SS spring question

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remytherat

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Saw some springs for sale locally. Part numbers 3690460/3690461.

Do these fit an A body?

And if so would they be a good choice over clapped out 340 springs?

They are cheap
 
More than likely they are too stiff for general street use, as they are rated for a 3600lbs car. Plus, they are biased in order to counteract launching torque, which may or may not suite your tastes.
 
Technically, they ALL fit A bodies dont they??? I thought that was the reason you need different front spring hangers on anything else.
Correct. And there are more than a few different front hangers for all the cars. Probably 6 or more for B bodies alone.
 

A spring shop should be able to 'reset' your original springs back to factory spec.
 
SS springs leave one side 1" higher than the other for launching purposes. Some buy 2 LHS springs for a street car to avoid this. Unless you don't mind the right side being a bit higher.
 
Saw some springs for sale locally. Part numbers 3690460/3690461.

Do these fit an A body?

And if so would they be a good choice over clapped out 340 springs?

They are cheap

ss springs are abody length. they go by weight of the car though. i wouldn't run that garbage on the street. many better options out there these days.
 
ss springs are abody length. they go by weight of the car though. i wouldn't run that garbage on the street. many better options out there these days.
I used to run two, 3400lbs driver's side SS springs on both my A-Body and E-Body. The A-Body still has them and they ride and work great after over a decade. The E-Body worked well enough, but the ride in the rear of that car was always significantly rougher than the A-Body. Both cars weigh roughly the same too at 3700 lbs.

I ended up trying the ESPO + 2 springs in the E-Body and the ride was much more compliant, launched well and the ride height was perfect for the l like.
 
I saw a chart on here that suggests that all the ss springs for auto trans cars are 125lb/in, regardless of the vehicle weight rating. Does this mean that the only difference is how arched they are, as in, how high the rear will ride?

I think I'm going to pick these up and give them a go, since they're inexpensive and not a difficult job.
 
The SS springs are ALL A body length in order to take advantage of their shorter 20" front spring segment. That short and stacked segment doubles as both a spring and a traction bar, as it lifts the body, while it PLANTS the tires on the ground from the twist of the rear axle housing. The SS springs are separated into weight categories. USUALLY the 002-003 SS springs are what A bodies use. That's the 3000-3200 pound springs. Some people think they ride a little harsh, but they never bothered me. Neither did it bother me that the car favored the driver's side while static. That's just how they're designed so they launch the car straight. If you are just building a street only car, you may not need the SS springs.
 
I run two of the 3690461 springs on the rear and a set of PST 1.03" Torsion Bars on the front. Car is a 72 Scamp. Street car small block with factory A/C. Factory shocks front, rear are Mopar but I can remember the part number because they are longer than stock. The car handles great on the street and sits perfect. Just right in the rear because I always though these cars sat to low in the back. The 1.03 are bit stiff at first but they soften up after use. The SS springs are still the same height after over 15 years on the car. So yea on the street they are fine but I'd match the P/N or it will sit funky.
 
I saw a chart on here that suggests that all the ss springs for auto trans cars are 125lb/in, regardless of the vehicle weight rating. Does this mean that the only difference is how arched they are, as in, how high the rear will ride?

I think I'm going to pick these up and give them a go, since they're inexpensive and not a difficult job.
Check your shock length at full suspension droop to make sure the shocks are not bottoming out. I've had that issue on my E-Body. Resolving it allowed the rear suspension to work more effectively, especially during a hard launch. It's an RB stroker with manual transmission.
 
Check your shock length at full suspension droop to make sure the shocks are not bottoming out. I've had that issue on my E-Body. Resolving it allowed the rear suspension to work more effectively, especially during a hard launch.
Yup. The SS springs work the suspension so well, they normally need a shock about 2" longer on the rear. We used to run Imperial shocks on the rear.
 
Factory front replacement shocks. They did soften up after running them awhile. It did have KBY to begin with. That was way to stiff! LOL.
 
Factory front replacement shocks. They did soften up after running them awhile. It did have KBY to begin with. That was way to stiff! LOL.

go bilstein shocks. not cheap but well worth it.. my 1.08 bars feel great with them.. way better then the 1" bars and kyb that were on it.
 
I like the way it handles now but thanks for the info. Took some trial and error but it feels good to me. :-)
 
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