Speed master LA heads

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replicaracer43 said:
I posted about this issue (rocker stand saddles) and how to fix it some months back, but I have no idea how to post a link to my thread. Also @B3RE will also explain the issue to you as well. It's my understanding he wont even sell you a geometry correction kit until you remachine the saddles. Very smart guy, Mike is!
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Here is the link to your 390 build that talks about the rocker stand issue. Good stuff 318 stroker build
 
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roadrunninMark said:
I already purchased the cam kit. It is a Lunati retro roller series..has all the top end parts in one kit with the cam and lifters.
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Can you return it?
You really need to match the cam to the heads you end up with.
What compression ratio are you shooting for?
Auto or 4 speed trans?
 
In my opinion as cast speedmasters will support up to 475 horsepower that would be a pretty stout 318. I think the work fine with your setup but pushrod clearance may be a issue. I don't know for certain I don't run a hydraulic roller but I know the factory enlarges the holes to accommodate the angle from the shorter pushrods or longer lifters.
 
512Stroker said:
Can you return it?
You really need to match the cam to the heads you end up with.
What compression ratio are you shooting for?
Auto or 4 speed trans?
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I bought the KB167s, bored 30 over (should be about 9.5 to 1 w/ 65cc heads), auto trans with overdrive. The cam is a Lunati retro roller 20200711 can't take back, in engine already. specs:
  • Lift: .515''/.530''
  • Advertised Duration: 270°/278°
  • Lobe Separation Angle: 112°
  • RPM Range: 1800-5800
I am thinking 400HP???
 
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roadrunninMark said:
I bought the KB167s, bored 30 over (should be about 9.5 to 1 w/ 65cc heads), auto trans with overdrive. The cam is a Lunati retro roller 20200711 can't take back, in engine already. specs:
  • Lift: .515''/.530''
  • Advertised Duration: 270°/278°
  • Lobe Separation Angle: 112°
  • RPM Range: 1800-5800
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Interesting cam choice, duration @ .050 will be 220-230ish.
Typically this would be a small cam to run with a set of ported heads.
Even the out of box CNC heads a capable of much more cam.
The rpm range seems low, strange, probably due to the 112 LSA?
For sure you will need the right torque convertor to make it work.
Interesting
Good luck
 
33IMP said:
Two years ago, I got a really great deal at speedmasters black Friday sale. (By definition, day after Thanksgiving). I think it was such a great deal they hoped I would cancel the order. I got several different reasons the shipment was late, primarily "we sold so many, we are out of stock". May have been true. They sure managed to charge my credit card right away.
So, prior to any covid distribution problems, I finally got my parts in late February. I would certainly expect delivery problems this year. I believe there is probably a lot of castings sitting in container ships off shore that can't land.
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At least you got your parts, I bought a top end BB kit, they finally canceled and returned my money mid-summer.
I called them several times, they were only missing the intake to complete my order, then after a few more calls they were missing rocker arms, valve covers etc.
They were taking parts off my order to complete other orders.
They will never get another penny from me.
 
I wanted a nice street car, nothing crazy, that is what the road runner is for. It will the a/c hooked up too. The tc is about 2400 stall... 8hp70....

8speed.jpg
 
I am hoping it won't be too bad. Its going to be a lot of fun though when it is done.
 
Jpar.
Post #35. I do not doubt that the springs measure up ok out of the box. I meant what would the tension be like after a few hours of running. I should have been more clear about that.
 
Bewy said:
Jpar.
Post #35. I do not doubt that the springs measure up ok out of the box. I meant what would the tension be like after a few hours of running. I should have been more clear about that.
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I've heard of that... Springs going dead after a heat cycle... I've got to tell ya.. I have never rechecked any springs I've ever had.. But real world experience is I've built my Duster for abuse and after a year and a half of such I've had zero trouble front them...
As far as I'm concerned just mentioning this is food for the internet Boogeyman BS.. again yet to hear anyone who's had a problem with these heads except for the people that know they were cast in China and that's their big hang up not an actual misfunction..
I feel foolish for having them checked out and not just doing the simple check out myself. First place I called laughed and said they wish they could sell brand new heads that had to be inspected. The second place I called said they would need over $900 worth of work to rebuild everything because they're not good heads. And the last place I went to charge me $95 and said there was nothing wrong with them except the lubricant had dried up just a little bit from sitting on a shelf too long.. it wouldn't have made them bad but since he had them apart he took the extra precaution of relubricating them.... And hindsight I could have done the checks that he did likely and re-lubricated them...
My suggestion with these heads is to stop listening to all the internet guru tales about them and buy them on Black Friday for $700 bucks to your door fully loaded, take them apart with the Harbor Freight spring remover clean them up and re lubricate them and run them like you stole them I know I do..
 
j par said:
I've heard of that... Springs going dead after a heat cycle... I've got to tell ya.. I have never rechecked any springs I've ever had.. But real world experience is I've built my Duster for abuse and after a year and a half of such I've had zero trouble front them...
As far as I'm concerned just mentioning this is food for the internet Boogeyman BS.. again yet to hear anyone who's had a problem with these heads except for the people that know they were cast in China and that's their big hang up not an actual misfunction..
I feel foolish for having them checked out and not just doing the simple check out myself. First place I called laughed and said they wish they could sell brand new heads that had to be inspected. The second place I called said they would need over $900 worth of work to rebuild everything because they're not good heads. And the last place I went to charge me $95 and said there was nothing wrong with them except the lubricant had dried up just a little bit from sitting on a shelf too long.. it wouldn't have made them bad but since he had them apart he took the extra precaution of relubricating them.... And hindsight I could have done the checks that he did likely and re-lubricated them...
My suggestion with these heads is to stop listening to all the internet guru tales about them and buy them on Black Friday for $700 bucks to your door fully loaded, take them apart with the Harbor Freight spring remover clean them up and re lubricate them and run them like you stole them I know I do..
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Read less run more, right?? These heads may have been stockpiled in their warehouse for some time in years past (evidenced by the born on dates initially) to where the lube likely solidified to some degree by the time they moved hem but with the sales they’ve had and the more current born on dates shown here recently I bet that there wouldn’t be that particular issue. I know the heads we bought last year were stamped 2020 IIRC and we waited for them to be built (as they clearly stated when we ordered them) and after some quick poking around it was clear the lube was fresh
 
512Stroker said:
If this is going to be a budget street build you have an option to work with the heads you have. Do some porting on your iron heads and port match the intake.
A good valve job and down the road you go.
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you are right about that , I had a set of stock heads ported on my 340 changed them for a set of ede alu heads made no dif at the track . only thing it did was take a bit of weight off the front end . As for new alu heads good luck everything was backordered when i looked 2 months ago they all said November they would have stock , maybe
 
replicaracer43 said:
I posted about this issue (rocker stand saddles) and how to fix it some months back, but I have no idea how to post a link to my thread. Also @B3RE will also explain the issue to you as well. It's my understanding he wont even sell you a geometry correction kit until you remachine the saddles. Very smart guy, Mike is!
Click to expand...

Here's your thread, pics are at the end of page 1 and onto page 2.

318 stroker build

Have you seen other heads that had the same issue, and can you tell us what the mfg date stamped on your heads were? Curious if they were from a earlier or later batch, or just a once off mistake.

I'm looking back at my build pictures and I'm not seeing what you saw, and I'm running one of Mikes kits.
 
TurboGLH said:
Here's your thread, pics are at the end of page 1 and onto page 2.

318 stroker build

Have you seen other heads that had the same issue, and can you tell us what the mfg date stamped on your heads were? Curious if they were from a earlier or later batch, or just a once off mistake.

I'm looking back at my build pictures and I'm not seeing what you saw, and I'm running one of Mikes kits.
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I read the tech bulletin from Mike's site. Looks like the saddles need to be bored to 7/8" as it looks like they are 3/4" or so. It would be interesting to see if this issue has been fixed. Has anyone emailed SpeedMaster to inform them of this issue and any of the other issues? If yes, have they responded back?
 
roadrunninMark said:
I read the tech bulletin from Mike's site. Looks like the saddles need to be bored to 7/8" as it looks like they are 3/4" or so. It would be interesting to see if this issue has been fixed. Has anyone emailed SpeedMaster to inform them of this issue and any of the other issues? If yes, have they responded back?
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BAHAHA....
 
1Badcolt said:
Thats BS / hate to see that , are the intakes made in China also ?
Thanks Chris
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I thought that I read just recently that edelbrock heads are cast here in the states, Mississippi is where I think that they are going to come from. I believe that the article said that all of edelbrock casting was going to be done in the states. Who makes a decent quality 160-180 intake runner size cylinder head for a 318 these days? I talked to the machine shop / engine builder and he said that cylinder heads with intake runner size of 180 or more would kill off the low to midrange torque and throttle response of a 318. Is that true? The car is going to be a cruiser, no track time. Horsepower goal around 325 flywheel. My main concern is throttle response and low to midrange torque.
 
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