RPM! No brainer!
Speedmaster MidRise Air Intake Manifold
- Thread starter 70 Buster 340
- Start date
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My least choice of the three would be the streetmaster. Cast 340 or SM intake, depends on which look you like, and if you do a lot of start ups in cold weather.
j par
Well-hung Member
Yeah that's a dilemma. Is it the 318 streetmaster? I know that has smaller runners but so do your heads if they're the factory 318 heads. It's likely coming out of that Speedmaster intake the air and fuel theoretically hit the wall...
I guess it kind of depends on what that cam is and the gears you're running and also what you're hopes are and what rig putting it in...
You are correct on the title. Yet you are injecting what? Newly joined doesnt mean new to anything else. And yes i do own one of these intakes. Maybe thats why i was reading the thread? First i thought maybe you were not up to par on your knowledge of Fords. The more i hear from you im thinking you are just an arrogant dumbass who thinks hes cool. One thing for sure. You claim to have ford knowledge. And you say 351C is junk. You are stupid AF. I own a few of those also. They are a force to be recond with. Now if you dont mind, ive got more important things to do.
I got one of these intakes second hand. The guy i got it from has a dart he drag races. Dont know for how long but he did have it running with it. There is slight carbon buildup starting at egr port. Can also see where he ground out on a couple bolt holes. Other than that it looks out of the box. Not sure why but some reason he took this off and replaced it with edlebrock air gap. And sold to me for 40.00
Im attempting to put it on a 76 360. Shouldnt be any modification to this engine . the truck only has 15000 miles on it. But when i sat the intake on it it doesnt seem to fit. To start i had only drivers side valve cover removed. Thought it might have been the other valve cover holding me up. Removed the other vc. Now it looks better but still doesnt look good. After inserting a screwdriver in holes to line it up the holes appear to all line up. Ive got 5 bolts threaded in part way. Seems to be sitting on the end seals but can easily put feeler gauge between intake and head. With as thick as the end seals are maybe it will seal when torqued. I sould have had this figured out already. But i missplaced the new bolts. And when i was working on it my fingers got cold and i said F it. Knowing it was a china knock off i question the casting. The ports seemed to line up very good using the gasket. The rear edge of intake almost hits the distributor hold down.
Im attempting to put it on a 76 360. Shouldnt be any modification to this engine . the truck only has 15000 miles on it. But when i sat the intake on it it doesnt seem to fit. To start i had only drivers side valve cover removed. Thought it might have been the other valve cover holding me up. Removed the other vc. Now it looks better but still doesnt look good. After inserting a screwdriver in holes to line it up the holes appear to all line up. Ive got 5 bolts threaded in part way. Seems to be sitting on the end seals but can easily put feeler gauge between intake and head. With as thick as the end seals are maybe it will seal when torqued. I sould have had this figured out already. But i missplaced the new bolts. And when i was working on it my fingers got cold and i said F it. Knowing it was a china knock off i question the casting. The ports seemed to line up very good using the gasket. The rear edge of intake almost hits the distributor hold down.
I always recommend test fitting intakes without the end seals before bolting it down for final assembly. I never personally use those Gaskets but I will take feeler gauges and see how high I have to Dam it with black silicone. With an intake like these I then check my bolt alignment and snake a camera down the runners to check port alignment.
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j par
Well-hung Member
you don't comprehend very well I told you I was just giving one of the other members that I've known for years a little s***..
Okay computer tough guy, call me a dumbass... Newbe.. lol..
I don't give a rat's *** about your Ford 351 Cleveland...
j par
Well-hung Member
I've never heard of anybody using the front or rear China Wall gasket...
a lot of times there's a dowel pin in the factory block in the center of the China wall that needs to be taken out.
I always use a double stacked bead of RTV on the front and rear China Wall. Extra in all four corners and a little smear around the water ports.. Edelbrock gasket cinch on everything else front and back... I've never had a leak..
But I'm a dumbass what do I know...
Oh yeah I'm going to use mine to put on my son's 76 Dodge truck with a 360 LOL..
Sometimes i use end gaskets sometimes not. Ive seen issues both ways. I try to avoid any cork gasket. Never had a problem with rubber end seals. Not sure if ive seen them for a small block chrysler. I work on all makes and models. Have seen with rtv if not careful placing intake. If it doesnt go on perfect and even the rtv gets squished out leaving a big void. Have also seen many many times an engine that was destroyed by rtv. Too much used and sucked up into oil or water pump plugging up passages. Im a certified master tech. Have installed many gaskets on many kinds of vehicles for many years. Seldom have any problems. This intake is not what i would call ideal for the application. But the factory 2 barrel isnt either. Thats junk. I dont want it to fall on its face every time i push the accelerator. Nowadays everyone wants a fortune for everything. I would have preferred a regular dual plane intake for my 76 W300 with 15000 miles . i would have preferred it had a 440 instead of a 360 also. But for now a decent carb will do. Its got dana 70 rear and dana 60 front and 4spd with a 20000 lb pto winch and an extra pto . in future maybe it'll get a big block? Was mainly wondering if anyone has had problems with this intake other than port alighment. This one seems right on the money for that. The rear of it could use some grinding. And likely will. I was trying to put this together as quickly as i could due to the weather and having other things to do. So tried cutting corners. Hence leaving one valve cover installed. Also didnt want to mess with removing the mammoth 300A alternator which is where the AC pump usually is. Thats why i tried the cork end gaskets. Getting the intake on square and even in one motion would be a feat. Looked way off with vc on. After removing it looks much better. Found my new bolts. So ill pull it back off. Apply some fresh rtv in the corners. Then torque it down. Probaby take a die grinder in the distributor area too. If that doesnt work ill just have to get everything out of the way and see whats up.
I should have added when I do my test fitting I have a nice heavy duty black magic marker that I trace a “cheater-line” on the front dam of the block. Kinda gives me a nice target line to line things up instead of bolt holes that you can’t see till you get it almost in place.
I could see that helping. However in this instance i dont think it would help much. With the 300A alternator in the way you cant hardly see the front of the intake. (Retired fire truck) Then add trying to balance yourself and everything else head first over the fender/grill by holding the cowl or master cylinder with one hand. Shoulda been a circus act. Some trucks you can sit under hood on fender with feet on frame. Not this one. Not with my big feet and 6'3". Several times i about got stuck in there. Had to pull one foot out at a time then wiggle the rest out. Then push off and jump hoping to land in a good spot. Then try that as your belly snags on the hood latch. Ya dont want to go there. Im just lucky im not fat and wasnt much to snag.
Pretty sure it's going to work. Glued end seals to block with yellow 3m weatherstrip adhesive. Glued intake gaskets to heads with same. Put ultrablack at 4 corners and smeared a finger with it around waterports and across top of end seals. Torqued it down. Appears to have sealed. Just enough squish to make a black line in all the right places. And thinnest feeler gauge i have wont even think of fitting anywhere. This intake is machined poorly. If i had paid 260 bucks for it like the guy i got it from id have been very unhappy. But for 40 bucks im fine with it. Still waiting on an AFB rebuild kit and metering rod plungers so cant start it yet. Only real issues i found were the surface for the intake to head bolts to tighten werent machined. One required a slightly longer bolt. And the angles were a bit off so bolt loading isnt like it should be. Also with the way the multi-fit holes and plugs are desighned you cant bolt on the brackets for the throttle cable and return spring. I went ahead and bolted it together without the brackets. Should be able to get slightly longer bolts with spacers and make it work. Only other way would be machining plug and surrounding metal. Looks like you would be removing too much to be able to use plug. Dont figure the plug is really needed anyway. But couple spacers and bolts far easier. And ill likely end up replacing it when i run across something thats priced right. Im not going to pay what most want for them nowadays. A factory 4bbl intake would be fine. But not when they want as much or more than the price of a new one. Hell ive given them away and turned down freebies. Multiple used of all sorts for 20-40 bucks in past. Mean time ill be rid of that Holley 2245.
Not hardly anything made here anymore. And they dont have to do much of anything to claim made in usa. Many times they just assemble it here. Or i got a scoup shovel that had a big sticker and a tag claiming made in usa turned it over and was stamped china. Called the manufacturer and asked about it. They hung up on me like 4 times. Finally i was told they assemble them in Texas. Then he said " and i think maybe they make the handle. " . so maybe make the handle.... With an automated machine. Probably a machine assembling them too. So no jobs. So edlebrock likely has them cast in china then sent here for cnc to finish it. From looks of the speedmaster i aquired id say china just skips that step.
I’m not sure Speedmaster stuff is made in China.
nice truck you're building the 440 swap is easy , did one on a 77 w-150 , made a huge difference . good luck with your truck post a pic or 2 , just love them old Dodge truck. I'm looking to buy one f i can find one with a decent body and frame
This is completely 100% incorrect.
The heads are cast in California.
most the edelbrock **** I've bought has been good . The shop i go to has bought edelbrock heads and intakes for years and most parts have been good very few returns . They sure put enough made in USA STICKERS and statements on the boxes .Unless they are faking all the videos I believe they are made in the US
Beats me. But i thought were talking about intakes? Either way give em some time. Everything else goes to china. I dont think any bearings are made anywhere but china. I couldnt find any. Think timken was last to go. Probably doesnt matter much for quality. Seems nobody cares about making quality anymore. Besides if we dont get these screwy politicians straightened out we might not have a country.
In Southern Kalifornia.....but is Southern Kalifornia still in the USA,,,,,
all I can say is , wow that is nice ! you can do a remake of emergency , calling squad 51
They don't build them like that now , with proper maintenance and cleaning it will last forever . i put over 700,000+ miles om my w150 but the salt got to it after 14 years
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Looks like it didn't seal. Got it all together and it tried to start but kept backfiring. Found the rotor had rubbed inside the distributor cap and it was full of metal shavings. Replacing the cap and rotor helped. Now it will start and run at hjgh rpm. But it won't idle. It sounds pretty good. Then starts surging. As the rpms get down close to where it should idle it backfires and dies. Will only run with choke on. So ill be getting another gasket and doing it again.
I've got a 440 in a 79 Coachman motor home. I think the exhaust manifolds and oil pan on it would work. I'd probably have to get a flywheel and a bell housing. And if i was going to do all that id want to get new pistons and .maybe heads. It is a low compression engine.
Actually the 360 and 4.88 gears seems to have plenty of power.
But the best part of this truck was the price. I only paid $2300.00 for it. But i did have to replace all the brake lines.
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WTruo
Well-Known Member
Ditto
I know it's been a while . Meant to do this several months ago. But so many people get in these forms , go on about something. Then they just leave it hanging. I didn't want to be that person. So for what it's worth, the speed master intake is a P.O.S. Ended up removing and installing it 3 times. Had 5 or 6 different carbs on it. A couple Edelbrocks , an AVS , a couple Holleys , and a quadrajet. It liked the quadrajet the best. Driving it with the quadrajet worked really good. The problem was at an idle and slow speeds. When I was climbing around adjusting things my hand and a rag ended up covering the carb. That's when I realized you could block off the choke housing and it would just keep on running. I couldn't actually see the problem . But using propane I found there is a hole or crack under the runners around #6 or #8 cylinder. So the stock 2 barrel intake and carb went back on.
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