starter will not disengage

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razorback

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ok so i think the reason my first mini starter fried itself was due to it not disengaging..its really hard to hear it due to the mufflers right after it so did not event hink that was what caused the first one.. ok so i got my new one and it does the same thing.. what do i need to check to figure out why its not disengaging? i already tried to turn the key back one thinking it was sticking but it just shut the car off so i know thats not it. next guess is starter relay wiring.. i have the main heavy duty wire going to the big lug on starter, the smaller one going to the other small lug on the starter.. so i know those have to be right.. now onto the spade connectors..

the relay i have is the 2 spade one.. i have ground for one and the "start" for another.. im pretty sure thats not right, as ive seen 2 diff schematics and both were different.. any help appreciated
 
Unhook the starter solinoid wire and put a light bulb or volt meter on it. try it and see if it stays on. the two spades are the relay coil wires one goes to neutral safety and the outher ignition switch. It shouldnt matter witch one goes where.If it stays on unplug ign.I would change the relay just to play it safe if you don,t find something.
 
I had this happen once, my theory was that the starter gear was hanging up on the flywheel. I made a very small shim and loosend up the starter a little, then I inserted shim betwen the starter and housing to give the starter a slight pitch away from the block, then tighten up. Crude but it worked and I have not had a problem since. This was a stock starter.
 
you could hook a light bulb up with the starter temporarily to monitor till your satisfied you are ok.
 
i dont think its due to the shimming thing. i bought a new relay today and i double checked the wiring. i think i had one hooked up when i intended to unhook it..so it was getting constant juice.. battery died before i got to test it again, but will try it tomorrow.
 
no dice i know its something with my wiring now, it has to be something i did backwards. im really considering just going with the all in one kit, and eliminating all the wire
 
so the starter is staying in gaged when you hook up battery....after you installed the starter selonoid......you must have the wires crossed.....find a schematic....I don;t have one.....
 
its all new wiring, it is a complete custom setup. thats why im having issues, i HATE wiring.
 
homecloned said:
I had this happen once, my theory was that the starter gear was hanging up on the flywheel. I made a very small shim and loosend up the starter a little, then I inserted shim betwen the starter and housing to give the starter a slight pitch away from the block, then tighten up. Crude but it worked and I have not had a problem since. This was a stock starter.
Click to expand...

If it worked it worked. But if you made a shim to tilt the starter away from the block, assuming the mounting bolts would act as a pivot point what you did would have moved the back end of the starter closer to the flywheel.
 
68 Sedan said:
If it worked it worked. But if you made a shim to tilt the starter away from the block, assuming the mounting bolts would act as a pivot point what you did would have moved the back end of the starter closer to the flywheel.
Click to expand...

You are correct 68 Sedan, it's tilted slightly toward the block. I know it sounds rigged but the shim is no more then a 1/32", very minor but enough for the starter to disenguage. I probably have something wrong with my starter drive so this was a quick fix and hasn't been a problem yet. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
 
ok i tested the ballast after buying a new one, and both sides are only reading 1.8 volts..what could cause that? i know i have one wire wired to "start" hot and the other wired to "run"

but with the ign in "run" im still only getting 1.8..
 
Get a wireing diagram.make shure your on the right wire. Follow the wire back through the fire wall to the ignition switch checking for power till you find it.possible problems.plug on fire wall, ignition switch,wro.ng wire.
 
ok i get the power i need. power when starting, and power when ign on.. but when i hook the wires to the ballast i have nothing. but .5ish volts. ive tried 3 ballasts, hooking up the combo every way i can think of. ive checked every wire, nss, oil prssure switch, grounds, etc. even tried to bypass the coil directly to battery. nothing. just no spark..could my ecu be dead? its a new orange box.. any way i can test it?
 
dont jump around to things that arn,t broke.focus on one thing at at a time till its verified ok.the ballast resistor gets 12 volts from the ign switch on one side when the key is on run and 12 v on the outher side when the starter is engaged if you dont have it on one wire follow it back till you find it.
 

ok i thought a little more when you put a load on it it opens. leave it hooked up and key on when you check it. if you dont have power then go to the ignition switch if you have it their it would probably be the fire wall plug. focus on one wire at a time.
 
should the side the ign "run" is hooked up to get the same voltage as the wire when its not hooked up, and the other side of the ballast half that? it seems like once its hooked up to ballast it loses all its power. the positive side of the terminal should have what voltage?

i also got the msd blaster 2 coil, it says i need a balast for points only, but im running a converted 85 elec dizzy..do i still need a balast? any way i can test my coil?
 
Did this start happening with the msd? Ballast gets 12v; start gets 12 v; then it drops to about 8v on run. I think msd wiring is wrong.
 
razorback said:
ok i tested the ballast after buying a new one, and both sides are only reading 1.8 volts..what could cause that? i know i have one wire wired to "start" hot and the other wired to "run"

but with the ign in "run" im still only getting 1.8..
Click to expand...
need 12v from switch.
 
if you loose it on the wire comeing frome the switch when you put a load on it you have a bad conection or faulty part betwean your test point and the battery follow the path back till you find it
 
i switched to another wire, and am now getting 12vs to the ballast, the other side is getting between 7-8volts.. i get the 7 volts to the coil, and 7 volts out of the coil going into dist, but it will still not start. im going to try and have my orange ecu tested tomorrow, unless someone knows how i can test it with a volt meter. also, does what side the ign go in and the coil go out matter? how warm should the ballast get?
 
ok i started testing my dist and its only 287 ohms.. according to moparts tech section it should be 375-425.. so that may be part of it.

at this point im leaning towards the ready to run procomp dizzy i see on ebay for 100 bucks.
 
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