starting issue

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purplescamper

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I having problems starting my 360. first I have a ready to run hei ignition system
if I leave the key in the crank position it will run, as soon as I let off on the key it stalls.
it really think the car was to runs, it sounds good. any ideas ? also I want it to stay running so I can break the engine in
 
didnt someone awnser this question for you?

RedFish said:
original ignition switch fed 2 separate wires, a blue and a brown. One hot in start, the other hot in run, and most have simply tied these 2 together. Some have reported misfire or backfire as the switch changes from start to the run. I don't know what ignition systems those were or how they cure it.
Click to expand...

did you chase this down and do as red suggested?

listen man, you need to give some serious thought to your cam
if you've been spinning this engine with a new cam that has never been broke in there is a good chance there is no more assembly lube on it at this point and she is ready to drop a lobe


ive been looking over some of your posts (trying to help with your fuel delivery issue) and i think we need to take a step back and really assess the situation here

you got what?
73 scamp
new tank
new sending unit
painless wiring harness
MSD ignition
fresh build 360
carter electric fuel pump

not enough fuel pressure to run
not running when the key is on



get yourself a voltage meter and turn the key in "run" position
see what voltage is on the coils hot side and report back to us
 
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I have an American autowire harness . this is where I'm at now. put my meter on the coil wasn't getting a reading. went to bulkhead connector noticed the pink and brown wires (battery and tach ) wire spades were not seated well and were loose, tried to tightened , well you know how that works going to order new spades and install them, make sure everything is tight and try again and i'll let you know how well ( or not well) I do.
 
IT IS NOT THE HARNESS IT IS IN THE IGNITION SWITCH

If you are using a Mopar factory (or replacement) switch and not some aftermarket switch or a toggle, you must jumper IGN1 and IGN2 together
 
purplescamper said:
not going to be able to work on it to next week. you're referring to jumping at the starter relay
Click to expand...
The MSD needs full-time power coming from the ignition switch; not a delay between cranking and running as you release the key. It doesn't matter where you jumper these two circuits together. On factory harnesses it is easiest to to just remove the dual-ballast ignition resistor, and wire all those removed wires together. Also any tachometer you install has to be wired a certain way. Read your MSD instructions carefully.
 
UPDATE: found a couple of loose connections at the bulkhead connector. fixed them, fired right up
I let run about 15 minuets oil pressure gauge pinned. would not idle below 2500 rpm got some oil leaks......any ideas ??
 
purplescamper said:
would not idle below 2500 rpm got some oil leaks......any ideas ??
Click to expand...

As always "basics......."

Remove carb if necessary, check throttle cable adjustment and "if" carb butterflies are closing, and don't forget the secondaries

VACUUM LEAKS don't discount anything including cracked / porous intake

Where is the timing?
 
It has nothing to do with the fuel system. I had this once when I rewired my car. Just wish I could remember what I did to fix it. But it was an easy fix.
 
67Dart273 said:
As always "basics......."

Remove carb if necessary, check throttle cable adjustment and "if" carb butterflies are closing, and don't forget the secondaries

VACUUM LEAKS don't discount anything including cracked / porous intake

Where is the timing?
Click to expand...
I don't know...I tried to turn the distributor to see if I could get the idle down but no good.....couldn't adjust the idle on the carb all the adjustments were turned all the way in but were loose and not doing anything
 
Well if every thing is closed, and the fast-idle cam is not hung up,then it will not run.
Even if you have a big vacuum leak it will not run, since there is no fuel in that air.
The only possibility is that you have both a big air leak and fuel is getting into that air from somewhere, not normal. And for that to happen simultaneously has got to be nearly impossible.
 
^^Actually it could, Holley leaking power valve, etc etc etc but let's not go into that LOL^^
 
these are loose, turned all the way in still not making contact

carb stop.jpg
 
Well it seems kindof obvious that the primaries are not closed.
Either the throttle is hung up on the choke system, or the throttle cable is stuck/misadjusted,or there is something jammed in the throttle blades.
I love TQs.

And I vote it's the choke system, cuz that lower screw should be sitting waaay further down. Or I suppose it could be that the cable is anchored in a 2bbl bracket, and that would be a bad. The only way to make a stock 2bbl anchor work is to clamp the cable on the sheath, and that is a no-no.

So my tip is to 1) disconnect the throttle cable from the arm, and if the throttle does not snap shut, then 2)to disconnect the choke mechanism, on the passenger side and push down gently on the fast idle arm, and the throttle should snap shut.
If the throttle blades are still hung open, you will need to inspect the secondary link-rod, and if that is OK, then
the throttle blades would have to have become loose on the shaft and shifted.To correct this, the baseplate would need to be removed.

OOps I missed one. If the accelerator pump is hung up or the link rod was bent, I suppose it could lead to this situation. But in the pic, it looks OK.
 
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