OK we beat that up. Guess you got the master in position now Scott?
Stop in for a cup of coffee
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I ran Centerlines out front in brushed aluminum and brushed Slots for a while with black steelies about back for a while. I really like the look.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
yeah... i have owned the house for 23 years now...i would have paid it off 10 years ago except i got into a bad mortgage with BOA...... 10 years of payments for nothing. Live and learn.. I will pay it off in june.. then i will be able to save 2-4k a month i have been hammering into it.
When I restore a car with all new braking system, I always use Dot 5, simply for the reason, it doesn't corrode the paint and its pretty much care free. I had Dot 5 in my 1960 Corvette for 35 years with never an issue.....
It will be. It was modified now so it will work better when mounted. Also, I should not have to cut the rod off in the future................
I was hoping Sean used 5, but not the case................
Icetech
Well-Known Member
Have had my '68 rusty rims i bought put in my evaporust mixture for a couple of days.. things almost look like new.. i love this stuff 
I need to rotate them tonight, only half fits at a time
I need to rotate them tonight, only half fits at a time
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Seems like the site is running a little slow this morning.................
Icetech
Well-Known Member
It's been happening on and off for the last couple of weeks.... there is something wrong with joeys server..
the Chinese hacked it!
FISHYPETE
Well-Known Member
Y……………..U……………………….P……………………………………………P
Next question, still dicking around with the front driver side possible wheel cylinder leak. I need to take it apart today to investigate. I saw on Youtube removing a rear wheel cylinder without removing the shoes, by relaxing the adjuster all the way out to provide room to get the cylinder out. Can this also be done on the front brakes?
Probably.....Should need to remove the upper retention springs as well....
Icetech
Well-Known Member
yes.. after you take out the 2 big springs at the top you can pretty much just pull them apart.. you don't need to relax the adjuster, can just spread the bottom first and take it out.. then the top will spread plenty. If you have a brake tool it makes life super easy putting it back together..
P.S. watched my brother put a screwdrive through his thumb putting the top springs in once.. good times
I'll try it first............
Thanks, Yes I have plenty of those from my FIL.................yes.. after you take out the 2 big springs at the top you can pretty much just pull them apart.. you don't need to relax the adjuster, can just spread the bottom first and take it out.. then the top will spread plenty. If you have a brake tool it makes life super easy putting it back together..
P.S. watched my brother put a screwdrive through his thumb putting the top springs in once.. good times
View attachment 1716399297
Already have 2 new ones on the shelf I bought last year, just in case....................
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
What size bottles?
Depends a bit on the Master Cyl in question. My suggestion is to buy the large bottles when doing a master cyl. because probably going to end up bleeding the whole system. But the drum brake masters don't have very big reseviours and brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, so really don't want open bottles sitting on the shelf for months or years. So in that situation it might be two smaller bottles and maybe have a third in reserve that can sit on the shelf till needed.
PS. I bleed the brakes spring or early summer every year when possible.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
btw.. not sure how much you have done with drums but when you adjust them make them have a tiny bit of drag.. when drums are too loose they like to grab hard and try to lock rather than be smooth.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
What size bottles?
Depends a bit on the Master Cyl in question. My suggestion is to buy the large bottles when doing a master cyl. because probably going to end up bleeding the whole system. But the drum brake masters don't have very big reseviours and brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, so really don't want open bottles sitting on the shelf for months or years. So in that situation it might be two smaller bottles and maybe have a third in reserve that can sit on the shelf till needed.
PS. I bleed the brakes spring or early summer every year when possible.
You are a mad man
I bleed brakes once then never think bout it again.. i also so far put 50 miles a year on my car
Thanks, I have a bottle or 2 of the 12 oz. I think. I will pick up some extra today.What size bottles?
Depends a bit on the Master Cyl in question. My suggestion is to buy the large bottles when doing a master cyl. because probably going to end up bleeding the whole system. But the drum brake masters don't have very big reseviours and brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, so really don't want open bottles sitting on the shelf for months or years. So in that situation it might be two smaller bottles and maybe have a third in reserve that can sit on the shelf till needed.
PS. I bleed the brakes spring or early summer every year when possible.
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
Was it the same type of brake system as on your car?
There's two flavors of bendix action that mopar used later 60s - 70s but there are other designs of drum brake systems out there.
Not a lot, I replaced them all last year with all new parts, and they were working well. Even though all new wheel cylinders, as you guys have said, even brand new, can go bad these days.............
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