Stop in for a cup of coffee

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They found the leak

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Water lines here are 6 to 8 feet deep. Yet the main feed from my pumphouse, under driveway is maybe 2 feet. Flat on bedrock. Insulation on top.
Looks like we have 4-6' of topsoil and then clay. Tough digging by hand when it's wet.

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We back filled the conduit trenches with red dyed 5 sack concrete at VAFB :rofl:. Sometimes there was 30-40 4" conduits in the trench, sometimes 1 2" :rofl: That was what the specs called for :rofl:
 
Looks like we have 4-6' of topsoil and then clay. Tough digging by hand when it's wet.

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2 leaks, replace the curb stop (shut off) and repair the sewer line that got bumped with the back hoe. Hard to tell whether you are digging a rock or clay tile. Oops. Get her fixed fellas.
 
58 minutes later..filler piece is done and ready to weld in. I have determined its not structural at all. Just didnt want it to crack and squeak.
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Second brace back in, and floor cleaned. Put seats back in and im liking the ability to shoulder check through the little window. Will make backing up way easier.
 
Looks nite and day better
I think I may have found a fraction of the cause of my Mount Everest welds. The regulator wouldn’t adjust up or down, went and got a new regulator and that helped ten fold. I think tinkering with it should help. I also looked online and found that while the chart on the machine itself specifically states voltage at A, wire speed 2 for 18 gauge, Lincoln’s online guide says B and 4 for it. That really helped. Welds aren’t as tall, Still a bit higher than I’d like but much better too.
 
I think I may have found a fraction of the cause of my Mount Everest welds. The regulator wouldn’t adjust up or down, went and got a new regulator and that helped ten fold. I think tinkering with it should help. I also looked online and found that while the chart on the machine itself specifically states voltage at A, wire speed 2 for 18 gauge, Lincoln’s online guide says B and 4 for it. That really helped. Welds aren’t as tall, Still a bit higher than I’d like but much better too.
Regulator at 25 cfh is typical.
So you set voltage higher and it improved,now back off wire feed a little at a time, both hands to keep stinger steady and dont let wire stick out too much.

big problem with mine is it is unstable when i first start weld. It ramps up a little so i need to start on the last weld i tacked.

i need good lighting as well, makes a big difference.
 
Regulator at 25 cfh is typical.
So you set voltage higher and it improved,now back off wire feed a little at a time, both hands to keep stinger steady and dont let wire stick out too much.

big problem with mine is it is unstable when i first start weld. It ramps up a little so i need to start on the last weld i tacked.

i need good lighting as well, makes a big difference.
Lighting sucks inside the car. So I’m gonna try and figure something out there.
 
I think I may have found a fraction of the cause of my Mount Everest welds. The regulator wouldn’t adjust up or down, went and got a new regulator and that helped ten fold. I think tinkering with it should help. I also looked online and found that while the chart on the machine itself specifically states voltage at A, wire speed 2 for 18 gauge, Lincoln’s online guide says B and 4 for it. That really helped. Welds aren’t as tall, Still a bit higher than I’d like but much better too.


Keep practicing and you'll get it...
 
so heres the question. Do i blend this tunnel into the factory tunnel at the rear foot wells or do i carry it all the way back and get rid of the factory tunnel entirely?
 
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