Stock Stroke Versus Stroker Combo !

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moper said:
Actually the Eagle cast were bad for big horsepower. Scat cast were the ones Mopar badged and sold as there own, and I know of serval surpassing 600hp NA, with nitrous on top of that and they've lived just fine. But - cast cranks need Mallory to internally balance and that's what you want. The difference between good cast crank cost and the forged cranks is probably less than $200 when you include the cost of the Mallory.
The difference between 3.31" stroke and 500hp and 4" 500hp is only the rom and the matching torque curve. The 340 will be nasty - rough idle, high rpm, needing gear and convertor... The 416 will do it with a moderate idle and run as fast with 3.23s as that 340 with 4.30s. Money wise the 4" is 30-40% more cash outlay. Sonic test the block.
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I like your Analogy of the 340
Hopefully might will be the same except Im running a Jerico with 2x4 set up thanks for info.
 
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I jumped into
molnar forged 4" stroke
Molnar rods
And icon forged pistons in my 418 (340 base)
I started with w2 heads with a personal guess of 400 hp. The torque is what got me addicted. When you launch and it sucks your throat down and out of your rectum you will smile.
I recently made a jump to indy 360-1 ported and polished.
Running around an estimated 600 hp.
I have not been to the track or a dyno but the stroker loves to rev quick!

The 340 was fun when it ran but now that I went stroker and i am addicted to torque. The horsepower number is meaningless to me

Spend the extra coin in the bottom end for potential upgrades later.
 
Mopar Sam said:
Which class are you wanting to run in? How much does the Henry J weigh , don't you have to add weight to run more inches? What gears are you running? Are you going to have the heads ported? The stock stroke combo may be better in a weight to cubic inches class, especially with limited heads. The Southeast Gassers are going to be in my neck of the woods this weekend. They were here last year too. The bleachers were full and it was standing room only the full eighth mile! I am sure it will be even more crowded this year. They definitely need more mopars! How about some pictures of the Henry J ?
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1Badcolt said:
Heads are getting worked in Warner Robbins GA , im spending more money porting the heads and a TR5 tunnel ram and a TM5 than the heads cost new .
I figured I would have both intakes done so If I want to experiment with set ups I will have two vintage intakes to try out.
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pittsburghracer said:
Looks like Summit is cheaper and then find a 10% off coupon floating around. I've been seeing lots of them floating around lately.
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I have a summit in my area
South Atlanta so state of GA hits me with sales tax so I normally call Jegs and they match price minus sales tax !!!
Only an issue with expensive items though
 
moper said:
Actually the Eagle cast were bad for big horsepower. Scat cast were the ones Mopar badged and sold as there own, and I know of serval surpassing 600hp NA, with nitrous on top of that and they've lived just fine. But - cast cranks need Mallory to internally balance and that's what you want. The difference between good cast crank cost and the forged cranks is probably less than $200 when you include the cost of the Mallory.
The difference between 3.31" stroke and 500hp and 4" 500hp is only the rom and the matching torque curve. The 340 will be nasty - rough idle, high rpm, needing gear and convertor... The 416 will do it with a moderate idle and run as fast with 3.23s as that 340 with 4.30s. Money wise the 4" is 30-40% more cash outlay. Sonic test the block.
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456 gears 9" ford rearend
Jerico 4 speed .

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dodgedifferent2 said:
I jumped into
molnar forged 4" stroke
Molnar rods
And icon forged pistons in my 418 (340 base)
I started with w2 heads with a personal guess of 400 hp. The torque is what got me addicted. When you launch and it sucks your throat down and out of your rectum you will smile.
I recently made a jump to indy 360-1 ported and polished.
Running around an estimated 600 hp.
I have not been to the track or a dyno but the stroker loves to rev quick!

The 340 was fun when it ran but now that I went stroker and i am addicted to torque. The horsepower number is meaningless to me

Spend the extra coin in the bottom end for potential upgrades later.
Click to expand...
Good to hear, as I am at the tail-end of a similar build. Would love to know more details about your combo. Can't wait to get mined fired up. I only have J heads for now (mild porting, 2.02 intake), but a great bottom end.
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MobileCustoms said:
Good to hear, as I am at the tail-end of a similar build. Would love to know more details about your combo. Can't wait to get mined fired up. I only have J heads for now (mild porting, 2.02 intake), but a great bottom end.
View attachment 1715202772
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Good looking engine Hemi orange oh yea .
I cant wait to get mine together
Cambell Performance is ordering me custom pistons tomorrow and it will take up to 4 weeks for delivery
$1000 with shipping but they are lite weight Ross and they should last me for many years .
I wanted about 11.6.1 compression using my 65 cc 340 Rpm heads without cutting them down so custom slugs are a must .
I was surprised at the lack of pistons available for the stock stroke 340
I guess the trend is more for CI today so most folks stroke um .
 
B3422w5 said:
Having broken a cast 4 inch crank running 10.40’s at 3300 ish pounds and driven over it, i would never recommend a cast stroker crank for anything that sees dragstrip use making 500+ horsepower. That crank had neverr seen a tbrake launch( Eagle)
For just a few hundred bucks difference you can sleep WAY better at night. And in the whole scheme of building a motor the price difference between the two cranks is negligable.
Do it once, do it right. Strongly urge going forged
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I have run a scat cast crank at a hp level of 425 at the rear wheel for over 700 passes and 55,000 hard street miles before pulling it apart to change pistons. Car weighed 3600 lbs, No slicks or t brake. Was checked for straightness and was spot on. Eagle cast cranks had issues. That being said $869 forged or $381 for cast tough call. I haven’t heard of a scat cast crank breaking. But going back and reading your intended use I would go forged.
 
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Do some math before you decide, figure out how much the car needs to weigh at 340 cubes, verses 416 cubes. The smaller engine can make JUST AS much power as the larger one, it will just take more RPM to do it....and carry less weight... food for thought
 
It was not cheap to internal balance my Scat cast crank. Not too worried about breaking it, but I would just go forged if I did it again.
 
KnuckleDuster said:
It was not cheap to internal balance my Scat cast crank. Not too worried about breaking it, but I would just go forged if I did it again.
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This is of interest to me since I am compiling parts right now.

From my research there are 3 choices for balance. You can buy a complete rotating assembling from Scat that is balanced. "BI" is added to the part number. Speaking with them, that means they are about +/- 5 grams in balance of an entire rotating assembly. This is more then likely way better than factory balanced. This usually adds about $200 to the cost.

Second choice is to have your local machine shop balance and skip the Scat balance. In my area with a machine shop I trust their goal is balance to < 1 gram and have balanced Scat stuff in the past and they estimated $250.

Or you can do both for about $450....
 
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Why all the hate for externally balanced engines. Here’s an external balanced 360 that seems to do ok running low 10’s at 3200 pounds.

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Mine is externally balance. No issues. The only thing that concerns me is if I need to change the dampner, but it may not make much difference.
 
furrystump said:
Mine is externally balance. No issues. The only thing that concerns me is if I need to change the dampner, but it may not make much difference.
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We changed ours after the junk summit brand one spun. No big deal and we have a Powerbond brand on now
 
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