Stock Intake with Clifford Headers

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Fishercuda

Fishercuda

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I just recently purchased a set of clifford shorty headers for my slant and realized that once bolted up, the original choke/throttle spring linkage wont be able to be mounted.

It's an otherwise stock 225. Holley single barrel carb. Cast Iron Intake. As I'm sure many of you know, the original location for the choke/throttle spring linkage is above the #4 exhaust runner.

What have you guys/ladies done to solve this problem and is there anything else I should know about running the stock intake with the headers?

Any help is incredibly appreciated!
 
Yo can go manual choke,or remove the choke.
Just takes a couple minutes longer to warm up without the choke.
If you must have a choke,just get a manual choke kit,and your good to go.

With the new free flowing exhaust,you will find that you can go up 2 jet sizes on the 1920 Holley. Set your total timing between 28-30deg,and you should have a fun little runner.
 
Thanks for the help. Will the manual or automatic choke solve the throttle spring problem too? Without the spring, there wont be any tension on the throttle to close it when I take my foot off the pedal.
 
Fishercuda said:
Thanks for the help. Will the manual or automatic choke solve the throttle spring problem too? Without the spring, there wont be any tension on the throttle to close it when I take my foot off the pedal.
Click to expand...

Does anyone have an answer for this? I'd really appreciate it. I've done a number of searches but haven't found anything.

I suppose I could mount the arm and spring on the cylinder head near the original location but if there's a better solution out there, I'd love to know.

I also came across an article where slantsixdan mentioned the needed use of a manifold water heater to help the vaporization process of the fuel as it runs down the manifold. I found a kit made by Raso online and if it's a necessity I'll order it. Though I'm curious if the headers would produce enough excess heat to warm the manifold alone.
 
You only need the heat in cold weather 40* or colder. That's if you plan on driving it in the winter. I ran mine 12 months out of the year.Clifford headers and intake with no heater. Yes we see low 30's even in the 20's in southern Nevada.Look on the head by the valve cover you will find a raised pad with a threaded boss.You can install a throttle return bracket there with a spring to your carb. I did it on my 63 Valiant.
I ran a 195* thermostat.
 
Thanks Darter6! According to ups the headers will be here tomorrow so your response could not have come at a better time!
 
Some headers had a little heater pipe and stove that bolted up to the intake. Maybe muffler shop could tack you up a little branch off a close runner and route it up to a block off plate stove? With the exhaust that closed to the runners I bet they warm up in no time.
 
Yes,the headers will heat up the bottom of the intake/carb.
The problem is,it will continue to heat up.Add hot summer temps,and
you can run into carb/fuel percolation issues.
That's where a water heated/cooled intake comes into play.
First it heats the intake/carb for better fuel atomization.
Then it keeps it at engine coolant temp.
Best of both worlds.
 
Johnny Dart said:
Yes,the headers will heat up the bottom of the intake/carb.
The problem is,it will continue to heat up.Add hot summer temps,and
you can run into carb/fuel percolation issues.
That's where a water heated/cooled intake comes into play.
First it heats the intake/carb for better fuel atomization.
Then it keeps it at engine coolant temp.
Best of both worlds.
Click to expand...

Jegs sells a exhaust wrap. Wrapping parts of the header to control the excess heat it gives off should solve that problem right? Though I suppose the more proper setup would be using the water heater/cooler that Raso sells.

This is the link, http://autoparts.rasoenterprises.com/product_info.php?products_id=32 that should do the trick right?
 
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