SOLVED! 318 2500-3000 rpm idling issue.

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Holley Dominator for small block, large port mopar, is a Spread Bore intake that causes interference with the Square Bore carburetor butterflies.

They need to be machined out or get a Spread Bore to Square Bore adapter to allow them to work right.

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You being a Pontiac Guy, you probably think the spread bore intake is the proper one.

Not for the square bore carbs.

You will probably see the butterfly witness marks at the spread bore opening when you pull the carb off. (Keeping the butterflies from fully closing)


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Post #51 above. The HSD intake has dual pattern mounting for square or spread bore carbs because both types were used on 340 engines. No adaptor needed.
 
As I said earlier in this thread....but the message is not getting through.....
A high idle rpm of 2500+ rpm is because the engine is getting air from somewhere.
High idle rpm is NOT because of:
- ign timing problem
- other ign [ coil, plugs, etc ].
- valve train
Reason is that any problem in the above areas cause a HP loss, & idle rpm would decrease, not increase.

Somebody said engine may have 273 heads. Didn't early heads have a different intake bolt angle? Bolt diameter? Could this be a problem?
 
Just as a simple test.

Bring #1 up on compression stroke and line up the Damper to TDC.

Then pop the cap off the distributor and see if the rotor is pointing anywhere near #1.

Basics... get a feel how far off it is.

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Something is seriously out of whack with his 318 (freshly assembled) engine.

I have a 318 in my '89 Truck with a 1406 Edelbrock 600 cfm carb, and Mopar HEI ignition with the E-Coil easily idling at 500 rpm.

Can pull up to a stop light at that low rpm with my foot on the brake, it doesn't chug or stumble.

Just runs smooth and runs off the stop when the light turns green just fine, no bogging or hesitation just ready to go.

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Been messing with it more today, pinned the fast idle and got the carburetor completely closed. It's set to 12* initial, Totally eliminated the vacuum advance and I think I got the weights to kick off and now I'm able to get it down to 1600 but that's as low as it goes the throttle is closed all the way and runs rich as hell. I can get it closer to 1100-1000 rpm if I bring it to zero degrees or retarded but it makes no vacuum and wants to die and backfires if you hit the throttle.

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What is the camshaft duration at .050 and what's the compression.

If the engine is "oem" and you having trouble with vacuum, sum-ting-wong.

If you have oem pistons and you slid a budget cam in there and the ICL is late... your crutching the combination with timing to keep'r running.

Re-ring with considerable taper?
 
George,
It is NOOOOT ign timing. Or anything to do with ign. If you set ign timing to the generic 8-12* BTDC, the engine will idle at 500-1200 rpm, depending on the cam. If the operator is smart & increases idle timing, such as using man connected vac adv [ or some other method ], idle rpm will increase up to 300 rpm higher. But rpm will never increase up to 2500 rpm just from timing alone.....
 
Illahe,
Your suggestions in post #55 do not cause the engine to idle at 2500+ rpm. The engine needs MORE AIR to idle. A late closing ICL means the cam is installed in the retarded position, & at low rpm, more air will pushed out past the late closing int valve leaving less air to be compressed to make hp. Lower or same idle rpm, not higher.
 
Keep working guys all good answers.

Being nobody has been able to pin down the answer yet, will ask AI (artificial intelligence) to chine in.
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A Dodge 318 idling at 2500 RPM is typically caused by a vacuum leak or an issue with the carburetor or ignition system.
  • Vacuum Leaks: This is the most common cause, where unmetered air enters the intake manifold, creating a lean condition that raises idle speed.

Here is another interesting take:

Ignition Timing: Incorrect timing settings, specifically a lack of proper mechanical advance return or a stuck distributor spring, can prevent the timing from retarding to idle speed.

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Now here is the question:

What is consistent with all the tests and all the parts the OP has switched out during his Process of Elimination diagnostics.

Answer:

It's the same lame DUI converted mopar distributor with what ever the mechanical advance situation is, in use, stuck, or gone...

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Tear it apart guys.


☆☆☆☆☆
 

To idle that high it’s gotta be getting fuel and air from somewhere.
We know it’s getting fuel coz pulling through the boosters.

Where is the air coming from.

Wild about the head gasket rivet, I would be frustrated trying to find that one I know.

I had this a prob once on an old truck. Was pulling air from the hose going to the power brake booster.
 
Wild about the head gasket rivet, I would be frustrated trying to find that one I know.
It wouldn’t idle below 1800 and 5 out of 8 cylinders were making heat. It took me a while to find it, and I didn’t find it until I yanked the engine out and disassembled it. Like I said a leak down test woulda found it.
 
well... i see we covered HEI, super special HOT coils, AI slop, misinformation, wrong information, the inability to quote people and posts properly, poor reading comprehension, and irrelevant pictures.
CHECK! CHECK! CHECK! and CHECK!
 
I don't even have the throttle cable, my car has a factory cable, hooked up. I'm in the motor compartment starting it with a jumper off the harness I made actuating the throttle by hand. It's not going any further forward. The blades and throttle lever are in the same position on and off the intake. Idle set screw is backed out entirely

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Illahe,
Your suggestions in post #55 do not cause the engine to idle at 2500+ rpm. The engine needs MORE AIR to idle. A late closing ICL means the cam is installed in the retarded position, & at low rpm, more air will pushed out past the late closing int valve leaving less air to be compressed to make hp. Lower or same idle rpm, not higher.
Twasn't thinking about the situation in that manner, Ladd.

Strictly low vacuum signal at idle causing it to die, but thanks for the two pence.
 
Hello first post here, this is a cross post from Cbodiesonly I was told to post this here as there is more small block guys in Abodies.

Been pretty stumped the past six weeks so I'm coming here as I'm all out of ideas.

I have a 1967 Plymouth Fury III I'm stalled on because of the motor. I rebuilt the engine, first time doing this, just a home drill hone and re ring. It's a forged crank motor with 920 heads I had decked 20 thousandths and running a 38 thou felpro head gasket I believe compresses to 38 thou and ported the heads by hand. Running a comp 20-233-3 cam which I did manage to break in properly at least, all the lobes looked good when I pulled the intake. Got a JEGs airgap style intake (I mention this because it may be the problem). Im also running a 1980 dodge ram pickup spec electronic distributor new from rock auto triggering a DUI 4 pin HEI module wich I did bench test for spark.

My issue is the engine refuses to idle down even with the throttle set screw backed out on both my known working Edelbrock and factory reman Holley brawler 650. Same issue both carbs and is certainly running rich. Black but dry plugs. I swapped intake gaskets already switched to the felpro 1213 I think is the number. Ive done the intake six times now, 1213s, steel shims, 60 thou felpros, 30 thou felpros you name it. Dry without sealant, with sealant, gooped to hell with sealant. Last time I pulled the airgap I for the life of me could not find anywhere the peramtex failed, and the motor didn't even run right for a few seconds at least right back to where it was. Cannot find a leak anywhere with ether externally which leaves the valley pan. I tried plugging the pcv and holding the breather port right to see if it affected the idling with no luck. No noticable suction and no definitive oil in the plugs. If i cover the primaries the car dies pretty quick, like within a second or two.

I almost tossed the intake and found a period 70s Holly street dominator intake that fit perfectly, bolts holes lined up dead center. It didn't rock around in the V of the heads even a hair, it fell in rock solid. Used metal shim gaskets and a smear of gray permatex and all the bolts went in finger loose didn't interfere with the intake at all, and even then it ran exactaly the same. Nothing I have done has changed even the level of the leak so im starting to think its not the intake.

I have done all the basic stuff, checked for vacumm leaks, plugged vac lines, no power brakes, no vac advance, all the plugs are in the intake, no blind holes are sucking in, tried swapping the wires on the distributor, no binding of the throttle likage disconected. This motor if i turn the timing up to 14-16* will spin above 3000rpm with the throttle blades fully closed, idle mixture screws do nothing it just pulls fuel. Both the carbs I have do this and edelbrock is running on my pontiac I know its good. Cam was installed dot to dot I have photographs no advance notches just a basic double roller.

Engine is making strong compression holds 150psi after a ten or so seconds of cranking. I made the mistake of not doing a bleed down test which is my next step because I have a theory.

Im wondering if the stock 67 rocker arms and pushrods are causing the valves to stay open and while it builds compression at cranking when under full oil pressure could the valves be hanging and need to be shimmed or shorter pushrods installed? the lift of the cam is around .478 and .480 iirc. Would that cause these symptoms because im not sure about pulling the intake for the seventh time, because when i took it off last time i threw so much goop in there theres no way it wasn't sealed at least intitally for a few seconds and why would thus leak be identical in its intensity no matter how many intakes and gaskets I use?

Any help troubleshooting this would be appreciated. I'm very stuck and this car is about to be back burnered unfortunatly.
FWIW:

" Im also running a 1980 dodge ram pickup spec electronic distributor new from rock auto triggering a DUI 4 pin HEI module wich I did bench test for spark."

If you have a single point OEM dist., swap it in there. I keep one around when resurrecting projects that need the wiring harness straightened out.
 
I have had the rivet issue, caught it when I set the head on and it rocked. Leak down should determine if it is pulling air in through there. Does the brawler have an air screw that takes the place of drilling holes in the throttle plates. I know my mighty demon had one I think under the air cleaner stud.
 
For those who want to look into all the diagnostic work that was done on this over on the C Body site, follow along here:


C Body guys gave it a good run, then they recommended that he come over here to FABO to try to come up with a solution.

OP is furiousgeorge over on the C Body site, and they are still commenting looking for a fix.

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