steering gearbox problem

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Steve Sawczak

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I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to fix my steering gearbox issue. It started when I took my 70 Dart to a shop for some front end work. They replaced my power steering gearbox because the seals were leaking with a reman. unit. The steering was terrible after that. They replaced that one with another one, it was just as bad so I just gave up with the shop. We've tried to adjust the 3/16 nut on the unit to tighten it up, adjusted the steering column at the dash, still no help. There's ton's of play in the wheel even when the car is off before the pitman arm will begin to move. The car wandders all over the road. All other front end parts are solid.

So this past weekend some friends of mine put another gearbox on for me. Same problem. Is it possible that all these reman. gearboxes could be bad? Doesn't seem possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks! Steve
 
Steve Sawczak said:
I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to fix my steering gearbox issue. It started when I took my 70 Dart to a shop for some front end work. They replaced my power steering gearbox because the seals were leaking with a reman. unit. The steering was terrible after that. They replaced that one with another one, it was just as bad so I just gave up with the shop. We've tried to adjust the 3/16 nut on the unit to tighten it up, adjusted the steering column at the dash, still no help. There's ton's of play in the wheel even when the car is off before the pitman arm will begin to move. The car wandders all over the road. All other front end parts are solid.

So this past weekend some friends of mine put another gearbox on for me. Same problem. Is it possible that all these reman. gearboxes could be bad? Doesn't seem possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks! Steve
Click to expand...
I bought a rebuilt Cardone , it was worse than the 200000 mile box I took out. Ended up with a Firm Feel. Its great. Google rebuilt cardone steering box, wish I would have before I bought one.
 
What have you done to troubleshoot the problem? You need two people, and for some tests, the engine running.

Start at the top and work down. They may as an example, have left a piece(s) out of the coupler. have someone move the wheel back and forth through the "play" area. Look at the coupler, and at the shaft from the top to the coupler and at the coupler and the shaft into the box. These should all move in unison with NO play at all.

Now look at the pitman arm and the coupler. You'll have to run the engine for this one. There should be very little play as you change directions, as the shaft moves and the pitman move

Next move on to the pitman arm proper and the center link. There should be NO play as the two of these move, they should move exactly together, otherwise the pitman ball is worn out.

Then move to the idler and watch it. Again, no play between tracking movements of the idler arm and the center link, and it should not move up and down on the pivot

If all this checks out, it's time to move to tie rod ends and ball joints

READ THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL!!!! There is a procedure in all of them for checking out play. You can download them free at MyMopar, and some of them there came from the guys here at FABO
 
67Dart273 said:
What have you done to troubleshoot the problem? You need two people, and for some tests, the engine running.

Start at the top and work down. They may as an example, have left a piece(s) out of the coupler. have someone move the wheel back and forth through the "play" area. Look at the coupler, and at the shaft from the top to the coupler and at the coupler and the shaft into the box. These should all move in unison with NO play at all.

Now look at the pitman arm and the coupler. You'll have to run the engine for this one. There should be very little play as you change directions, as the shaft moves and the pitman move

Next move on to the pitman arm proper and the center link. There should be NO play as the two of these move, they should move exactly together, otherwise the pitman ball is worn out.

Then move to the idler and watch it. Again, no play between tracking movements of the idler arm and the center link, and it should not move up and down on the pivot

If all this checks out, it's time to move to tie rod ends and ball joints

READ THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL!!!! There is a procedure in all of them for checking out play. You can download them free at MyMopar, and some of them there came from the guys here at FABO
Click to expand...

Thanks. We did all of the above checks. The coupler and the shaft move well together but the shaft in the gearbox that it's connected to has to move quite a bit back and forth until it begins to move the pitman arm. All the other components are tight from the pitman arm on. Thanks for your information. It's nice to talk to others about this problem. I'm sure soon I'll get it solved with help from people such as yourself. Have a great day!

Steve
 
Is there some possibility it's not getting any boost from the pump? I mean does it FEEL like it has power? And you are? making that check with the engine running? (With the engine stopped, there will be substantial play, there)

If the above is true, then it surely must be a sloppy box.
 
Well that points to sector shaft play then .
This is easy to adjust, but there is a specific way to crank it together.A little loose is better than too tight,in this case.......
The Sector has to be cranked down with the rack well-centered. The rack centered, not the steering wheel.
Some guys crank the steering wheel all the way to the left, and then the right, counting the turns and splitting it in the middle.Well if your steering stops are 45 years old, they may not be in the proper place, anymore. So this is a good STARTING place. After a preliminary adjustment,I work the pitman arm a few degrees in each direction to find the tight spot, and set the lash there.
Make sure the box itself does not move at all, on it's three securing bolts.
 
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Im having the same exact problem. Took my car on its first test run after rebuild and only made it 5 driveways before i was turning around
 
I suspect the aftermarket rebuilds, Cardone, etc.., are set up to OEM specs. They probably expand the wear tolerances to make well worn used parts appear reusable.
The thing is, other stuff has changed that effect the feeling at the wheel. Tire design is the main player. OEM poly cord bias ply tires with their hard sidewalls will drive a lot different than todays radials. That's why, I'm reading between the lines, acceptable wheel play in the work bay was not acceptable in the street.
Maybe Firmfeel, Borgenson, etc... can produce a rack and pinion like feel from a conventional steering gear.
As for changes, there are changes in alignment specs/setup that will reduce the wondering ( chasing the wheel ) you experienced with your radial tires. Moog offset upper arm bushings is the most common path to those altered specs. good luck
 
RedFish said:
I suspect the aftermarket rebuilds, Cardone, etc.., are set up to OEM specs. They probably expand the wear tolerances to make well worn used parts appear reusable.
The thing is, other stuff has changed that effect the feeling at the wheel. Tire design is the main player. OEM poly cord bias ply tires with their hard sidewalls will drive a lot different than todays radials. That's why, I'm reading between the lines, acceptable wheel play in the work bay was not acceptable in the street.
Maybe Firmfeel, Borgenson, etc... can produce a rack and pinion like feel from a conventional steering gear.
As for changes, there are changes in alignment specs/setup that will reduce the wondering ( chasing the wheel ) you experienced with your radial tires. Moog offset upper arm bushings is the most common path to those altered specs. good luck
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the info. Actually the gearbox was turning a bit when we moved the wheel. Apparently someone put shims (1/2 inch) between the frame and the two bolts so the coupler would't hit the header. We removed the shims and are starting to correct the steering. I'll let you know what we come up with. It's great to have a site like this to get insight on some of these problems. It's been driving me crazy. thanks again!
 
Those 3 bolts securing the steering gear to K member have a history of problems ( working loose and breaking weld nuts from K member ). About the very last place I would alter in any way.
 
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