Still love my car but......

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gtgto

gtgto

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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Everytime I decide on fixing something thats wrong which is pretty much most of my car.....Something goes horribly wrong....I always wanted a 340 Duster and about a year ago I found one pretty cheap with a decent body and matching number engine and trans.....Its been a work in progress ever since....My latest problem is i was leaking a good amount of antifreeze so I thought I had a bad hose which they all felt soft and looked old...Ordered all new hoses,thermistat,temp sending unit. Parts came on Tuesday so me and my son headed to our garage and started removing what was being replaced. The waterneck which the upper radiator hose connects to was in poor condition and I had my son who's only 9 but very into working on the car wire brush the part and he said it still looked horrible. I'm getting to the point of this stiorry so bare with me......He brings me the part and I hold it up to the light and it is actually rusted through....where I live you don't just go to the local parts store for a new one.....Back online to find one to order, also while removing the hoses I saw that the water pump was pretty bad as well so I ordered a new one as well......So today I have nothing going on so I decide to pull the water pump so I'll be ready for assembly when the parts come. All the bolts came out fine except one that ended up breaking.....So I pulled out everything off the front of the engine.....fan,and radiator so I have clear access to the bolt. After I got the water pump off I have 2-2 1/2 inches of the bolt sticking out.....I have tried drenching it with break free and also heat and tried to back it out with vice grips but no go....My latest idea was to thread the bold and try backing it out with a couple of nuts on the end. I got the bolt threaded but don't have the right size nuts which I will be getting.

Now if that doesn't work does anyone have a any suggestions on what to try next?

I really don't wan't to take the timing cover off then while I'm in there I might as well replace the chain as well....this snowball is getting bigger by the minute...
 
Try beating on the end of the bolt with a hammer while turning the bolt. Are you using pb blaster as that to me is the better penetrating oil.
 
If you have access to a welding machine you could weld a nut on the stud, similar to double nut but will hold more torque.
Maybe try an impact gun on low setting/pressure.
 
Those long bolts suck and tend to do that....soak soak and soak it with some penetrant of some kind....maybe try what chally above post said and weld a nut on it and try to back it out, I bet a little heat will help too. Good luck, this stuff sucks by is a good learning experience...(I have been there many times)
 
I don't have access to a welding machine yet...I do have a birthday coming up though.....How much am I looking at for a decent beginner type machine? I know I own PB Blaster....Just have to find where I put it down last......I'll soak it tonight and pick up the nuts I need tomorrow and try them out....Thanks
 
I like PB blaster on o2 sensors but for rust i prefer CLP found at Walmart in the gun cleaning isle. I've used it many times on stubborn bearings at work and it really soaks into the rust.
 
Best stuff loosening bolts is atf+acetone. Strong stuff use gloves and dont get on your eyes��

Good thing to change waterpump, timing chain, thermostat and fuel pump if you dont know how old those are.

Good welder like kemppi or walluis cost about 1000$ with argon/co2 bottle and good auto welding helmet.
0.8 mm wire is good for welding cars, can weld about 1-6mm thick steel.
 
If the welder it's and Lincoln or Miller, you're pissing away your money.
 
Additional suggestion... Add the 'back and forth' approach. Tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen.....
 
A combination of four things I see here are the only things I have ever needed to get bolts like that out.
There are a lot of good suggestions but the soaking it with penetrant then get the vise grips on it nice and tight then repeated firm tapping with the hammer while trying to turn it back and forth.

This has pretty much always got them out.
 
I feel your pain. Went to do a simple cam and lifter swap and almost all my bolt holes are stripped in my heads for the intake. So I now need to pull the heads.
 
The timing cover is almost going to have to come off. That bolt basically goes through an aluminum tube. The bolt is ferrous. The timing cover is aluminum. Over time the two corrode together. You have however thick the timing cover is of corroded bolt. It ain't gonna budge until you get that cover off. Then when you get it off, you need to get as close to the block as possible with a pipe wrench that has GOOD teeth on it, AFTER you have drenched the bolt where it goes into the block with PBlaster.

Oh and the timing cover "MIGHT NOT" live. Lots of times it takes cracking the timing cover along that tube where the bolt goes through to get it off, so be prepared to find another cover.

Once you finally get THAT mess apart, remember to coat the long bolts that go through the cover with high temp RTV not only on the threads, but also on the bolt shafts. "I" would also coat every single bolt that screws into that timing cover with RTV as well. That way, they will ALL come BACK OUT the next time it has to come apart.

Ever think about a recam or timing chain replacement.......or playing around with cam timing? NOW'S the time.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Once you finally get THAT mess apart, remember to coat the long bolts that go through the cover with high temp RTV not only on the threads, but also on the bolt shafts.
Click to expand...

Any specific reason to go with RTV over a typical anti-seize? Temperature range? This is pretty neat advice, I'll be using it with my rebuild. Thanks!
 
DNasty777 said:
Any specific reason to go with RTV over a typical anti-seize? Temperature range? This is pretty neat advice, I'll be using it with my rebuild. Thanks!
Click to expand...

RTV IMO has a few advantages. First, anti seize "only" has a range of about 450 degrees. Certainly shouldn't be a problem on the engine, BUT, RTV far exceeds that at 2K degrees. Secondly, RTV IS basically anti seize. Since it will prevent rust and corrosion, it keeps the bolts from seizing up. Lastly of course comes its fantastic sealing abilities. I have recommended it many times before and have been violently disagreed with. The complaints were something about it being messy to clean up. Sounds like a pansy excuse to me. The stuff works. That's all I can say.
 
RustyRatRod said:
RTV IMO has a few advantages. First, anti seize "only" has a range of about 450 degrees. Certainly shouldn't be a problem on the engine, BUT, RTV far exceeds that at 2K degrees. Secondly, RTV IS basically anti seize. Since it will prevent rust and corrosion, it keeps the bolts from seizing up. Lastly of course comes its fantastic sealing abilities. I have recommended it many times before and have been violently disagreed with. The complaints were something about it being messy to clean up. Sounds like a pansy excuse to me. The stuff works. That's all I can say.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks! It does seem like a weak excuse. I've had galvanic corrosion on other vehicles before, the parts may as well have been welded together. Chasing the threads with a tap seems like a pretty good trade off to me.
 
Yeah, it only takes a few seconds to do that and then blow them out with compressed air. Oh, so much work. lol
 
I had the same problem when removing my timing cover
I ended up drilling the entire length of the bolt out (what, 2 inches?) before I could remove the timing cover
then something funny happened, with the timing cover of the remains of the bolt could be grabbed with a pair of pliers and just "unscrewed"

it was clearly not stuck in the block, but corroded to the timing cover
 
You can heat the bolt up with a torch, and put paraphan wax on it. The wax finds its way into the threads, and then give it a smack with heavy hammer. I watched a machine shop do this for me on a stubborn fitting in a manifold. Was amazed at how easy it came out.


I also would not recommend using rtv on any bolts in a motor.
Not going to go into why, but a simple google search will set you straight.
Use a thread sealant (Permatex, ARP) which is made for this application.
 
build a trough around the bolt with putty and fill with penetrating fluid. let soak for 24 hrs. then hit the bolt with big hammer while trying to turn in any direction. Always works for me.
 
A little work now, like chasing threads, then cleaning them out, using RTV and cleaning up the mess afterwards can save you a whole bunch of time and aggravation in the long run. This unfortunate situation with this thread is an example of that. The old saying, 'pay now or pay later', applies here.
 
gtgto said:
Everytime I decide on fixing something....this snowball is getting bigger by the minute...
Click to expand...

Most of this is in your head. You simply have to resolve to repair it. "Back in the day" I paid a machine shop to hot tank and "do" a set of heads for a 440, went into my 64 Dodge. The heads came back "done" and painted. Put it together and in the car. About a month later the core plug on the REAR of the pass head leaked. On that car the head is very very close to the firewall. Had to pull the engine up to access the plug. The machine shop had NOT removed or replaced the head plugs.

"Stuff happens." Now, you are not dealing with a car a 'few years old,' you are dealing with one that is 40-50 years old
 
RustyRatRod said:
RTV IMO has a few advantages. First, anti seize "only" has a range of about 450 degrees. Certainly shouldn't be a problem on the engine, BUT, RTV far exceeds that at 2K degrees. Secondly, RTV IS basically anti seize. Since it will prevent rust and corrosion, it keeps the bolts from seizing up. Lastly of course comes its fantastic sealing abilities. I have recommended it many times before and have been violently disagreed with. The complaints were something about it being messy to clean up. Sounds like a pansy excuse to me. The stuff works. That's all I can say.
Click to expand...

FINALLY, an RTV Bro. :D
Every time I see something RTV works really well on someone poo poo's it.
Used correctly the stuff would handle just about any sealing job needed.
I gave up telling people how to use it for those stupid leaking water necks we see on here all the time.
 
TrailBeast said:
FINALLY, an RTV Bro. :D
Every time I see something RTV works really well on someone poo poo's it.
Used correctly the stuff would handle just about any sealing job needed.
I gave up telling people how to use it for those stupid leaking water necks we see on here all the time.
Click to expand...

When I use something consistently for 30 plus years and it WORKS, I recommend it. lol
 
Pull the timing cover so you can get to the rest of the bolt and then stuff the front of the oil pan with rags to cvatch debris. I personally like the heat and "back and forth" myself - usually with a good set of vide grips... You can also try the heat, the spray the bolt with the freezing stuff. If it still won' come out cut it and drilling it, then tap the hole for an easy out. If you're really at your wit's end - you're only about an hour from me. I can come help. It's really not this hard.
 
I always use aero kroil penetrating oil on stubborn bolts.
You have to be patient with it, spray it down for several days, the bolt should come out.
You can buy the stuff at NAPA it is in an orange can.
 
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