Steering arm bolt interference

[bricud]

I am rebuilding the front end on my 1969 barracuda. New upper control arm, rebuilt lower control arm, all new ball joints and disk brake conversion. After assembling the first side (driver's side), I notice that the through bolts that connect the spindle to the ball joint steering arm seem to go through too far hitting the lower support for the anti sway bar (part of the lower control arm). With the car up on jack stands, it significantly limits the turning radius as the bolt end hits the anti sway bar mount. The factory bolts have the heads on the inside (checked other side not done yet) but I tried it that way and the threaded end of the bolt hits the rotor. So I reversed them as shown to avoid rotor interference. Since the car is not loaded and the suspension is hanging low, I assume with tires on and sitting on the ground this may be a non-issue since the bolt should move up in relation to the anti sway bar mount but I didn't want to find out there is a problem after things are buttoned up. Kind of hard to explain but I hope this makes sense. Here are a few pics. I am using the bolts that came with the brake conversion kit as they are larger diameter than the factory bolts. My other option is to grind off the excess threads or find shorter bolts. Thanks for your help.

Brian

 

[Dana67Dart]

Search here on FABO there are several in the last couple years discussing the same issue

 

[RustyRatRod]

I believe those fasteners are incorrect for the lower ball joint. Bolts too long and those nuts are ridiculously thick from what I remember. I could be mistaken, but I know someone that will tell us. @hemi71x How bout it Jim? Am I imagining things?

 

[72bluNblu]

I believe those fasteners are incorrect for the lower ball joint. Bolts too long and those nuts are ridiculously thick from what I remember. I could be mistaken, but I know someone that will tell us. @hemi71x How bout it Jim? Am I imagining things?

Nope, not imagining things.

It’s a standard grade 8 bolt that’s in the kits, and it’s a ~1/4” longer than the originals were. Then a nylock nut is supplied, and those are taller than the prevailing torque or center lock nuts that the factory used.

The other thing is, the OP is using 73+ steering arms and spindles with a factory 67-72 sway bar tab location.So that was never a factory combination. The 73+ cars had narrower sway bars with the tabs further inboard on the LCA.

The solution is the same regardless of which direction you face the bolts, you need to get a lower profile locking nut and shorten the bolt. The next size shorter is likely too short, so you’ll have to cut the excess off and clean up the threads.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Nope, not imagining things.

It’s a standard grade 8 bolt that’s in the kits, and it’s a ~1/4” longer than the originals were. Then a nylock nut is supplied, and those are taller than the prevailing torque or center lock nuts that the factory used.

The other thing is, the OP is using 73+ steering arms and spindles with a factory 67-72 sway bar tab location.So that was never a factory combination. The 73+ cars had narrower sway bars with the tabs further inboard on the LCA.

The solution is the same regardless of which direction you face the bolts, you need to get a lower profile locking nut and shorten the bolt. The next size shorter is likely too short, so you’ll have to cut the excess off and clean up the threads.

Thanks! I thought so!

 

[junkyardhero]

if you don't want to cut off the excess an grind or find a shorter nut, dr. diff has the correct fasteners. or track down some stock 73~76 units.

what swaybar tabs are those, they look crazy long? or is that just the angle?

 

[Oldmanmopar]

You need to use Top lock nuts not Ny-lock they are thinner and stronger, Then cut the bolt 1/8 past the nut.

 

[bricud]

The swaybar tabs are factory replacements from ESBO Springs n Things. They are the same size as the original. Looks like I will be getting (or making) short bolts with lower profile nuts.