Starts in Neutral not in Park.

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Kent mosby

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I had to drop the valve body to fix a parking pawl problem a while back. I had removed the neutral safety switch and replaced the pan with an aluminum one. When I got it all back together the car would not start in Park, Only neutral. I drained the pan, took it off and replaced the Neutral safety switch. Still only starts in neutral. I have a quicksilver shifter that mounts to the pan bolts and its position may have shifted a minute amount. Could the issue be that I need to adjust the cable? Would you shorten it or lengthen it?

To test the adjustment I could check the pins of the switch, correct? If so would it be a continuity test between pins? Which pins would have continuity when in Park?

Thanks,
 
The easy way to check continuity is to access the wire from the CENTER terminal of the NSS which goes up the firewall and connects to one of the push on "flag" terminals on the starter relay. It grounds in Park/ Neutral

"Usual suspects" are problems with the comb, problems with the switch (and these days poor quality replacement) and maladjusted or worn shifter

I Had one shifter (have to look it up) which was very fussy because the "throw" of the shifter was so small. I later ran a Cheetah shifter which has longer travel. Now, don't get confused---the shifters use different/ proprietary shift levers at the trans, so the rotational degrees of the shift shaft "should" be the same, but because the one used a very short throw--and ver short movement in the cable, this means that any play'/ slop/ wear is sort of magnified, where the Cheetah, moving further, "error" is a lesser part of the whole, so to say

On at least one of my shifters, I had to adjust "back and forth" to strike a happy medium so that both would "engage" the switch both in P and N
 
I would try screwing in the switch another 1/2 turn. It could be that the rooster comb tip is just a tad shorter in P compared to N.
 

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Simple adjustment. Nothing but the result or removing and reinstalling the cable bracket along the pan rail like was mentioned in the initial post. Again, simple adjustment.
 
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I would try screwing in the switch another 1/2 turn. It could be that the rooster comb tip is just a tad shorter in P compared to N.
If it's tight it's tight. They have a tapered seat which has to be seated fully not to leak
 
It is a possibility that the rooster comb on the valve body got bent slightly if the valve body was not handled carefully. I would try the cable adjustment first since its more likely the problem.
 
I have a quick silver shifter that did the same thing after a trans fluid change. My shifter cable bolts to the pan bolts, so it gets moved when you take the pan off. I assume yours is the same. Try adjusting the cable a little & see if that fixes it.
 
Adjust your linkage rods l had the same problem,thats what mine was.
 
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