion is even more destructive than the sudden application of motion.

There is a small fee to replace worn or damaged parts, and replacement lifters may be purchased to replace defective or destroyed ones. This is often less than half of the cost of new lifters and ensures long, trouble free operation.

Rebuilt solid roller lifters go through the following steps:

1. Lifter bodies are disassembled and inspected for cracks.

2. Retaining grooves are inspected and cleaned.

3. Lifter bodies are thoroughly washed.

4. A new axle and roller assembly are pressed into the body, and new retaining clips are installed.

5. Lifters are reboxed and returned to the customer.
 
Thanks William. It's much appreciated.
 
I am not really familiar with solid rollers as far as the intermediate shaft and gear. What is required? I take it a bronze gear is required with a billet solid roller? How do they wear? Do they last a long time or do they wear quickly? Just thinking about a few different things. Thank you drive through.

this might be what you're looking for. the billet steel cam eats up the stock gear in short order. the bronze is compatible as is a few other type gears but not iron on steel. the bronze will last a long time and even longer if you machine the underside and install a roller bearing and two races as the shaft sintered bushing eats the bronze up after some time. the aluminum shaft bushing will last with out the bearings.

any time you can add pressurized oil to a cam/lifter combo is a good thing.
 
this might be what you're looking for. the billet steel cam eats up the stock gear in short order. the bronze is compatible as is a few other type gears but not iron on steel. the bronze will last a long time and even longer if you machine the underside and install a roller bearing and two races as the shaft sintered bushing eats the bronze up after some time. the aluminum shaft bushing will last with out the bearings.

any time you can add pressurized oil to a cam/lifter combo is a good thing.

Thanks Bob. That's EXACTLY what I was lookin for. Spot on 100%.
 
Bob wrote: the bronze will last a long time and even longer if you machine the underside and install a roller bearing and two races as the shaft sintered bushing eats the bronze up after some time. the aluminum shaft bushing will last with out the bearings.

I would sure love to hear more about those as I am just about to drop the extended length shaft/bronze gear into my new BB and then the dist. This motor has 700# springs on the nose of the cam and a HV pump. I had to use the extended length shaft because of the external pickup adapter I used.

http://www.milodon.com/oil-system/chrysler.asp

21001 oil pump pickup adapter

21520 extended shaft w/ bronze gear.
 
If you run a solid roller you don't need the hv72 pump. They are recomended for motors that bleed off to much oil from high clearance and hyd. lifters.

Also the bronze gear is use to prevent billet cam wear. Rather slip in a new pump drive then change the cam.

My Duster has a 700 lift solid roller on the street with a bronze gear. It has 1000+ miles at consistent 8000 rpm shifts. It is due for rod bolts and a freshen. The gear will be checked and replaced if needed. So far I see no play at the distributor. Good oil is the key and least pressure from the pump. Most guys just assemble the motor and run it with what ever pressure is there. I would always drop the pan and change the relief spring to lower the pressure if it is to high from tighter clearances.

I usually found the High lift solid rollers wear the lifters before the bronze gear is bad.

But again the gear is used to protect the cam. The coated gears are junk. They are like the coated fuel pump eccentrics.

Another thing that most dont do is set the clearance on the gears. This is done when machine work is taking place After installing the bushing. Cam and drive with pump in place if there is to much or not enough clearance an offset could be reamed in the busing on a on a mill. Just some things my sons machine shop does on high dollar race motors that he does on ours.

I said this before The same parts in different motors make different numbers. It is the machine work that makes the difference. My motor made 829 @ 7900 at the crank. stroker small block. Same motor from another shop on this site. 593 @7200. You either know our your guessing. I leave it to the professionals. Lucky to have one in the family.

The latest is wire and O-rings in place of gaskets on boosted motors. In the head. They do this on diesels at their shop. They just did one of my sons gas motors for 40 psi and their top fuel car. We'll see what happens.
 
< My motor made 829 @ 7900 at the crank. stroker small block. Same motor from another shop on this site. 593 @7200.>

All I can say is WOW! So you drop the pressure to reduce wear / tear. What oil pressure do you think is adequate? 10 PSI / 1000?

I got 50 PSI with 15W-40 Rotella T3 with 1 pint of Comp break in additive when priming at 450 RPM, basically cold idle. I bet the oil pump is taking a bunch of HP at full RPM.
 
this might be what you're looking for. the billet steel cam eats up the stock gear in short order. the bronze is compatible as is a few other type gears but not iron on steel. the bronze will last a long time and even longer if you machine the underside and install a roller bearing and two races as the shaft sintered bushing eats the bronze up after some time. the aluminum shaft bushing will last with out the bearings.

any time you can add pressurized oil to a cam/lifter combo is a good thing.


More info requested on the roller bearing install and this aluminum shaft bushing, pic's would be nice.
 
I'd like to know where to get the aluminum bushing myself. I searched but all I could find were the bronze bushings. I wonder if a Torrington bearing would work there as well?
 
I'm sure he will. He's been a big help so far.
 
the bearing is an INA brand #tc815 below that is #6093566 the bar code is 35373 13030 6. the race is also an INA brand #twa815 below is #6093930the bar code is 35373 13133 6, you will need two of these to make the set. I got these on line somewhere, it's been several years and don't recall but with a little research you will find them or the cross over to them. you just measure the thickness of all three then chuck the drive in a lath and cut the measured amount off the bottom of the gear.

the aluminum bushing is apparently an original stock one and most likely not available any more.
 
Ok. Thanks. So I just make a sammich and measure and take off that amount from the bottom of the drive gear. Right?
 
At least that gives me another option. Thanks Bob.
 
Speaking of solid roller cams... the cam card for a cam close to mine states the lash should be 0.028". That is the cold setting I suppose. What should I set the lash to when the engine is hot? Zero or back to 0.028"?
 
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