Stock 360 Upgrades for Crusher Cuda?

[CrusherCuda]

frankly( and the last thing i am wanting to do is preach to you) stay away from a drag strip if a shift kit is something you cant afford.
You take your car to a race track, VERY good chance you are gonna hurt something...and it will cost way more than a shift kit would.
You may not want to hear that, but its probably the best advice i have given anybody. Been there myself, and done that

Ok, it's not the cost of the shift kit. I'm an engine and body guy. Auto transmissions are out of my comfort zone right now. If I start tearing into every part of the car to upgrade it, this project will turn into a $30,000 pile of parts like my 31' Ford is. I stopped working on the Ford because I found a beat down Mopar and a junkyard 360/727. All I want is a "cheap" win. All of my driveable cars and trucks are sixes. I really want a down and dirty v8 that I can take down a track and not care if I win. My Ford Ranger with a 2.9L runs "unofficially" in the 16's. So my track goal is 14 to 12.90 in the Cuda. Once I establish the project and have a foundation I can build on, I can upgrade from there. Broken parts are part of racing. I understand that. The strict budget is only so the car gets built quick. Expensive cars take years too build. I have only months to make this happen. I don't know if I can do it, but I sure am going to try.

 

[rumblefish360]

I want one of those someday.

 

[CrusherCuda]

I thought I could build the whole car for 3K. Ha... That didn't happen.. So, then I said 5k. Ha... I'm 6k into parts collecting in two weeks. The car initially was $600. As my wife says.. It's a Dan project... Still need the engine upgrades including carb, rear rims, all four tires, radiator, driveshaft, and other small bits. All of the Mopar parts have been found. Hoping to be under 9k all in. Not the cheap win I wanted, but can't turn back now.

 

[yellow rose]

I thought I could build the whole car for 3K. Ha... That didn't happen.. So, then I said 5k. Ha... I'm 6k into parts collecting in two weeks. The car initially was $600. As my wife says.. It's a Dan project... Still need the engine upgrades including carb, rear rims, all four tires, radiator, driveshaft, and other small bits. All of the Mopar parts have been found. Hoping to be under 9k all in. Not the cheap win I wanted, but can't turn back now.

LOL...mission creep. Always happens. I got a guy who is sniveling because I expect him to buy a $750.00 dollar set of headers. He should be lucky to get them. He doesn’t understand cost verses value.

 

[CrusherCuda]

Which do you want, 14 flat or 12.9 ?? For a 14 flat, pretty much a stock 360 that's "up to snuff" (meaning the heads are good and the rings are sealing) with a 4bbl and headers will run you around 14 flat with the 3.91's. For 12.9's, I would add a cam of size around .450-.474 lift, and 216-224 duration @ 050 and some work to the heads (bowl work, maybe cut .040 for a little added compression). In both cases I'd run a 750 DP.

Ok, Comp Cams Extreme Energy .218/.224 @.050, .462/.470, 1,300 - 5,600 rpm. This is what I'm looking at. Is Comp still a good brand, or are they having any quality issues. I'm looking at the whole cam kit. (cam, springs, retainers, chain, etc.) I'm all ears. If no objections I will order this evening. 400 bucks. Thanks for the input.

 

[CrusherCuda]

Ok, Comp Cams Extreme Energy .218/.224 @.050, .462/.470, 1,300 - 5,600 rpm. This is what I'm looking at. Is Comp still a good brand, or are they having any quality issues. I'm looking at the whole cam kit. (cam, springs, retainers, chain, etc.) I'm all ears. If no objections I will order this evening. Thanks for the input.

I checked out Edelbrock, which I have used in my Fords, but they don't have anything out of the box or in a complete kit.

 

[CrusherCuda]

Ok, Comp Cams Extreme Energy .218/.224 @.050, .462/.470, 1,300 - 5,600 rpm. This is what I'm looking at. Is Comp still a good brand, or are they having any quality issues. I'm looking at the whole cam kit. (cam, springs, retainers, chain, etc.) I'm all ears. If no objections I will order this evening. 400 bucks. Thanks for the input.

I also have no objection to ordering a custom camshaft if it's going to be better in some way than the Comp Cams cam. Like Howards. Biggest concern is the lifters destroying themselves. I've heard there are alot of bad lifters out there. Lifter suggestions are welcome.

 

[dartfreak75]

Here is my 360 build lots of good info in this thread if you have time to look it over I built a fairly mild to moderate stockish 360. Its got kb 107s a luniti voodoo 702 cam stock heads stock valves stock 4bbl intake manifolds etc. It runs pretty good. No time slips yet but I think it will do 14s lol
My 360 build

 

[12many]

Ok, Comp Cams Extreme Energy .218/.224 @.050, .462/.470, 1,300 - 5,600 rpm. This is what I'm looking at. Is Comp still a good brand, or are they having any quality issues. I'm looking at the whole cam kit. (cam, springs, retainers, chain, etc.) I'm all ears. If no objections I will order this evening. 400 bucks. Thanks for the input.

In previous posts mention is made of running a single plane intake, perhaps a 750 carb, stock converter ?, no shift kit, headers or maybe stock exhaust manifolds, but really nothing definitive. So now that you are looking at cams, what have you decided on regarding all the above mentioned parts. Forget about single planes, stock exhaust manifolds or stock converters. Get an Edelbrock AG, or find an old Weiand Action + (or other well regarded vintage DP if money allows) get a Turbo Action 10” 3500 tight converter, add a Transgo TF2 shift kit, and get the best headers you can afford. Then you can work on getting the thing to hook at the strip and easily lay down the times you’re seeking.

 

[CrusherCuda]

Looking at the Edelbrock RPM Air Gap dual plane intake manifold. Or the Edelbrock Victor 2915 single plane. Which one will give me the torque of the line and high end rpm. Suggestions?

 

[CrusherCuda]

In previous posts mention is made of running a single plane intake, perhaps a 750 carb, stock converter ?, no shift kit, headers or maybe stock exhaust manifolds, but really nothing definitive. So now that you are looking at cams, what have you decided on regarding all the above mentioned parts. Forget about single planes, stock exhaust manifolds or stock converters. Get an Edelbrock AG, or find an old Weiand Action + (or other well regarded vintage DP if money allows) get a Turbo Action 10” 3500 tight converter, add a Transgo TF2 shift kit, and get the best headers you can afford. Then you can work on getting the thing to hook at the strip and easily lay down the times you’re seeking.

Parts seem to be very hard to find right now. I agree it needs a shift kit, but I am not going to open the trans yet. Maybe next year. Just trying to get a base line this year, and upgrade in the future. So the trans will remain stock for know. Just getting the foundation laid. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[12many]

I’d swing for the actual Edelbrock AG, don’t even think of cheaping out on a crosswind, speedmaster or (whatever they’re called) knockoffs. Bottom line: “in your planned setup” the AG will smoke any single plane and you’ll cross the stripe well before a single plane gets things going.

 

[CrusherCuda]

In previous posts mention is made of running a single plane intake, perhaps a 750 carb, stock converter ?, no shift kit, headers or maybe stock exhaust manifolds, but really nothing definitive. So now that you are looking at cams, what have you decided on regarding all the above mentioned parts. Forget about single planes, stock exhaust manifolds or stock converters. Get an Edelbrock AG, or find an old Weiand Action + (or other well regarded vintage DP if money allows) get a Turbo Action 10” 3500 tight converter, add a Transgo TF2 shift kit, and get the best headers you can afford. Then you can work on getting the thing to hook at the strip and easily lay down the times you’re seeking.

This is where I am at right now.. Comp Cams .218/.224@50 .462/4.70, TTI headers, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, Holley 750. Stock block, mild ported stock heads, stock rockers, stock pushrods, stock trans, stock converter, stock electronic ignition. Let's see what she does. I feel the cam will be handicapped by the heads, so heads can be upgraded later. The Holley 750 has room to grow. Converters and shift kits can be easily added later. After all of the other forums I've read, and the suggestions given, this seems to be the safe bet with room to grow. I am still open to suggestions.

 

[12many]

Looks good to me. Keeping in mind Everybody has their financial constraints....but if it were me? I’d get the converter now, hold off on headers. Good headers would be about the same $$$ as a good converter. The motor will be out, you’ll be looking at that lowly stock converter hanging there in the engine bay! Headers can be added later easily. What’s the performance gain of a good matched performance converter vs. headers? Converter all the way in this case.

 

[CrusherCuda]

Looks good to me. Keeping in mind Everybody has their financial constraints....but if it were me? I’d get the converter now, hold off on headers. Good headers would be about the same $$$ as a good converter. The motor will be out, you’ll be looking at that lowly stock converter hanging there in the engine bay! Headers can be added later easily. What’s the performance gain of a good matched performance converter vs. headers? Converter all the way in this case.

I get what your saying about the converter. The next step up cam suggested a 2000 stall converter. Lift was still under .500. The main reason for headers now, is I can make one exhaust system and stick with it. I may opt for a manual valve body instead of the shift kit, and that may change the converter of choice as well. That's why I wanted to deal with the trans later. To be honest. I have no idea if this trans will even shift. Ran when wrecked 2 years ago. If the trans needs rebuilt, then we have lots of options. Maybe even a 904 bullet proofed. We will have to see.

 

[rumblefish360]

Gotta agree with the converter. However! I don’t think you need one with that size cam. The stock converter will be fine for street driving. If your plan is the strip, then a converter would be very helpful.

I myself have used the Crane variant of that cam. I used the entire kit from Crane. Cam, springs, etc… In a low compression (7.9-1) 318. The first run (literally!) directly off the Hwy. onto the staging lane I ran a 15.14, I forget the mph.

‘74 Duster, ‘79-318 dead stock with the cam and the following bolt on parts. Open air cleaner on a 600 cfm carb, LD4B Edelbrock, Hooker 1-5/8 headers into a Jegs header to bumper dual exhaust kit. Dead stock converter and 904 trans, 3.21 suregrip equipped rear end on stock size tires. Foot brakes it at various rpm’s. Tire spin was to easy with street radials.

The things that would have put my Duster into the 14’s off the bat are simple and a short list. .14 is not a lot.
(Sometimes! LOL!)

A modified distributor curve. I had a junk yard distributor simply slammed in there. The only thing I know about it was it came off of a truck. So you know the curve was slow.

Stickier & wider tires to stop spinning @ the line.
Stock sized radials don’t stand a chance.

3.55’s would do the trick. Though I forget the finish line rpm, I still remember I had a lot of usable rpm left over at the stripe.

A shift kit would have been something nice to add. The 904 was a slow shifter. Not horrible for stock, but stock none the less. I also wanted to add an H pipe in the exhaust. I never got there.

I would like to add the engine was missing a decent dose of compression. At 7.9-1, this engine could run fine on “Joe Cheapo’s Gas stations Yak piss.”

So there ya have it. If you want to get more solidly into the 14’s, like a low 14, a cam change would do it. A
About another 8*’s with a proper converter.

 

[rumblefish360]

Oh, switch to a 904 now if you can. If not possible, no worries.
Do NOT use a single plane intake!
DO USE the Edelbrock RPM. Also use the heat insulated gasket under the carb. More so important for the Edelbrock style carb.
To keep everything under the hood, you’ll need a drop base air cleaner. Order a filter that gives the most clearance over the crab and not interfere with the hood. Clay is good to use.

I like the FBO ignition. A stock distributor will do great if recurved to suite. (4secondsflat.com, you can get an entire system there in one shot.)
Do! Install a windage tray.
Thank f you can weld in hour own oil pan baffle, do so.
Main studs are not needed. Re use or purchase new bolts, you’ll be good there.

 

[CrusherCuda]

So, the cam set, headers, cheap radiator, intake, and B&M mega shifter will put me at $8,040 all into this project. Way over budget. The roof is 9k. Then she won't get done this year. I already spent too much. I have 960 bucks to get a carb, tires, drive shaft, belt, and hoses. I'm gona have to sell something. LOL. Any body need a 54' Ford F250 project w/ 460/C6. Wrong crowd I think. Oh my.......

 

[Wvbuzzmaster]

I sympathize with wanting the “cheap win Mopar”. I too tried a similar theory wanting a good running and driving non race duty, putt around town Mopar. Of course I wanted it to feel like it could run a 12 second quarter mile if I wanted to try some day. Bought a 1972 Duster that ran and drove with rebuilt 340/727, and 8-3/4. Figured I could be good to go around 15 grand all in... that goal was passed several grand ago when I figured out the rear axle was toast, the top end of the engine was built poorly, and that I seriously underestimated the interior’s true condition after a dash fire... once I missed the goal I reverted back to my mantra, if I am going to miss my budget goal I might as well go all in with what I want it to be and make it better than I envisioned it would be.

My 340 is 10:1 compression running X heads, and a 284/484 purple cam. Installed new hydraulic lifters, pushrods, Harland Sharp rockers, LD340 intake 750 eddy carb, TTI shorty headers, full 2.5” TTI exhaust. Trans is completely stock including TC. Rear gear is 3.91 Sure Grip. Suspension is all new including power disc brakes and 1.03 torsion bars. My main goal was putt around WV roads so my goal was to build a car that could turn, I think lol. I have driven vehicles on these roads before and I have missed out on making turns before... RIP to those cars.

My best estimate of power with my setup is 375 hp... just enough for what I want. Total weight is full interior full steel Duster, no weight reduction diet.

Mopars are fun, but to do it right one must be ready to shell out. And quick win is that I am going to have all these good parts on a body that isn’t perfect, but that is what I want... a car I don’t care about a scuff. Heck, I nicked the fender With a saws all blade and was mad about my clumsiness, most can’t tell which scratch is new LOL. Well, I am out for now, have to go to the garage and see if I can get the front suspension back on the car this weekend... good luck on your build.

 

[318willrun]

Ok, Comp Cams Extreme Energy .218/.224 @.050, .462/.470, 1,300 - 5,600 rpm. This is what I'm looking at. Is Comp still a good brand, or are they having any quality issues. I'm looking at the whole cam kit. (cam, springs, retainers, chain, etc.) I'm all ears. If no objections I will order this evening. 400 bucks. Thanks for the input.

that cam should work well for your goals

 

[rumblefish360]

MoPar’s expensive? Just a bit more than F or C brands but a lot cheaper than some others. Ever try and build a Buick for cheap? LMAOROTF!!!! It happenin!

Research!!!! Make a plan & stick to it. If a used part is in good shape, intake, carb known for be good, headers, etc… save some bucks and get it.

I’m not a fan of used cams for the most part.
Everything else is possible to own.

 

[CrusherCuda]

MoPar’s expensive? Just a bit more than F or C brands but a lot cheaper than some others. Ever try and build a Buick for cheap? LMAOROTF!!!! It happenin!

Research!!!! Make a plan & stick to it. If a used part is in good shape, intake, carb known for be good, headers, etc… save some bucks and get it.

I’m not a fan of used cams for the most part.
Everything else is possible to own.

I think my biggest fault, is I don't come from a family that raced, off-roaded, or hot rodded. So, I don't have the friends and family to source knowledge and parts. Swapmeets are great, but not many of those around here. We have a couple tho. And I have 8 active/semi-active projects. I put all other projects on hold to do this one Mopar. I can't just have one.. I have a bucket list, and so far I have everything but a big block and a convertible. I do have a 428 PI Cobra motor, but no car yet to put it in. Maybe a convertible? Off topic... Anyways, I seem to pay out the nose for everything. It's either rare or new. Can't find what I want used. Nothing is cheap. But, I will get this Mopar back on the road hell or high water. I'm in to win it.

 

[fishmens67]

all good advise above for engine and drivetrain upgrades.
But I have a question, have the brakes and chassis been gone through ?
When I was younger, brakes and chassis were never part of my equation.
Hence there were some scary times with part failures in those areas.
losing a wheel cylinder at a buck ten in the shutdown area was a little sketchy.
one of many mishaps on the track and street. I'll spare the rest.

 

[318willrun]

all good advise above for engine and drivetrain upgrades.
But I have a question, have the brakes and chassis been gone through ?
When I was younger, brakes and chassis were never part of my equation.
Hence there were some scary times with part failures in those areas.
losing a wheel cylinder at a buck ten in the shutdown area was a little sketchy.
one of many mishaps on the track and street. I'll spare the rest.

Way i see it, you only need brakes now and then........





Good advice !

 

[fishmens67]

Way i see it, you only need brakes now and then........





Good advice !

I've been around the block and in the ditch. lol
Too many times we put something fast together only to have a dangerous combination on the street.